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We always run small gaps on boosted stuff. Doesn't hurt anything being small. But it may missfire if it's to large. You better not have more than about 25 degeres total timing and some good fuel with a 906 head at 15psi. Try me I learned the hard way. 3 sets of piston later Doug

The 5 year warantee is a plus. The reserve capacity of 8 AH is pretty low. It better not have to crank long or run anything with the ignition off. Better have a ggod alternator. Doug

Easiest way to check is pull one battery cable. Connect any normal probe style test light between the removed cable and the bare battery post. If the lamps lights you have a draw. Be aware if you have a newer stlye radio the retained memory will show a dim illumination draw. Doug

The new LED stuff is brighter for sure. Heres just one of many avaikabke. https://www.amazon.com/AutoTroant-T10-194-168-Instrument/dp/B09VTDDJTJ/ref=sxin_15_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.97527784-1102-40e6-925d-b9 Doug

First you have to determine if you have a mechanical issue or an electrical issue. You say it drags. What do yo mean by drags? Does is sound strange or just crank slow? As stated in post #4. Does the starter set flush on the trans? Sometimes there is interference at the side of the case at the...

My factory tach in my Challenger required a tach adapter. What does a MSD tach adapter do? Doug If you are using the magnetic pickup input (green and violet wires) to trigger your MSD Ignition, you will need the PN 8920 Tach Adapter. The PN 8920 will correct the operation of most...

The trace looks like it's on a rev limiter. There is no way a fuel issue could be that quick. I'd say you have a distributor or ignition box issue. Though I never discount the idea of a bad ground. In this case I don't think so. Doubt its a coil either. Why? Because it's rpm triggered. One other...

Unplug the switch. If they go off, its a bad switch. If they stay on you have a a short to power. Doug

Ignition 1 powers thru the dark blue wire. It runs from the igntion switch to the input side of the ballast resistor. Then thru the ballast resistor iself to the coil. My bet is the ballast resistor has failed. Ignition 2 is a brown wire from the ignition switch that attaches on the output side...

Nothing the matter with a factory distributor. They look as stock as it gets. If it's points you can convert to Petronix. Trigger with a good factory style box, not China. Doug

Here you go. At the ballast where the S terminal is connected has a brown and a blue wire. The R terminal has a single blue wire. To wire a Mopar box the blue/yellow wire from the box goes to the R terminal. The ballast resistor should measure .5 ohm when disconected. Doug

The regulator checks voltage on the "I" feed. It bases that voltage against it's own ground. If there is a discrepency in either circuit the regulator sees an incorrect voltage. It then send field current to the alternator based on that voltage. It's not rocket science. But it can be frustrating...

When I started at a dealership early in my carrer a leason was learned. It was a simple tail light inop. I checked for voltage which was normal. Checked resistance to ground normal. Swapped the bulb. It still didn't work. The guy next to me came and showed me you have to load the circuit to...

Continuity doesn't check the circuit for integrity under load. To do that you need to do a voltage drop test. Set the meter set to DC volts. One end directy to the negative battery post. The other end to the ground you wish to test. Such as the regultor itself (not the mounting bolt). Then watch...

The ignition switch has 2 feeds. One feeds in ignition on. Usually a blue wire. It feeds to the ignition key side of the ballast. It goes dead during crank. The second feed is hot in crank only. Dead in run. It is usally brown and bypasses the ballast to the coil +. It can be attached to the...

I bypassed the terminals in my Challengers firewall bulkhead. Just pulled the terminals and ran a solid piece of wire through. All the other wiring is factory. Been running a 110 amp alternator for 18 years. Doug

Assuming the cables and terminals are clean. The main negative cable is clean and tight at both ends. And the battery shows over 12 volts under load (key on). I'd suspect the buckhead connector. Doug

The feed for those lamps is hot all the time, pink wires. There are 3 ground circuits that operate them. The two door pins switches. And a ground at the headlamp switch. The color of the ground wires is yellow. If the tab of the door switch touches the body they will stay on. If the yellow wire...

The relay has to be grounded as well. The soldered corner grounds the primary winding of the relay that is powered up by the yellow wire. This is in manual trans set-up only. For an automatic that section of the relay would have a insulated tab. The tab would connect to the neutral safety...

I'm assuming it isn't grinding? Just spinning? I'm also assuming factory style wiring and starter? It should have a positive battery cable that is hot at all times to the large stud. Key power actives 12 volts at the small stud. If this is all true, in my mind the issue is internal to the...