1971 charger SE Thrust Blocks/ green bearings?

[Rikker]

1971 Charger SE 383. I have looked through past threads but can not find the exact answer I need. I read about other years about thread buttons and blocks, but could not find my year. Some stated to use a magnet, but did not describe the process. Is there anyone who has done a disk brake conversion using green bearings. I was told not to forget to remove the Thrust Blocks or the new green bearing will preload and break. Where are the thrust blocks located in my year(1971) and how hard is it to remove them. For a fist timer in this area of removing thrust blocks could someone please describe the process?
Thanks,
Rick

 

[moes]

just did this over the summer, I never removed the thrust button (I was told the button can remain intact if you are using a stock housing, stock axles and stock brakes). Just installed the axles with the green bearings (lube the o rings and splines). I bought mine from Doctor Diff. Email or call them to check if you have to remove them when rear discs are being installed. I talked to Cass

 

[brian6pac]

The thrust button is inside the diff, the two axles butt up against it that is how you adjust the preload on the tapered bearings, what I do is put one axle in all the way with no nuts slide the other axle in and tap it lightly and if the other side moves out the the thrust button needs to be removed.

 

[Rikker]

just did this over the summer, I never removed the thrust button (I was told the button can remain intact if you are using a stock housing, stock axles and stock brakes). Just installed the axles with the green bearings (lube the o rings and splines). I bought mine from Doctor Diff. Email or call them to check if you have to remove them when rear discs are being installed. I talked to Cass

Actually i ordered the green bearings from DocDif and Cass mentioned in her email to remember to remove the thrust blocker. Class said they need to be removed with Wilwood brakes. I just do not know how to locate and remove them.

 

[Rikker]

The thrust button is inside the diff, the two axles butt up against it that is how you adjust the preload on the tapered bearings, what I do is put one axle in all the way with no nuts slide the other axle in and tap it lightly and if the other side moves out the the thrust button needs to be removed.

If it moves how do I go about removing it? Is it a simple removal or does the whole diff have to come apart. I seen in some threads one person said grab it with a magnet, but that was on a different model vehicle.

 

[Darthomas]

I thought the thrust block was captive in the pig until you remove the spider gear shaft, where it can drift both ways on the shaft.

 

[brian6pac]

good luck I have never seen any one get it out with a magnet, it's 2 half's

held together with a rivet that has the end peened over. I have seen 1 that had a roll pin through the center

 

[brian6pac]

have no idea what happened on this post?

 

[nstyle73]

The two thrust blocks that I have removed had roll pins in the center that you just knock out. I believe this was because they were both the same type of sure grip. (Don't recall which) An open diff is different as is one type of sure grip. I found this info on this site, so look around. If you can look all the way through the carrier, it has already been removed.

 

[Rikker]

I learned that in order to remove the thrust blocks in my 1971 charger 8.75 rear end it all have to be taken completely taken apart. However, Dr. Dif sells a kit for $35.00 that take up that extra space and then you do not have to remove the thrust block. I even went the extra mile and purchased new axles with the green bearings on them because what Wilwood does not tell you is their brakes will not fit flush completely on the stock wheel studs due to the stock studs have a 5/8" tail which will cause you to drill out the new brake stud holes to that width to have them sit flush. The new axles have screw in studs that do not widen out at their ends. Glad I found that out before I was fully into the tear down.

 

[Rikker]

The two thrust blocks that I have removed had roll pins in the center that you just knock out. I believe this was because they were both the same type of sure grip. (Don't recall which) An open diff is different as is one type of sure grip. I found this info on this site, so look around. If you can look all the way through the carrier, it has already been removed.

I learned that in order to remove the thrust blocks in my 1971 charger 8.75 rear end it all have to be taken completely taken apart. However, Dr. Dif sells a kit for $35.00 that take up that extra space and then you do not have to remove the thrust block. I even went the extra mile and purchased new axles with the green bearings on them because what Wilwood does not tell you is their brakes will not fit flush completely on the stock wheel studs due to the stock studs have a 5/8" tail which will cause you to drill out the new brake stud holes to that width to have them sit flush. The new axles have screw in studs that do not widen out at their ends. Glad I found that out before I was fully into the tear down.

 

[Rikker]

The thrust button is inside the diff, the two axles butt up against it that is how you adjust the preload on the tapered bearings, what I do is put one axle in all the way with no nuts slide the other axle in and tap it lightly and if the other side moves out the the thrust button needs to be removed.

I learned that in order to remove the thrust blocks in my 1971 charger 8.75 rear end it all have to be taken completely taken apart. However, Dr. Dif sells a kit for $35.00 that take up that extra space and then you do not have to remove the thrust block. I even went the extra mile and purchased new axles with the green bearings on them because what Wilwood does not tell you is their brakes will not fit flush completely on the stock wheel studs due to the stock studs have a 5/8" tail which will cause you to drill out the new brake stud holes to that width to have them sit flush. The new axles have screw in studs that do not widen out at their ends. Glad I found that out before I was fully into the tear down.

 

[Rikker]

just did this over the summer, I never removed the thrust button (I was told the button can remain intact if you are using a stock housing, stock axles and stock brakes). Just installed the axles with the green bearings (lube the o rings and splines). I bought mine from Doctor Diff. Email or call them to check if you have to remove them when rear discs are being installed. I talked to Cass

I learned that in order to remove the thrust blocks in my 1971 charger 8.75 rear end it all have to be taken completely taken apart. However, Dr. Dif sells a kit for $35.00 that take up that extra space and then you do not have to remove the thrust block. I even went the extra mile and purchased new axles with the green bearings on them because what Wilwood does not tell you is their brakes will not fit flush completely on the stock wheel studs due to the stock studs have a 5/8" tail which will cause you to drill out the new brake stud holes to that width to have them sit flush. The new axles have screw in studs that do not widen out at their ends. Glad I found that out before I was fully into the tear down.

 

[Rikker]

Thank you all for the advice.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Ok lets see... are we talking about sure grip or open diff?

Open diff thrust block is inserted on assembly. Just can be removed with carrier out of the housing, because the block gets a large cilinder bar going throught

CLUTCH KIND thrust block/buttons COULD be removed with the carrier into the housing as mentioned thought will be really tricky

I never have dealt with CONE KIND sure grip, but I think is pretty much similar to the open... doesn't?


Need to note, I think if suregrip from factory, since 70 these were changed from Clutch to Cone, right?

 

[brian6pac]

I was told the the 489 case had the cone clutch, that was 70 and up.
But according to the parts book that does not say that?
Mopar used the parts they had in stock to assemble cars even
if they weren't suppose to be there.

 

[Rikker]

Ok lets see... are we talking about sure grip or open diff?

Open diff thrust block is inserted on assembly. Just can be removed with carrier out of the housing, because the block gets a large cilinder bar going throught

CLUTCH KIND thrust block/buttons COULD be removed with the carrier into the housing as mentioned thought will be really tricky

I never have dealt with CONE KIND sure grip, but I think is pretty much similar to the open... doesn't?


Need to note, I think if suregrip from factory, since 70 these were changed from Clutch to Cone, right?

After talking to DrDif I was told the rear cone had to be dropped and completely disassembled.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Yes, just like the open

 

[brian6pac]

I wouldn't do anything till I put in the axles and you might not have to do anything

 

[Rikker]

After I get to the install in a couple weeks I will update my progress. I hope it goes well, but most likely I will be asking for advice? Thanks again