4 speed oil

[69'Net]

PennGrade 1® Classic GL-4 Gear Oil SAE 80W-90 - Gear Lubricants
Any of you guys using this Brad Penn 80w-90 GL-4 gear oil? 4 quarts on Amazon are $29.79. About 1/2 the cost of the Sta-Lube and it looks to be for the exact same application.

I've used Brad penn oils for their high zinc stuff. I didnt know they made trans oil

 

[69'Net]

Try calling the oil companies or do a google search in your area. Synthetic's.have a broader temperature range snd viscosity index. Compare the SSU index. IMO.....stay away from 140 grade too thick to circulate thru the needle bearings.....but its up to you....
BOB RENTON

Where, may I ask? I can’t find straight 140 around here.

It was at oreillys

 

[69'Net]

Try calling the oil companies or do a google search in your area. Synthetic's.have a broader temperature range snd viscosity index. Compare the SSU index. IMO.....stay away from 140 grade too thick to circulate thru the needle bearings.....but its up to you....
BOB RENTON

Thanks, ill probably just end ordering it I guess

 

[hunt2elk]

I've used Brad penn oils for their high zinc stuff. I didnt know they made trans oil

Same here. I think I am going to try their gear oil, they have a good reputation, and the price is surprisingly good compared to anything else I can find.

 

[ynst]

A transmission doesn't need hypoid gear lube like 80w90 etc. because a trans does not receive the shock loads like a R&P receives. But it does work...

According to my dealer experience ('68-'72) 833's came with type B ATF.

Cars run in high temps can use 80w90.

GM Syncromesh fluid is about 50W and is a good all around lube. All GM Syncromesh fluid , regardless of brand, is made by Mobil.

GL5 lubes like to eat yellow metals like blocking rings.

That's strange because when I opened up my 4 speed in '69 to replace a chipped gear (due to a missing thrust washer on the end of the cluster gear -- factory error) the trans was filled with gear lube, not ATF.

I've been running 80-90 lube in there for 56 years and it shifts just fine. It was my daily driver between February 1968 and January 1973 and it gets pretty cold up here in New England in the winter.

The only 4 speed transmissions that I have ever used ATF in were my aluminum overdrive 4 speeds in my various Volare station wagons.

 

[Should be playing golf]

Jamie Passon says no to Synthetics. Best oil to use is SAE 80w90 API GL-4. Summit has Pen Grade Non-Synthetic. (GL-5 eats yellow metals).

 

[R413]

This is what the 1970 service manual says about it.

 

[khryslerkid]

First time I found ATF in the standard transmissions was in 1978 servicing new Dodge vehicles. Stuck my finger in the fill hole and had ATF. Had to check out what was going on. Same year I pulled a differential cover and found no gasket, just silicone sealer.

 

[Krooser]

Every 4 speed I serviced or did a new vehicle prep on here in WI had ATF...'68-'72 @ Mopar dealers.

 

[RJRENTON]

Jamie Passon says no to Synthetics. Best oil to use is SAE 80w90 API GL-4. Summit has Pen Grade Non-Synthetic. (GL-5 eats yellow metals).

What are the "yellow" metals you describe??? If you are referring to "brass" there are 20+ grades of brass plus the silicon bronze alloys that look like brass. And what component of synthetic lubricants are detrimental to "yellow" metal? Just curious.....i've used Mobil One synthetic in my A833 in my GTX RS23V0A****** for 35+ years with ZERO problems......just my opinion of course
BOB RENTON

 

[R413]

Lets dump fuel on the fire. Watch this video. Go to 11:20 for the oil testing. You ATF and synchromesh fans pay attention

 

[Should be playing golf]

The main issue is synthetic vs. Non-synthetic. Viscosity is the optimum oil for use in a particular environment. Are you driving your hot rod to car shows on warm summer days or are you plowing snow in the U.P. with it? Basically just use conventional 140 or 80w90, GL-4 if you can get it. The experts are questioning synthetics due to the fact that they do not break down during use resulting in metal parts taking the effect of wear, whereas conventional oils are sacrificial in that they breakdown first protecting the metal parts they are lubing. Any oil/lubricant chemist will agree to this point. This is why people are told they don't have to change their synthetic motor oil for 10-12K miles. Conventional lubricants are a better "padding" between the metal parts and will indicate to you when they need replacing...by volume, color, etc.

 

[Should be playing golf]

The Chrysler manual was written before synthetic oils were designed for use in street vehicles. Viscosity was the main issue back then, and still should be today. Trust the engineers, synthetics work great in rice-burners and disposable grocery-getters. If you want to protect an old, expensive collector vehicle, use conventional and change it regularly.
So there...Just my 3cents.

As far as GL-5 eating yellow metals...I don't think anyone can say this for sure. It's still an up-in-the-air issue for now.

 

[RJRENTON]

The main issue is synthetic vs. Non-synthetic. Viscosity is the optimum oil for use in a particular environment. Are you driving your hot rod to car shows on warm summer days or are you plowing snow in the U.P. with it? Basically just use conventional 140 or 80w90, GL-4 if you can get it. The experts are questioning synthetics due to the fact that they do not break down during use resulting in metal parts taking the effect of wear, whereas conventional oils are sacrificial in that they breakdown first protecting the metal parts they are lubing. Any oil/lubricant chemist will agree to this point. This is why people are told they don't have to change their synthetic motor oil for 10-12K miles. Conventional lubricants are a better "padding" between the metal parts and will indicate to you when they need replacing...by volume, color, etc.

I'm going to continue to use Mobil One Synthetic oil. BTW....WHO ARE the experts you refer to? Likewise who are the oil/lubricant chemical experts referred to ? I'll check facts and ask them to substantiate their postulates/claims.....I like factual information not hearsay claims. I'm well aware of oil properties (viscosity, temperature, etc )with respect to the intended service, being an former associate member of API......
BOB RENTON

 

[md71631]

I was going to put in Red Line but it was backordered so Speedway suggested Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-90.... synthetic and is non corrosive to soft yellow metals.....so ok to use with the synchronizers..... oh yeah....it has cushioning molecules to absorb impact on the gears.... anyway they would not print lies on the bottle... right? so far so good with it....

 

[RJRENTON]

I was going to put in Red Line but it was backordered so Speedway suggested Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-90.... synthetic and is non corrosive to soft yellow metals.....so ok to use with the synchronizers..... oh yeah....it has cushioning molecules to absorb impact on the gears.... anyway they would not print lies on the bottle... right? so far so good with it....

What are the "soft yellow metals" you note? As I noted b4 there are at least 20+ alloys of brass plus aluminum silicon bronze alloys that look like brass. As noted b4, I'm going to continue to use Mobil One Synthetic oil in my A833 trans.....regardless of who said what.......just my opinion of course....
BOB RENTON

 

[Sinitro]

Try Passon Performance
Passon Performance
309 Turkey Path, Sugarloaf, PA 18249
570.401.8949
Great web site.....www.passonperformance.com
They manufacturer MOPAR transmissions and parts. Call them and inquire what they recommend,
BTW....mashed bananas and peels are quite slippery and promote quick shifting......
I use synthetic Mobil one 75w-90 gear oil and have for 35 years, in spite of what others use, or think.....use the FSM for MOPAR's recommendation.
BOB RENTON

Jamie Passon and Wayne Brewer both strongly recommend not to use synthetic lubricant in the Mopar A-833 4-speed.
They both recommend to use straight 85W/90W regular GL-4 gear oil, non-synthetic..
If the temperature is warmer, use 140W regular GL-4 gear oil.

Just my $0.02....