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440 Running Warm - Why

Agreed. He seems to have plenty of cooling around town but when he is cranking 3500 rpm for an extended time down the interstate his temps are climbing. If he has a thermal fan clutch it should be grabbing when the temps get above 180 behind the radiator....correct?
With a 160 thermostat he is making his operating range much larger and open for larger temperature swings. Is a 30 degree swing just normal for this set up? Or should the fan and clutch be holding the temp lower?
The fan actually sort of gets in the way of cooling when hauling down the highway, since at speed there's no need for a fan to pull air through the radiator then. Nature takes care of forcing air through at that point, which is why the fan clutch in theory is a great idea, letting the fan slip then.
The fan is supposed to lock up and drive directly when the car is at lower rpm/idling, since then the fan is the only thing moving air through the radiator.
 
HT413, you say pump clearance? Do you mean it may have the wrong gasket in the water pump and that's causing a partial blockage? (I've never had the pump off.)

You can rule it out if it's an OEM pump and you've never had it off. Some aluminum pumps come with a special gasket and require a certain clearance from pump to housing in order to move sufficient water.
 
Car is a manual transmission, with a 3.54 rear end, the factory tach shows 3500 (or slightly below) at 70 mph.

Thank you for all your replies, again, all seems well (170 degrees) when idling around town, it just creeps up to the 200 range on the interstate. This is from the dash gauge, I don't have an aftermarket gauge.

The consensus seems to be there's not enough radiator?
 
I honestly would not bat an eyelash with 200 degree temps, if it bothers you I'd suggest temporarily hooking up a mechanical gauge or check the water pump housing right next to the temp sending unit with a infrared temp gun just to verify the factory gauge is reading correct. 200 is not terrible though, 230 on the other hand is hot !
 
I honestly would not bat an eyelash with 200 degree temps, if it bothers you I'd suggest temporarily hooking up a mechanical gauge or check the water pump housing right next to the temp sending unit with a infrared temp gun just to verify the factory gauge is reading correct. 200 is not terrible though, 230 on the other hand is hot !
Agree here... I run a 185 thermostat, and after lots of driving around in town which includes some roads of 50+ miles an hour, and after some heat soak on really hot days... With my IR gun it will read 195 - 200 at the top of the water pump. The IR guns are great because (well they're cheap!) but you can take a temperature at the top of the radiator and then at the bottom to see how good the radiator is actually working..water temps leaving my radiator are usually always around 155
 
I honestly would not bat an eyelash with 200 degree temps, if it bothers you I'd suggest temporarily hooking up a mechanical gauge or check the water pump housing right next to the temp sending unit with a infrared temp gun just to verify the factory gauge is reading correct. 200 is not terrible though, 230 on the other hand is hot !
Absolutely agree with getting a backup reading from another means, hopefully a known accurate one.
Don't agree with 200 being ok going down the interstate, though. That would make me real uncomfortable, especially since these things tend to spike/"heat sink" some right after slowing down coming off the highway/stopping.
That doesn't give much wiggle room for error if you're already 200+ before even slowing down.
 
By the way, did I miss it or do we know what water pump is being employed here?
Is it the "good" 8 vane one?
 
I have no idea what water pump is being used, I've never had it out of the car. It is a stock type pump.

No idea how many vanes, the only way to know is to remove it and count the vanes?
 
Isn't normal operating temp 210 ? Why is 200 so "hot" ?
I've read that posted on here a lot of times, seems like. I remember back in those days that a 180 thermostat was standard issue equipment but to make sure I'm not having memory lapses, I consulted my '68 factory service manual.
Yep, it confirmed a 180F thermostat was standard issue in all but the 170ci slant six, which got a 190F one for some reason.
 
The warmer the engine runs, the better the performance, burning the acids off in the oil, and a more stable engine. Hell, new cars run around 205-230. Of course, there are exceptions to how hot you want to run.
 
Well, further up in this chain, someone said a 195 degree thermostat is what came from the factory. I could drop in a 195 degree thermostat and the car would probably run at 195 degrees all the time.

Agreed, a hotter engine may run better.
 
The cars of the 60's up through the 70's ran 180 thermostats pretty much across the board; at least the few dozen I owned did, along with all of them I repaired for others as I worked in a garage back in school days.
Almost made it a career before I decided I shouldn't - ironically because I loved cars too much, if that makes sense.
Over the years, as manufacturers were forced to literally clean up their act on emissions and fuel economy, the production of engines necessarily became more modern, with advanced metallurgy, casting and machining techniques as well as the advent of computer controls, fuel injection, etc.
Tolerances were tighter; engines ran more efficiently, due in no small part because they could run them hotter, which as has been noted helped naturally with emissions and efficiency.

Bottom line though? Unless you're running an engine made with this modern metallurgy both in castings and internal components, it still makes sense to run them at the temperatures they were "born" with, designed for, manufactured to operate at - and that, once again speaking of the engines of the 60's up through the mid-70's at the least, typically meant 180 degrees.
Don't really care what anyone "says", the factory manuals are the authority on this subject - and the ones I own say 180F.
 
Thank you for the info on the factory manuals, if I put a 180 degree thermostat in it will run warmer around town and then just a little warmer on the interstate.
 
I always assumed that people ran "cooler" thermostats to reduce pre-detonation in hi-po engines.
 
Chevy guys run 160 stats. Car guys run 180s. Factory came with 190 I believe. The stat ain't the problem, at idle it opens and keeps the engine regulated.

Now to the point. Bro, cooling systems aren't designed to keep big blocks cool at 3500 rpm. Slow down.
 
Thank you, let me keep the speed down to 55 - 60 next time I get on the interstate instead of 65-70 and see what the temperature does.
 
My 1970 FSM shows 190 thermostats for all except 318/383 2bbl got 195 ....
 
Chevy guys run 160 stats. Car guys run 180s. Factory came with 190 I believe.
*sigh*
Nope:
7-9.jpg
Straight from the FSM for '68 models, Cooling section 7-9.
As a matter of fact, I don't recall even being able to get a higher degree thermostat for these back in those days; those came later, like mid 70's?

The stat ain't the problem, at idle it opens and keeps the engine regulated.
Correct, sort of. Once the engine gets to the temperature rating of the thermostat, it opens. It doesn't know if you're sitting still or hauling down the freeway, it's temperature sensitive, as explained in the FSM above.

Now to the point. Bro, cooling systems aren't designed to keep big blocks cool at 3500 rpm. Slow down.
Agreed there. One byproduct of our building up our engines back in the day (or now, for that matter) and especially doing the common gear swaps to higher numeric gear ratios was the possibility of over-taxing already marginal cooling systems.
 
Well, my car is a 1970, so I suppose the 190 degree thermostat is what I'm supposed to have?
 
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