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62 dodge polara push button HELP !!

XMAN JR

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Ok, I got dads drive shaft in. The neutral button was in. I started the car & out the park brake on & that seams to be working fine. I push the revers button in & nothing no revers. I push the first button gear in & I have a forward gear. Not sure which one but the wheels move in all three forward gears. Now all the time I am doing this the neutral button is still in. I cant get to come out. At one time we had the trany pan down & we adjusted the shifter cable. I seamed to be right. Anyone have any ideas ?
 
Did you have the shifter out of the dash?

Sounds like it could be in the shifter. Make sure the spring isn't broke and in position. Look up under the dash with a light.

I always use a ohms meter to double check neutral switch for proper alignment. That will tell you if you were in the right position on the rooster comb. One lead on the switch connection and one to ground.

Someone needs to hold the neutral button in when making the cable adjustment at the trans.

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mopar-push-button-transmission-park-cable-tech-tips.html
 
Last edited:
Did you have the shifter out of the dash?

Sounds like it could be in the shifter. Make sure the spring isn't broke and in position. Look up under the dash with a light.

I always use a ohms meter to double check neutral switch for proper alignment. That will tell you if you were in the right position on the rooster comb. One lead on the switch connection and one to ground.

Someone needs to hold the neutral button in when making the cable adjustment at the trans.

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mopar-push-button-transmission-park-cable-tech-tips.html
No shifter wasn't out. Yes I had someone hold the neutral button in. When my dad bought the new park cable it came with install & adjustment instructions.
 
No shifter wasn't out. Yes I had someone hold the neutral button in. When my dad bought the new park cable it came with install & adjustment instructions.
I have about six or seven threads showing on mine. You can't totally go by this but if you have a lot more or less...
20170630_114645.jpg


Is your safety neutral switch hooked up and working?
 
I have about six or seven threads showing on mine. You can't totally go by this but if you have a lot more or less...
View attachment 527452

Is your safety neutral switch hooked up and working?
No I don't think it is. We have to take the wire from neutral switch off & use a jumper wire from the starter relay to a ground in order to start it. I will check it out. When we adjusted the shifter cable we did it with the trany pan off. quick question- do I have drain the trany oil out to replace the neutral safty switch ? What is the linkage on in your picture?
 
So when you say you have forward gears, do you have to hold the 1st, 2nd and drive buttons in or do they stay in?
You said the neutral button stays pushed in and won't pop out when you raise the park lever?
The neutral button popping out when the lever is taken out of park is a function of the dash shift mechanism, nothing with the trans itself. Go back and follow the steps in the manual to set the shift cable up again.
 
What is the linkage on in your picture?
That's the kickdown/throttle pressure rod/lever. Other end goes to carb linkage.
If you don't have it hooked up, and adjusted right, you can burn the trans.
 
We have to take the wire from neutral switch off & use a jumper wire from the starter relay to a ground in order to start it.

Get yourself a ohms meter on the switch and go through the gear selection. This will tell you where your neutral actually is. Go by the instructions in the link I posted. There's only one spot that that switch is going to ground and that's in the deepest slot in the rooster comb. Anywhere else it will be an open circuit. Even halfway out of the slot it's not going to make contact.

More than likely your cable adjustment is off and that's why you can't engage reverse. The neutral button won't pop out if the cable isn't where it suppose to be. Too far one way or another.

Removing the switch will drain a considerable amount of fluid. I don't think you need to remove it. Loosen the adjustment wheel on the trans and turn it out. Then by hand move the cable in and out to feel where the rooster comb engages. Have your ohms meter hooked to the switch to watch when it happens. Have your neutral button held in when doing this.

Doing it by myself
20170920_175602.jpg

20170920_174724.jpg


Question about finding my threads. I'm counting the threads on the adjuster in the pic.
 
Just to check your park cable adjustment, does the leaver go completely from one side to the other?
The way I adjust is to have the leaver all the way to the left. Holding it there, loosen the clamp at the trans, pull the cable out as far as it will go, then release. Maybe just push it back in, a very small amount and tighten clamp. Check the operation with the rear wheels off the ground and turn the driveshaft until you hear and feel the park pawl drop in with a good solid clunk.

Doing it by myself.
20170920_201657.jpg

20170517_195431.jpg
 
OK guys I have a good on for ya LOL I got home from the hospital, slid under the dash & found the thin neutral rod bent. I straighten it. Now all the buttons work like there suppose to. Here is where it gets weird. I pulled the coil wire off. It turns over in neutral. It WII NOT turn over in reverse, first & second. It WILL turn over in drive. OK I hooked up the coil wire. Pushed in the neutral button & put on the park brake. It starts up & wheels DO NOT move. Shut it off. Pulled the park off & left the neutral button in. Started it up & the wheels are turning forward. Shut it off. Pushed the drive button in. Started it up & the wheels are turning forward. NOW IT GETS EVEN WEIRDER I walked away for about 1/2 hr. Now it WILL NOT start in first, second, drive or reverse. It WILL start in neutral & the wheels are turning in reverse. LMAO OK lets try this again. With the neutral button in & park brake ON it will start & wheels are NOT turning. Shut it off. With the neutral button still in I took the park off. Started it up & the wheels are turning forward. Did you guys get all that. LOL O & the trany has no place for a kick down linkage.
 
I have about six or seven threads showing on mine. You can't totally go by this but if you have a lot more or less...
View attachment 527452

Is your safety neutral switch hooked up and working?
See in this picture where your kick down linkage is above & behind the shifter cable. My dads trany does not have that.
 
OK guys I have a good on for ya LOL I got home from the hospital, slid under the dash & found the thin neutral rod bent. I straighten it. Now all the buttons work like there suppose to. Here is where it gets weird. I pulled the coil wire off. It turns over in neutral. It WII NOT turn over in reverse, first & second. It WILL turn over in drive. OK I hooked up the coil wire. Pushed in the neutral button & put on the park brake. It starts up & wheels DO NOT move. Shut it off. Pulled the park off & left the neutral button in. Started it up & the wheels are turning forward. Shut it off. Pushed the drive button in. Started it up & the wheels are turning forward. NOW IT GETS EVEN WEIRDER I walked away for about 1/2 hr. Now it WILL NOT start in first, second, drive or reverse. It WILL start in neutral & the wheels are turning in reverse. LMAO OK lets try this again. With the neutral button in & park brake ON it will start & wheels are NOT turning. Shut it off. With the neutral button still in I took the park off. Started it up & the wheels are turning forward. Did you guys get all that. LOL O & the trany has no place for a kick down linkage.

You're shift cable is still out of adjustment. It's position is past the neutral indent on the rooster comb.

The wheels are not turning in park because the park pawl is holding the output shaft from turning. Not the best thing to do. Adjust your shift cable with a ohms meter on the switch. It's close but not right and could cause damage. It's a very fine adjustment.

See in this picture where your kick down linkage is above & behind the shifter cable. My dads trany does not have that.

There isn't a shaft sticking up in that area? I'm not sure what trans you have there.
 
Picture of the cable setup in the transmission and lack of throttle linkage on the transmission please?
 
Picture of the cable setup in the transmission and lack of throttle linkage on the transmission please?
Ill get some pictures for ya. When we adjusted the shifter cable we had the pan off. My dad pushed the neutral button & I saw that it was on top of the ball of the neutral safety switch. Now we also adjusted it by the motor manual.
 
There are 2 different style single pin neutral safety switches. One has a metal plunger, one has a plastic plunger. One is longer and will hang up on the rooster comb of the valve body. Also 2 different cable ends and attachments. Wrong combo will cause play in the shifter/cable/valve body resulting in the valve body rooster comb not moving completely when changing direction of the shift ( R to D, then D to R). Remove the pan and watch as someone shifts through the gears.
Doug
 
There are 2 different style single pin neutral safety switches. One has a metal plunger, one has a plastic plunger. One is longer and will hang up on the rooster comb of the valve body. Also 2 different cable ends and attachments. Wrong combo will cause play in the shifter/cable/valve body resulting in the valve body rooster comb not moving completely when changing direction of the shift ( R to D, then D to R). Remove the pan and watch as someone shifts through the gears.
Doug

Normally plastic in some '63 and on up and console shifted. They used a 6 detent rooster comb instead of a five. OP stated that his trans doesn't have a kick down leaver and there isn't a place for one. I'm not sure what he has there.

"The neutral safety switch in Console A-727 TorqueFlites is in the same location as in other TorqueFlites, but is of a new design. It has a larger spring loaded nylon insulator plug with a pin-like metal contact in its center. The manual valve operating lever must be precisely in Neutral or Park position before the starter circuit can be energized. As a matter of fact, difficulty can be encountered when reinstalling a valve body in getting it aligned with the switch. Before tightening the ten valve body retaining bolts, check to make sure that a "Finger" of the manual valve lever centers on the switch contact in "Neutral" or "Park". The switch seal is a special design, unlike the cupped washer and O-ring seal used on other models. This is a one-piece seal, consisting of a cupped aluminum washer entirely coated with Butyl rubber."

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/transtech.html
 
Dad passed away Thursday night so I haven't worked on his 62. Its been a little crazy. The neutral switch in his trany is not the plastic one. The trany has a reverse manual valve body & our trany builder said we didn't need any kick down linkage. The wire goes on it with an eye type end. Looks like a threaded rod. Im going to take the pan down. When I get the time
 
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