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If you are using a later style valve body wit a 3 pin switch. The center pin goes to the ground pin on the relay to allow crank in N & P only. The 2 outer pins are for reverse lights. One is key on power, the other goes to the lights. In your case the factory revese wiring is at the shifter. So...
Its all the same circuit. So the relay to battery wire needs to be the same gauge as the alternator to relay wire. If you leave circuit A1 B still intact the fusible link still is feeding the dash
Slot the hole where the advance unit sets on the plate. That way when the arm starts it's travel it won't move the plate until the end of the slot contacts the pin.
Doug
With the original design I don't think the worry was a ground of tis circuit in the engine compartment as much as the possibility under the dash. Thus the factory fuseable link location. Always best to protect at the source of potential.
Doug
Many current production cars have no method of fusing the alternator hot side. Easy enough to do with a Mega fuse. Agreed the method shown won't allow the amp gauge to function. The biggest issue with the factory wiring are the bulkhead terminals. The contact becomes corrode or loose. Then yhey...
When using a double plug field one must be grounded. The modern replacements are available with updated internals for the old style regulators. Or just add one circuit and swap to the 71 and up regulator.
Doug
We always run small gaps on boosted stuff. Doesn't hurt anything being small. But it may missfire if it's to large. You better not have more than about 25 degeres total timing and some good fuel with a 906 head at 15psi. Try me I learned the hard way. 3 sets of piston later
Doug
The 5 year warantee is a plus. The reserve capacity of 8 AH is pretty low. It better not have to crank long or run anything with the ignition off. Better have a ggod alternator.
Doug
Easiest way to check is pull one battery cable. Connect any normal probe style test light between the removed cable and the bare battery post. If the lamps lights you have a draw. Be aware if you have a newer stlye radio the retained memory will show a dim illumination draw.
Doug
The new LED stuff is brighter for sure. Heres just one of many avaikabke.
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Doug
First you have to determine if you have a mechanical issue or an electrical issue. You say it drags. What do yo mean by drags? Does is sound strange or just crank slow? As stated in post #4. Does the starter set flush on the trans? Sometimes there is interference at the side of the case at the...
My factory tach in my Challenger required a tach adapter.
What does a MSD tach adapter do?
Doug
If you are using the magnetic pickup input (green and violet wires) to trigger your MSD Ignition, you will need the PN 8920 Tach Adapter. The PN 8920 will correct the operation of most...
The trace looks like it's on a rev limiter. There is no way a fuel issue could be that quick. I'd say you have a distributor or ignition box issue. Though I never discount the idea of a bad ground. In this case I don't think so. Doubt its a coil either. Why? Because it's rpm triggered. One other...
Ignition 1 powers thru the dark blue wire. It runs from the igntion switch to the input side of the ballast resistor. Then thru the ballast resistor iself to the coil. My bet is the ballast resistor has failed. Ignition 2 is a brown wire from the ignition switch that attaches on the output side...
Nothing the matter with a factory distributor. They look as stock as it gets. If it's points you can convert to Petronix. Trigger with a good factory style box, not China.
Doug