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1964 Rusty Bucket transformation

Could you elaborate on the process used to flatten out the panel using a torch?
Glad to, Crumley. Though not, per say, any kind of bodyman. Just do what I have to.

Just describing how I did that trunk lid, will probably answer most of your questions, I hope. And, I'll add, I've only done this on larger flat areas, on shallow, but fairly large dents. If they'd quit dancing on the things, wouldn't be needed!

Only flame/heat I had was a propane torch, and used the biggest tip I had. As I'm guessing you already know, all a dent is, equals stretched metal. Even if being able to get to both sides of the dent, using a hammer/dolly on it, to get the dent out, you are shrinking the metal back into place. Same effect using heat/quench, that 'shocks' the molecules back into place. Maybe not like new...but better than it was.

Of course, I wanted the 'whole' dent out, so working a circle pattern around the entire dent, with the flame as hot as possible, heat up the entire surface of the dent, and as evenly as possible. Just to an even orange glow, out to the edges. If it gets too hot, it can, and will sag, making it worst.
Once it's hot enough, 'quickly' gets quenched, using a folded cold wet towel. Not dripping wet, but good and damp...and cold as possible.
I would let the towel sit, until the metal was completely cooled. That's when it shrinks, and tightens up. Most of the time it will pull the dent out. Some can take a few times.

Kinda like how some have pulled hail dents out, but using dry ice...same effect.
If you have any ?s on it, shoot 'em out.
 
Better toss in, that I took the paint off, to bare metal, in the areas I did that to.
 
Glenwood and miller thank you for the input. I have tried the suggestions given. So here is where I am at. The RH door has had some damage in the past. It was repaired using the old style dent puller that required drilling a hole and pulling the dent out. Then applying body filler. The door has an oil can. The smaller circle is the approximate center of the oil can. The bigger circle is the approximate outer edge of the oil can. The star between the two holes, if a finger is put on that star the oil can will hold its position. I have not tried to tackle this problem yet. Picture:
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The door after sanding with 36grit paper. You can see where the repairs have been made in the past.

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More 36 grit sanding.
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The heavy black circle towards the top of the door is where heat will be applied to get the small indention to pull back out by shrinking the metal.
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More 36 grit sanding. When the heat was applied to the upper indention another indention appeared just as the area was getting orange. Now there are 3 low areas. I don't know if this is correct or not? Now instead of having one shallow indention, there are 3 smaller shallow indention's in the same area.
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More 36 grit sanding and you can see in the above photo the 3 lower areas. The center was where the heat was applied.
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Another view of the same door after more 36 grit sanding. The area heated is between the 4th and 5th side molding holes.
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A close up of the heated area after more 36 grit sanding. I also used hammer directly on a low crown dolly to try and do some additional stretching. The hammer marks can be seen in the metal.

Currently, I am a little paranoid about applying additional heat? I am concerned that I will make a bigger problem. I am open to any suggestions from those that have been that and done that.
Thanks,
Crumley
 
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Currently, I am a little paranoid about applying additional heat?
Yes, sir. Using heat on that stuff is a hand over fist thing. Some places it will work, some can make worse. Might have used a bit too much heat, too. Easier on the metal, if a lower heat is applied more times. Need to keep in mind, it's possible to 'work harden' the steel, making it less pliable, hard...what you don't want.
If it gets too bad, but at your own risk, heat it up, and let it cool back down on it's own. That takes the temper out of it...makes it softer...per say.

Though, I'll toss in, if there is ANY way to use a dolly on the back side, I prefer that way. It's alot easier to control hammer blows, than heat/quench, that takes some luck. It only works okay in 'some' places.

That door does have a couple years on it, huh?
 
You can shrink a small dent like that, dolly on back side, and 'light' hammer blows, letting the dolly back-slap it. Done that a few times.

Just noticed something on the heated spots, might comment on. Heat looks like it was too small an area, too concentrated at one small spot. Think keeping the heat moving, to cover the entire dent, as even as possible, before quenching.
But, a dent like that is best hammered out. Even the three tiny dents I see in the door.
 
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Miller, thank you for the replies. You are correct it is the LH door, apparently I don't know my left from right...Lol.
I will try your suggestions.
I haven't done much on the car these last few weeks. The wife and I have been busy looking at lake property to retire on. I will try the get back on the car.
 
You sir have some mad metal fab and welding skills. What a heck of a project! Man the hours spent is unbelievable...

64 one of my favorite body styles and trim....Great work my friend.....
 
Gents, thank you for the input and encouragement.
Update for the ol rusty bucket. Lately, It seems that I have been doing everything but working on the 64. Well, I finally had time to do some epoxy priming under the car. I wasn't looking forward to crawling around on my back shooting primer. To make it a little easier, the car was raised high enough to actually see while priming. It was raised using a gantry crane in front and pipe jack stands where place under the car. The rear was raised with the same gantry crane and jack stands placed under the car. The gantry was left in place along with the rigging for additional safety measures. Pictures:
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Looks great! Yes,sir, I shot my entire body with two-part epoxy primer, too. Just hope it holds up like it's supposed to.
 
Nice work Ken. Did you get stuck to the floor from the overspray? I've been behind on my car too with other stuff going on. Getting back at it soon.
 
Thank you Gents,

Miller, correct, lets hope it holds up like advertised.....if it is like most things now days it won't.

Hello there Carl, yes I did get stuck to everything...especially the tarps on the floor. Sweated my rear end off in a Tyvex suit to.

I have been waiting for a low humidity day to shoot paint on the underside of the car.....lol.....wait, I live in the south eastern united states....there are no low humidity days.....
So the underside of the car got painted today....pictures:
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I will not do that again without a rotisserie. It is hard to paint with over spray blowing back in your face. You can't see what needs to be painted.
 
That is looking good. I didn't have the nuts to strip and paint my undercarriage. You guys who do deserve a medal!
 
Aw, come on...you, and Crumley, are havin' so much fun, you can't stand it!!
 
Crumley your work is inspiring. Keep up the good work. I like seeing your explanations and methods. I'm also glad to to see the constructive input from others as well. That is what it is all about.
 
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