545RFE trans tunnel and other questions

[rescuediver1982]

A note on the Hot wire harness. Not sure if you specified a location for the fly by wire location when you ordered the harness. If you are using the truck bell crank like I did, the fly by wire plug needs to be under the hood. Otherwise I believe they locate it under the dash. With the factory A/C, there is no room for that pedal assembly. At least on my 68.

I got the whole kit from a guy who never began his swap, so I'm not exactly sure. I assume it is for the pedal assembly. I am going to try and see how much room I have when I get off work tonight. Is it the same plug, like would I just need to extend the wires to reroute it if I went the bell crank route?

 

[Sixpactogo]

I got the whole kit from a guy who never began his swap, so I'm not exactly sure. I assume it is for the pedal assembly. I am going to try and see how much room I have when I get off work tonight. Is it the same plug, like would I just need to extend the wires to reroute it if I went the bell crank route?

It is the same plug but if I remember correctly, it starts at the ECM. If it needs to get re routed, the wires would need to go through the firewall plug. It should be labeled so should be easily identified as to whether it goes through the firewall or not. Good luck

 

[rsqrdave]

I haven't gotten to mounting the ECU yet but If you are capable of building your own mounts it can be done with out cutting the tunnel. And by moving the engine forward about 3 inches a brake booster will fit. I think the smaller booster (8") fits anyway. But 5.7 or six pack to go will be able to tell you more than I can. But I like the way mine fit and was even able to use my stock drive line with out cutting it. I just have to change the yoke.

To move things 3" forward did you rebuild the motor mount? Did the cross member mount work as well? Not quite sure if I am going to go that route but I have yet to cut my trans tunnel. Finally got the old engine and transmission out the other day. Just waiting on new transmission to show up so I can start mock up.

 

[rescuediver1982]

It is the same plug but if I remember correctly, it starts at the ECM. If it needs to get re routed, the wires would need to go through the firewall plug. It should be labeled so should be easily identified as to whether it goes through the firewall or not. Good luck

So I did some checking tonight and it looks like I should be able to use the new dbw pedal! It doesn't look like my factory heater box comes as far over as the earlier b-bodies did!

 

[Dreamcatcher]

To move things 3" forward did you rebuild the motor mount? Did the cross member mount work as well? Not quite sure if I am going to go that route but I have yet to cut my trans tunnel. Finally got the old engine and transmission out the other day. Just waiting on new transmission to show up so I can start mock up.

I used the original 440 engine mounts attached them to the K member. I made a plate of 3/8 steel to mount to the engine using the 4 bolt holes on the hemi. Then hung the engine where I wanted and made a wedge shaped template then cut the pattern from 3/8 tacked it in place removed and welded it solid. I set it all in the car from the under side jacked the transmission up to where it was as close to the tunnel as I could get with out touching and built a transmission cross member to fit. I have to pull everything back apart for cleaning and paint soon. I will try to post up a few pictures.
Thanks

 

[rsqrdave]

Thanks Dream, I was looking at where the headers hang in relation to the motor mounts and I am not sure moving things forward will work without cutting the headers. But I will wait and see what you have done.

 

[rsqrdave]

So we are going with the cut and build method. Cut the cross-member out today. However some of the issues I am seeing now are the ones I didn't want to deal with. The first issue is the oil dipstick not being bent correctly. I emailed Randy at Bouchillon who said I will probably need to make something to fit it, it was their part even. The next big issue is the motor mounts. The mounting bolts cannot be put in due to the oil filter adapter being in the way. The next issue I have learned is that they changed the AC compressor style somewhere prior to 2016, I think it was maybe 2014 or 2015. The compressor style is smaller and the fittings are different. I may end up using the stock hoses and cutting off and rerouting with new car side ends.

Sixpac, do you have any trans tunnel and cross member pics? I may be following your lead and mounting the PCM on that right side as well. There's about a few papers thickness between the connectors and the AC box (using the Classic Auto Air box).

 

[Sixpactogo]

So we are going with the cut and build method. Cut the cross-member out today. However some of the issues I am seeing now are the ones I didn't want to deal with. The first issue is the oil dipstick not being bent correctly. I emailed Randy at Bouchillon who said I will probably need to make something to fit it, it was their part even. The next big issue is the motor mounts. The mounting bolts cannot be put in due to the oil filter adapter being in the way. The next issue I have learned is that they changed the AC compressor style somewhere prior to 2016, I think it was maybe 2014 or 2015. The compressor style is smaller and the fittings are different. I may end up using the stock hoses and cutting off and rerouting with new car side ends.

Sixpac, do you have any trans tunnel and cross member pics? I may be following your lead and mounting the PCM on that right side as well. There's about a few papers thickness between the connectors and the AC box (using the Classic Auto Air box).

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I have some pics of the tunnel mods on my 68. Also, I remember having to tweak that dip stick to fit properly also. As far as the engine mount on the passenger side, I knocked the nut out and swapped it to the front so the bold would go in from the back. I also cut about 1 1/2" off of the bottom of the 45 degree angled filter assembly to clear the K frame. Also, here are some pics of where I added the water temp sender and oil pressure sender. May help you some.

 

[rsqrdave]

Cutting off and rewelding the nut was the same thing Randy at Bouchillon said. For what I spent on the poly mounts I didn't want to cut something that I may be returning. Do you think a filter relocation kit is a better option or cutting it and shorter oil filter? What part number was the oil filter? It looks like the old mounts get ground off and a little clearencing, then drill new mounting holes and a trans mount hole and it lines up? That is good to know. I was expecting to have to fab something new. 16ga? 18ga? Sheetmetal for trans tunnel.

 

[Sixpactogo]

Yep, the cross member works out perfectly with the mods. don't forget to save and weld in the cross member spacers where you relocate your new holes in the TB cross member. I wouldn't hesitate to re do the motor mount bracket. The nut is only spot welded in. Just grind the weld and pop it out. As far as the sheet metal, I'm pretty sure I used 16 gauge. I got mine from a heating and AC shop and had them roll the hoop in the metal to get a start on it then tweaked it to fit. I'm sure there are other ways but that worked fine for me.
I didn't like the idea of a remote filter set up because of the extra fittings that could leak or clutter up the compartment but everyone has their own ideas on what is best. I don't recall the Bosch filter number but it crossed over from the Wik and Mobil one filters at the parts store. I think it was like a half inch shorter than the Wik so I went with it. Also, I remember having to do some grinding on the left poly mount for some reason too. Don't recall what the issue was though.

 

[5.7 hemi]

They hit the header, that's why they need some clearancing.

 

[rsqrdave]

So today was a complete bust well mostly. Tried to pre-fit the K member and trans to slide under the car. Well guess what the motor mounts do not workish. The passenger side does not slide down far enough to slide the bolt through. Tried for a while to make it fit. That is after cutting and rewilding the bolt to the other side and cutting the oil filter adapter. The mounts that I was sent were the MM57BE and the 61HC headers. I think this is the wrong set up for this engine. In addition after some research on the compressor the newest edition from Mopar is smaller and may not have the issues as the earlier ones. With a slight cut of the K member the compressor fits right in. Will just need to redo the lines. The pics with the tape measure are from the back of the engine block. If anyone still has their block out or could measure that would be much appreciated. There is also a measurement from the front of the oil pan to the back edge of the K member. In some other pics from other rides the steering box is different. Do I need to get the Borgeson one or will mine do. It is the other kind of power steering box (pic #15).

 

[5.7 hemi]

Loosen all the engine mounting bolts, all of them. Then get the insulators to seat, snug that bolt, the tighten the top nut, then the 4 on the block.

 

[Sixpactogo]

I was supplied the same parts as you. I agree they could have done a better job with the mounts as I struggled to make mine fit also. You shouldn't have to grind and finesse them at all if they had paid attention to detail. My mounts are black and yours red so I'm not sure if they did something else with the mounts too. I know they changed the header on the left side but it still has the same number as mine. As far as the steering gear, I have no help for you with that. I went with the Borgeson for four reasons. Size, Weight, ratio and the fact that I learned the 6.1's pump would blow the seals on the vintage gear. However, That too needed some tweaking. It did not line up with the steering column properly so I added 2 1/8" spacers to the outer bolt to tip the gear more in line with the column. Here is a pic of that

 

[rsqrdave]

Loosen all the engine mounting bolts, all of them. Then get the insulators to seat, snug that bolt, the tighten the top nut, then the 4 on the block.

That was my thought however the headers are not on the motor yet. In order to get them in the engine will have to me moved. Tightening up the mounts might not be an option.

 

[rsqrdave]

I was supplied the same parts as you. I agree they could have done a better job with the mounts as I struggled to make mine fit also. You shouldn't have to grind and finesse them at all if they had paid attention to detail. My mounts are black and yours red so I'm not sure if they did something else with the mounts too. I know they changed the header on the left side but it still has the same number as mine. As far as the steering gear, I have no help for you with that. I went with the Borgeson for four reasons. Size, Weight, ratio and the fact that I learned the 6.1's pump would blow the seals on the vintage gear. However, That too needed some tweaking. It did not line up with the steering column properly so I added 2 1/8" spacers to the outer bolt to tip the gear more in line with the column. Here is a pic of that

View attachment 419369

I know you had made the comment about the header and the AC compressor in an earlier posting. I have found that the newer compressors (2014ish? and up) are a different design. The fittings I was sold by Bouchillon do not work with the newer compressor. However the K member needs a little grinding to keep it from rubbing on the back. Your engine is in the car and driving already? Any steering issues? I may have to fins a longer pitman and idler arm so I can turn the car. The oil pan is the one that is recommended The engine mounts are the poly style versus the rubber. I was thinking that they may be slightly thicker. When the isolator is off the mount and on the k member it fits fine. But trying to get the two together is the problem. Calling TTi today to see what they suggest before I continue banging my head against the wall.

 

[Sixpactogo]

My car was finished in late 2015. I have no problems with the steering. I know what you are thinking though about the steering. You noticed the steering arm hitting the oil pan plug. I thought I had the same issue but when the tie rods are all completed and hooked to the spindles, it don't travel far enough to hit the plug. At least lock to lock with the Borgeson gear. I remember the issue with those damn mounts though. I had my engine upside down on the stand trying to get the K frame mounted to it. Now that I think more about it, the bolts they supply with those poly mounts are 1/2". I ended up using some mounts I had from my truck resto. They had 7/16" bolts and I was able to get it put together with the 7/16" where the 1/2" wouldn't fit. I was just out in my shop and looked at the poly mounts I got from Bouchillon and it came back to me how much of a pain in the *** it was. I don't know how everyone else was able to make them fit but I feel your pain. Maybe you will need to replace the 1/2" bolts with 7/16 also. Like I said before, I think they could have spent a little more time on the design to make things fit. You will have to deal with Randy on the Compressor fittings. He is pretty knowledgeable but I'm glad I am done dealing with him and his little dog syndrome. He don't tell you everything you need to know and bristles up when you call him on it.

 

[rsqrdave]

Well engines in for now. Those sneaky gremlins got in there and did something that made it work. Engine and core transmission mated in in car. Still need to cut tunnel and fit trans cross member. Thought that was going to be the tough part. I guess the Mopar engineers envisioned a hemi going in a b body some day. Staying with the standard shift lever on the 545, is there a shift rod out there to attach to the Z bar or am I going to have to make one? The original was cotter pin style. So far thanks for the info and ideas Sixpac and 5.7. She sure looks good. Well after a little clean up.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I used a cable, was the simplest thing to do.

 

[rsqrdave]

Cable as in floor shifter? I have bench seats and was hoping to keep the floor clear. I think the old kickdown linkage on the 727 might work if I straighten it out. But then I would need a new one to reuse the trans in the next project.