Ok, blast from the past here, but a bit of an update:
First off, poor Barnfind is still waiting on me to finish a 3D printed, C-body tach. My apologies to him. It's one of quite a few hobby-oriented projects I've been doing for friends, and it's one of those that takes quite a bit of time and concentration in Blender to get it right - ideally, I don't want to find out that I screwed up the first one to be printed.
In other news (full story @
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...-fat-engine-swap.96118/page-12#post-910995038 ), I tried to get my factory original tach going with an RTE board. The RTE board works like a champ, but the needle on the original unit is a royal PITA - I don't know why anyone likes them other than for originality. The needle runs smooth by hand, and I've adjusted the springs and the jewel screw so the ring runs absolutely perfectly, and I'm having no luck.
Now as much as I'd like to have an original, I
really don't want another thing on this car with intermittent quirks - and since I went through all the trouble of designing 3D printed replica ages ago (and since the little Chinesium $12 tach worked perfectly), I'm going to get one more printed for myself - though I'm going to update the plate by deleting the mounting screw holes. I'm going to add a centering stud to the back instead so it can be glued to the cheapo tach. I'll also offer this as a variation on Shapeways for those who like the idea of this.
In other news - I added a pair of quick-disconnect weatherpack connectors for the voltmeter (I converted it - no high amps going through here) and the tach, when complete. I don't know why on earth I didn't think of this in the first place, since disconnecting the voltmeter is such a major pain in the butt every time the instrument cluster is pulled. This should make installation a breeze!
-Kurt
