miller
Well-Known Member
Wanna know when MASS production starts????
1964 Rusty Bucket transformation
- Thread starter Crumley
- Start date
Crumley
Well-Known Member
Gents, thank you for the complements.
I didn't spend much time in the shop this weekend. Back in June I had about an 1 acre of land cleared. We finally got some rain and our burn ban was lifted. So I had an opportunity to burn 1 of 3 big piles of tree tops and root balls....Here is a little build update from today.
Removed the rusted front and rear window trim clips. Due to their being so rusty, they couldn't be removed with a Phillips head screw driver. So they where ground down flush and using a small center punch and small ball peen hammer they where knocked out. Pictures:
A small $13.00 siphon feed paint gun was purchased from the el cheapo tool store to apply POR 15. The POR 15 was applied inside the doors, inside roof panel, the top of the front shock/A-arm bracket and the under side of the Dutchman panel. Pictures:
I didn't spend much time in the shop this weekend. Back in June I had about an 1 acre of land cleared. We finally got some rain and our burn ban was lifted. So I had an opportunity to burn 1 of 3 big piles of tree tops and root balls....Here is a little build update from today.
Removed the rusted front and rear window trim clips. Due to their being so rusty, they couldn't be removed with a Phillips head screw driver. So they where ground down flush and using a small center punch and small ball peen hammer they where knocked out. Pictures:
A small $13.00 siphon feed paint gun was purchased from the el cheapo tool store to apply POR 15. The POR 15 was applied inside the doors, inside roof panel, the top of the front shock/A-arm bracket and the under side of the Dutchman panel. Pictures:
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Way more protection than the factory did, huh?
Glenwood
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Crumley
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Gents: Correct, lots more protection the what came from the factory. For those that don't know, POR 15 can be shot straight from the can to the gun. It doesn't need to be thinned with anything. Just wear a respirator when spraying this stuff. It is quiet nasty to breath. As far as the small paint gun is concerned it was $13.00 bucks. After cleaning if it doesn't want to spray, then it will get trashed.
Nothing got done, work wise, on the car this weekend. But that doesn't say that progress wasn't made.
I purchased a new TIG welding outfit. I can now weld any type of metal that is weldable. Christmas present to me....lol. Picture:
I also picked up these this weekend. The price was so good I couldn't pass them up.
I was told that this is a 383 magnum from the late 60's. It must to have had a remote oil filter? There is an adapter where the oil filter goes.
The 727 transmission that came from the factory with the above 383 magnum and a 70's 440 that came out of a truck?
So, I guess you could say it was a productive weekend.......lol. Now to decide which engine to build and run in the Belvedere. Decisions, Decisions........
Nothing got done, work wise, on the car this weekend. But that doesn't say that progress wasn't made.
I purchased a new TIG welding outfit. I can now weld any type of metal that is weldable. Christmas present to me....lol. Picture:
I also picked up these this weekend. The price was so good I couldn't pass them up.
I was told that this is a 383 magnum from the late 60's. It must to have had a remote oil filter? There is an adapter where the oil filter goes.
The 727 transmission that came from the factory with the above 383 magnum and a 70's 440 that came out of a truck?
So, I guess you could say it was a productive weekend.......lol. Now to decide which engine to build and run in the Belvedere. Decisions, Decisions........
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Superfreak
Well-Known Member
440 with maybe a little stroke.
Crumley, haven't been keeping up with you but I see that you're doing some very nice work! Those tubs turned out real nice as well as the spring relocation. Keep up the great work!!
Crumley
Well-Known Member
Gents, sorry for not posting updates but I have been busy doing yard work and playing with the new welding machine.
I did get out to the shop today. I modified a utility cart so the new welding machine can be moved around, plus it gets it off my fab table.
Superfreak, the current plan is a stroked 440.
A little up date, the paint has been stripped off the inside of the doors. Pictures:
I flipped them over and POR15'd the upper inner edge of the doors and any where that the spray gun missed.
The rear end was pulled out from under the fab table and process of cleaning all of the years of grime has begun. The first area cleaned was the serial numbers. Picture:
As you can see by the picture it is a 742 rear end. Being that this is a 64, I figured that it would be a 741? I reckon it was replaced sometime in the past. The rear will the completely cleaned and taken apart. It will be narrowed from the current 59 1/2" to approximately 53 1/2". I am going to try and tackle the narrowing myself.
I did get out to the shop today. I modified a utility cart so the new welding machine can be moved around, plus it gets it off my fab table.
Superfreak, the current plan is a stroked 440.
A little up date, the paint has been stripped off the inside of the doors. Pictures:
I flipped them over and POR15'd the upper inner edge of the doors and any where that the spray gun missed.
The rear end was pulled out from under the fab table and process of cleaning all of the years of grime has begun. The first area cleaned was the serial numbers. Picture:
As you can see by the picture it is a 742 rear end. Being that this is a 64, I figured that it would be a 741? I reckon it was replaced sometime in the past. The rear will the completely cleaned and taken apart. It will be narrowed from the current 59 1/2" to approximately 53 1/2". I am going to try and tackle the narrowing myself.
Glenwood
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You sure do a nice cleanup job on those doors. I never thought of using beer lol.
Look forward to seeing what you do with the axle narrowing.
Look forward to seeing what you do with the axle narrowing.
Crumley
Well-Known Member
Glenwood, beer works great when it comes to doing no brainer parts cleaning....lol. Make parts cleaning much more enjoyable.....
The rear end has been disassembled and cleaned. Picture:
After cleaning all of the crud off, the factory made some bird **** welds where the pumpkin housing meets in the center. Picture:
Both the top and bottom welds looks like bird ****. These will get ground out and re welded.
After the cleaning. The rear end was transferred to the fab table. It was set on adjustable jack stands and leveled. The spring perch angles where checked with a protractor/ angle finder. The flange face for the pumpkin and axle flanges where check plumb and squareness. They are plumb and square. Picture:
I will need to come up with a way to lock everything down before fabricating. My current plan is to get 2) 3" stand off brackets and weld all thread rod to the fab table and clamp the rear end into the stand off brackets.....this may change.
I did some preliminary laying out of the new spring perch location. That is about as far as I got today...it is beer thirty....
The rear end has been disassembled and cleaned. Picture:
After cleaning all of the crud off, the factory made some bird **** welds where the pumpkin housing meets in the center. Picture:
Both the top and bottom welds looks like bird ****. These will get ground out and re welded.
After the cleaning. The rear end was transferred to the fab table. It was set on adjustable jack stands and leveled. The spring perch angles where checked with a protractor/ angle finder. The flange face for the pumpkin and axle flanges where check plumb and squareness. They are plumb and square. Picture:
I will need to come up with a way to lock everything down before fabricating. My current plan is to get 2) 3" stand off brackets and weld all thread rod to the fab table and clamp the rear end into the stand off brackets.....this may change.
I did some preliminary laying out of the new spring perch location. That is about as far as I got today...it is beer thirty....
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Crumley
Well-Known Member
Another update. The process of narrowing the rear end has begun. The pumpkin mounting face was leveled and a protractor was place on the spring perch. The spring perch was 5* off compared to the pumpkin surface. The 5* angle is rotating the pinion up. Then the spring perches where cut off using a plasma cutter. Then the excess metal ground down flush with the axle housing. Pictures:
I then laid out the spring perch new location and the final cut location. The new spring perches came from US Car Tool. The spring perch was tacked into position 5* tilting the pinion up.
The black line is the final cut point. The opposite side was done in this same manor.
While cutting the old spring perch off, you can see where the u bolt has distorted the axle housing. Picture:
I hope this doesn't cause issues? The opposite side spring perch tacked in place. Picture:
If you look at the center of the axle housing the factory bird **** welds have been repaired. Both top and bottom welds where bevel ground and re welded.
Now we are at the point of no return. My plan was to use the original axle ends. So the 1st cut made was on the axles larger end section. I made the cut here thinking that it was a socket that slipped over the axle housing.......WRONG, and I have cut both ends......This isn't a socket end...Now the re-fabrication will be harder to do, due to the different OD of the axle end and the axle housing. The axle end is 5/16" larger the the axle housing. So now I will need to lay out the axle end with a 5/32" lip around the circumference of the axle end and the axle housing.......oh the joy. What a big pain in the rear end this is going to be. If I do another axle narrowing, the axle housing will get cut. It is easier to fit pipe size to pipe size.
The process of installing the axle end was started, but the wife came home from work and that signals the time to stop and have adult beverages..........Lets see if I can dig a deeper hole....lol. Up dates to come.
I then laid out the spring perch new location and the final cut location. The new spring perches came from US Car Tool. The spring perch was tacked into position 5* tilting the pinion up.
The black line is the final cut point. The opposite side was done in this same manor.
While cutting the old spring perch off, you can see where the u bolt has distorted the axle housing. Picture:
I hope this doesn't cause issues? The opposite side spring perch tacked in place. Picture:
If you look at the center of the axle housing the factory bird **** welds have been repaired. Both top and bottom welds where bevel ground and re welded.
Now we are at the point of no return. My plan was to use the original axle ends. So the 1st cut made was on the axles larger end section. I made the cut here thinking that it was a socket that slipped over the axle housing.......WRONG, and I have cut both ends......This isn't a socket end...Now the re-fabrication will be harder to do, due to the different OD of the axle end and the axle housing. The axle end is 5/16" larger the the axle housing. So now I will need to lay out the axle end with a 5/32" lip around the circumference of the axle end and the axle housing.......oh the joy. What a big pain in the rear end this is going to be. If I do another axle narrowing, the axle housing will get cut. It is easier to fit pipe size to pipe size.
The process of installing the axle end was started, but the wife came home from work and that signals the time to stop and have adult beverages..........Lets see if I can dig a deeper hole....lol. Up dates to come.
Glenwood
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looks like quite a job Crumley!
Here's a link to a thread where Larry (67Khanvertible) and 747Mopar (I think his name is Devin) narrowed an 8-3/4. Around post #1113.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...-scientist-build.58257/page-56#post-910106058
Here's a link to a thread where Larry (67Khanvertible) and 747Mopar (I think his name is Devin) narrowed an 8-3/4. Around post #1113.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...-scientist-build.58257/page-56#post-910106058
Crumley
Well-Known Member
Glenwood, thank you for the link. I was reviewed for helpful ideas.
A little update from today. The axle ends are tacked into position. They are plumb, square and centered on the axle housing. They will not get welded until we know that the axles will slide into and out of the carrier. It ended up being 53 7/8" axle flange to axle flange. I didn't take out enough for the axle ends plus two weld gaps made it 3/8" long. So the rear will be 3/16" wider on each side. I think I can live with that. Pictures:
A little update from today. The axle ends are tacked into position. They are plumb, square and centered on the axle housing. They will not get welded until we know that the axles will slide into and out of the carrier. It ended up being 53 7/8" axle flange to axle flange. I didn't take out enough for the axle ends plus two weld gaps made it 3/8" long. So the rear will be 3/16" wider on each side. I think I can live with that. Pictures:
Homstead
Well-Known Member
Your not using a mandrel to locate the ends?
Crumley
Well-Known Member
Homstead, currently no I didn't use a mandrel. The axle ends where centered on the housing end. They have been squared and plumed to the carrier flange. But after your question and re reading the link from glenwood. Especially the section concerning the (LH) drivers side axle housing getting torqued out of square from use and abuse.
This axle housing has a lot of distortion on the LH side, where the u bolts clamps the springs to the housing. It is looking like an alignment tool is in my future.
This axle housing has a lot of distortion on the LH side, where the u bolts clamps the springs to the housing. It is looking like an alignment tool is in my future.
Great looking work on the mini-tubs . . . and I remember narrowing the rear end on my car too . . . looks good . . .
Here's what we used ( 747Mopar made this to help out ) - worked awesome . . .
Run that bar through the bushings in the pumpkin - and make sure the ends are true ( driver side was bent about 1/4-3/8" )
The bar sticking up was used to spin and make sure the ends were still true
( All the gory details are on page 56 of my Build )
Here's what we used ( 747Mopar made this to help out ) - worked awesome . . .
Run that bar through the bushings in the pumpkin - and make sure the ends are true ( driver side was bent about 1/4-3/8" )
The bar sticking up was used to spin and make sure the ends were still true
( All the gory details are on page 56 of my Build )
Crumley
Well-Known Member
Conv67, thank you for the input. I reviewed your build, it is excellent information. The LH rear axle housing on my build is very distorted where the u bolts clamps over the top of the axle housing. So when the money is available an alignment tool is in my future. The rear end will be set to the side for now.
I haven't been posting much lately due to work and a big honey do list......lol. But, I get out to the shop every chance I can. With that said.
Due to the welding around the lower back window. Shrinkage has occurred on the dutch man panel. It looked like a wash board. I used hammer on dolly trying to streach the metal back out as much as possible. All metal has been applied where the factory lead was and along dutch man panel to help flatten it out. All metal was also applied to the cowl. I have been knocking the high points in the all metal down with a file and then, using 38 grit sand paper to get the surface flat. I will then use 80 grit sand paper before epoxy priming. Pictures:
I haven't been posting much lately due to work and a big honey do list......lol. But, I get out to the shop every chance I can. With that said.
Due to the welding around the lower back window. Shrinkage has occurred on the dutch man panel. It looked like a wash board. I used hammer on dolly trying to streach the metal back out as much as possible. All metal has been applied where the factory lead was and along dutch man panel to help flatten it out. All metal was also applied to the cowl. I have been knocking the high points in the all metal down with a file and then, using 38 grit sand paper to get the surface flat. I will then use 80 grit sand paper before epoxy priming. Pictures:
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miller
Well-Known Member
Probably too late now.
But, years ago, rebuilding my son's 69 Charger, trunk lid looked like someone had a dance on top! Of course, had the double skin issue. Dents were fairly large (6-12"), that I needed to straighten. Hate bondo!
I used a propane torch, to heat up the dent...then (literally) a cold wet towel. That will actually shrink the metal, tightening it, pulling out the dent. Had to do that to several dents, some 2-3 times. Only had to do a light bondo wipe to finish.
But, years ago, rebuilding my son's 69 Charger, trunk lid looked like someone had a dance on top! Of course, had the double skin issue. Dents were fairly large (6-12"), that I needed to straighten. Hate bondo!
I used a propane torch, to heat up the dent...then (literally) a cold wet towel. That will actually shrink the metal, tightening it, pulling out the dent. Had to do that to several dents, some 2-3 times. Only had to do a light bondo wipe to finish.
Crumley
Well-Known Member
Miller, I am right there with you when it comes to to much body filler. Next time the ripple issue comes up I am going to try the torch and quench method. I ran into this same issue when I restored the blue truck in my avatar.
Could you elaborate on the process used to flatten out the panel using a torch?
Like the amount of heat?
Was size propane torch was used to apply heat?
Size of heated area?
Color of the heated area before quenching?
Where in the sunk in or raised up area is the heat applied?
How much of the area is heat applied to?
I grasp the concept of the propane torch and quenching. It is done in the pipe fitting field to straighten a length of pipe after welding thread-o-lets along one side. Using a oxy-acet. rose bud, diamond shape heat is placed on the opposite side of the thread-o-lets, it is heated until orange and then quenched with water. This will cause the pipe to pull the opposite way.
I am not a body man by any measure (green as a gourd) so here is a question for anyone out there.
When welding any metal no matter how thick, it will shrink due to the welding process, pulling the metal towards the weld.
On thin metal panels, I would assume you would use hammer on dolly along the weld seam to stretch the metal back into position?
Is it possible the panel has stretched? Causing the high and low spots.
I figured it has shrunk due to the repairs at the lower window?
Wouldn't it shrink more with the addition of heat?
Or could heat be applied to the opposite side of the weld and quenched? Pulling the metal back into position, that's if you can get to the back side of the weld.
Another question, If the panel has oil canned, how can a person tell if a panel has shrunk or stretched causing the oil canning?
Sorry for all of the questions.
Maybe I need to go lurk around on the metalmeet web site.
I am headed out to the shop.
Could you elaborate on the process used to flatten out the panel using a torch?
Like the amount of heat?
Was size propane torch was used to apply heat?
Size of heated area?
Color of the heated area before quenching?
Where in the sunk in or raised up area is the heat applied?
How much of the area is heat applied to?
I grasp the concept of the propane torch and quenching. It is done in the pipe fitting field to straighten a length of pipe after welding thread-o-lets along one side. Using a oxy-acet. rose bud, diamond shape heat is placed on the opposite side of the thread-o-lets, it is heated until orange and then quenched with water. This will cause the pipe to pull the opposite way.
I am not a body man by any measure (green as a gourd) so here is a question for anyone out there.
When welding any metal no matter how thick, it will shrink due to the welding process, pulling the metal towards the weld.
On thin metal panels, I would assume you would use hammer on dolly along the weld seam to stretch the metal back into position?
Is it possible the panel has stretched? Causing the high and low spots.
I figured it has shrunk due to the repairs at the lower window?
Wouldn't it shrink more with the addition of heat?
Or could heat be applied to the opposite side of the weld and quenched? Pulling the metal back into position, that's if you can get to the back side of the weld.
Another question, If the panel has oil canned, how can a person tell if a panel has shrunk or stretched causing the oil canning?
Sorry for all of the questions.
Maybe I need to go lurk around on the metalmeet web site.
I am headed out to the shop.
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