1971 Satellite with 2004 5.7 Hemi and 545rfe trans

[PappyJoe]

I'm in the mid to later stages of this build. As the title says I'm using a 5.7 Hemi from a 2004 Ram with a 545rfe. I've already ordered my wiring harness from hotwire and they have my ECU for flashing. I have the motor mounts, oil pan, headers, radiator, etc. The suspension is done, brakes are done, fuel system is done, the interior is from a 300S and is coming along, and the panels are going for paint, some are done, looking at the cab going for paint in early April.

I started a thread on here a long time ago for the build but haven't kept it up. I've got plenty of pics and plan to update it as soon as the time is available.

The reason for this post is I'm looking for someone that has done this using this engine and transmission combination to bounce information off of mainly on setting up the wiring. I've searched and found the info needed as items have come up, but it would be nice to have someone that's been there done that to see how they solved different problems. Thanks

 

[Kern Dog]

Send a PM to Darius. He is a member here. He did this swap into a 70 GTX and after some various electrical gremlins, he has been happy. The transmission controls were a problem for him. He had a series of setbacks until he found a solution.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Darius has a nag1 in his...different than the 545rfe.

The harness is plug/play with 5-7 wire that you must hook up. Not a big deal.
What questions do you have?

 

[1967coronet440]

Pictures please

 

[nstyle73]

Sign me up as I have the exact same deal, 04 Ram donor truck, but the 5.7 was swapped for a 6.1 and the computer was re flashed/mapped for the bigger engine. I have not pulled the engine yet, or even looked into the wiring as I still drive the truck for the time being.

 

[PappyJoe]

Darius has a nag1 in his...different than the 545rfe.

The harness is plug/play with 5-7 wire that you must hook up. Not a big deal.
What questions do you have?

Not really sure yet. I'd like to get a handle on how the start switch wires in. Mostly I'm not sure about the mixture of original wire circuit for lights, start, etc and new wire circuit for ECU if that makes sense.

 

[PappyJoe]

Pictures please

Plan to catch up on that as soon as time is available.

 

[PappyJoe]

Darius has a nag1 in his...different than the 545rfe.

The harness is plug/play with 5-7 wire that you must hook up. Not a big deal.
What questions do you have?

Also would like to know how they handled the gas pedal. Right now I'm planning on using the original gas pedal from the car with a bellcrank box as they do in the truck.

 

[5.7 hemi]

You'll need to tie ign.1 and 2 together so you have 12 volts at run and crank.
Throttle is easy, the bellcrank is the way to go and you have that correct.

 

[747mopar]

I'll be watching as I just bought a 72 Satty for the daughter and am considering doing the same although she's talking about a standard.

 

[PappyJoe]

You'll need to tie ign.1 and 2 together so you have 12 volts at run and crank.
Throttle is easy, the bellcrank is the way to go and you have that correct.

Thanks! It's good to know I have a refernce. I'll look at the wiring diagram on the start circuit.

 

[PappyJoe]

Got my wiring harness from hotwire. They do awesome work. Haven't installed yet. I just pulled the heads yesterday, have the parts coming in Monday to rework the heads and put in a hotter cam. And it looks like the body will go in next week for paint. I'll post up as soon as we start the wiring process.

 

[PappyJoe]

I've posted this issue on another thread as well, but thought it might be good to post here. If you're looking at using a bellcrank box and want a new one they are on national back order. One parts guy told me they may discontinue the part. Not gospel but he said it was way past what they needed to support. I found one in a dealer stock. There are probably a lot of them in the junk yards to be had which would probably be fine. I wanted new and ran into this issue.

 

[vracing1]

I'm new to B-Body. I currently have an E-body with a 440. My son and I are building a 65 Coronet for him. We were putting in a 440 but have decided to go with a new hemi. Obviously, this thread has value. We are pretty much starting from scratch. We haven't found a motor or trans yet. Any advice is welcomed. If there are any threads with step by step do's and don'ts, please pass that on. Thanks!

 

[PappyJoe]

I'm new to B-Body. I currently have an E-body with a 440. My son and I are building a 65 Coronet for him. We were putting in a 440 but have decided to go with a new hemi. Obviously, this thread has value. We are pretty much starting from scratch. We haven't found a motor or trans yet. Any advice is welcomed. If there are any threads with step by step do's and don'ts, please pass that on. Thanks!

If I had one piece of advice to give it would be this. When you find the engine, get everything with it. All the front end alternator, A/C, power steering etc. as well as throttle hook ups if it uses bellcrank or if it's built into the pedal, whatever it is get it with the engine. If you can't get it, wait until you find one that you can get with everything. Even if you are planning on using new stuff once it's built, get it anyway. Reason being is one of my biggest headaches is finding the correct bolts for the idlers, tensioner, alternator, etc. This becomes more important the older the engine is. If I had it to do over, that is the one thing I would have definitely done.

 

[Darius]

We re-wired the complete car from scratch. I am not smart enough about the ignition wiring system so I can't tell you how that was done. I do know I had to use a gas pedal from the new car because it is a drive by wire system. I understand MUCH progress has been made in the after market for products to make this swap easier. Chris at Hotwire would be a great resource as he helped me as much as he could given what was known and available at the time (2013). I also have an after market computer for the NAG1. I think the RFE is a bit easier swap but I can't say for sure. I do know my biggest transmission computer issue stemmed from the fact I did NOT use the rear axle assy from the Charger, therefore, I did not have the tone rings and speed sensors to tell the trans what was going on.

 

[PappyJoe]

We re-wired the complete car from scratch. I am not smart enough about the ignition wiring system so I can't tell you how that was done. I do know I had to use a gas pedal from the new car because it is a drive by wire system. I understand MUCH progress has been made in the after market for products to make this swap easier. Chris at Hotwire would be a great resource as he helped me as much as he could given what was known and available at the time (2013). I also have an after market computer for the NAG1. I think the RFE is a bit easier swap but I can't say for sure. I do know my biggest transmission computer issue stemmed from the fact I did NOT use the rear axle assy from the Charger, therefore, I did not have the tone rings and speed sensors to tell the trans what was going on.

The RFE is a little easier as you don't have the rear end stuff to worry with and you can use an aftermarket shifter like the B&M starshifter I used. The first three gears are selectable and 4th and 5th are computer controlled.

 

[PappyJoe]

Thought I'd do a little update while I was here. I have mounted the bell crank box. Since I relocated the battery to the trunk there was room on the front fender wall for it which actually ended up placing it much like they do in the truck. This made mounting relatively easy. Got a 36 inch throttle cable from Lokar and with slight modification it works like a champ so I have a gas pedal now. Just ordered parts from bouchillon for the yoke and misc items needed on the 545rfe. Coming together slowly.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Thanks! It's good to know I have a refernce. I'll look at the wiring diagram on the start circuit.

I too have gone down that road with the Hemi not liking the vintage switch with ignition 1 & 2. From what I understand from Chris at Hotwire, there is a break in the 12V when the switch travels between start and run. I thought that tying 1 & 2 together, it would solve the problem and it did for the most part. However, sometimes it would start and run properly while other times the engine would flutter and act like a plug wire was missing or something. When I posed this issue to Chris, he told me that others have encountered the same problem and to eliminate the starter from the switch by adding a push button to the circuit. I don't understand why but that fixed my problem with the intermittent flutter. I even tried a new ignition switch before giving in to the push button start. I chalked it up to another electrical phenomenon since I've been an electrician for over 40 years and have run into a few of those phenomenon that never made any sense.

 

[PappyJoe]

I too have gone down that road with the Hemi not liking the vintage switch with ignition 1 & 2. From what I understand from Chris at Hotwire, there is a break in the 12V when the switch travels between start and run. I thought that tying 1 & 2 together, it would solve the problem and it did for the most part. However, sometimes it would start and run properly while other times the engine would flutter and act like a plug wire was missing or something. When I posed this issue to Chris, he told me that others have encountered the same problem and to eliminate the starter from the switch by adding a push button to the circuit. I don't understand why but that fixed my problem with the intermittent flutter. I even tried a new ignition switch before giving in to the push button start. I chalked it up to another electrical phenomenon since I've been an electrician for over 40 years and have run into a few of those phenomenon that never made any sense.

I'm planning on using the key only to control ACC power. I've wired in a buss bar for ACC power and Battery power along with a ground bus bar as well. I'm using the ACC to provide run power through a relay and start power through a start button also through a relay. I'm also wiring in a Toggle switch to control ACC. So to start and run I'll need the key on, the toggle switch on, and the push button to start. I should be able to shut it off with either the key or the toggle. At least that's the plan right now. Hope that will minimize any phenomenon problems.