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67 R/T Coronet Front Brake Shoes

JTRT

Active Member
Local time
3:59 AM
Joined
Jul 31, 2017
Messages
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Location
Grand Junction Colorado
Hey Guys,

I'm trying to locate front brake shoes for my 67 R/T. The drums are 11" diameter and 3" deep.
The parts stores only show a 10" drum and shoe. Anyone run into this issue?

Thanks!
 
Look up Brakes in a Box.They deal in drum brakes. Yeah, the part stores won't have a listing for a R/T, unless they have someone that will look for them. R/T's were 11''x3'' just as you said.
 
I have 2 sets genuine mopar. 75 dollars a set plus the ride. I can send you some pictures if you want to match them up.
 
Hey Guys,

I'm trying to locate front brake shoes for my 67 R/T. The drums are 11" diameter and 3" deep.
The parts stores only show a 10" drum and shoe. Anyone run into this issue?

Thanks!
I would change parts store also.
 
The good parts store guys are getting old and or dying off. I just lost a good friend and counter man.He really knew his s%#t. RIP Jake !
 
I have a set. $50 plus shipping.
021336 brake shoes 1.jpg
021336 brake shoes 2.jpg
 
Keep the drums. I did the disc on the last car and when I was done I wished I would have just stayed with the drums. This car we have now will keep its drums. 11x3 drums are very capable. If you had smaller ones then the discs make sense. Just my opinion...
 
Keep the drums. I did the disc on the last car and when I was done I wished I would have just stayed with the drums. This car we have now will keep its drums. 11x3 drums are very capable. If you had smaller ones then the discs make sense. Just my opinion...
Agreed. When working properly, the 11" drums from the kit give good performance and modulation.
Any future upgrades will not include going to discs.
 
I was thinking of going to disks but from all the nightmares if read I think I'll just upgrade the shoes With muscle car brakes. There are good reviews. The 336 number was on my last set just like pbggs pic shows the parts guys should be able to match them up no matter how dense they are.
 
But ------------- even if they have them ---- if they have been manufactured in the last quarter of a century (last 25 years)....
they are N O T ++ asbestos ++
The absolute BEST way to go..... really the OL+NLY way to go (IF you love your MOPAR) is N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++.....
That pictured Mopar CycleBond set ---- IS N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++....
I have some also, and the 11" x 2 1/2" Rears....
Call me -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935..... Long Island, New York....
 
I was thinking of going to disks but from all the nightmares if read I think I'll just upgrade the shoes With muscle car brakes.
I won't talk you out of this path. My friends 68 Chevelle has musclecar brakes and it stops great. I've driven it twice and believe they have a good solution. If my front drums has been in better shape I definitely would have gone this route.

Having said that, I lived through the disc conversion and am happy with my Dr Diff kit. Lots of frustrating bumps in the road to get the job done, but looking back it was the InLine Tube components that really gave me the most trouble. I think if I could have just swapped the porportioning block and kept the original brake lines the job would have been much less painful.
 
I won't talk you out of this path. My friends 68 Chevelle has musclecar brakes and it stops great. I've driven it twice and believe they have a good solution. If my front drums has been in better shape I definitely would have gone this route.

Having said that, I lived through the disc conversion and am happy with my Dr Diff kit. Lots of frustrating bumps in the road to get the job done, but looking back it was the InLine Tube components that really gave me the most trouble. I think if I could have just swapped the porportioning block and kept the original brake lines the job would have been much less painful.
Thanks, I did read your thread as well as some others, and not everybody had issues but it would be just my luck for it to become a nightmare.
 
RT I have to agree with the above. I run the original brake setup w/manual and have no qualms at all. Way back I picked up some metallic shoes that worked great, they looked like metal filings glued to the backing( in fact they're still on the front) had to replace with 'normal' lining on rears because they wouldn't grab enuf when cold to powerbrake when racing. Probably gonna go with "musclecar brake" also when need to replace. Discs are nice but when u got those big 'oem' brakes they are a ton better than the 10" setups.
 
You'all need to keep in mind that EVERYTHING other than ASBESTOS will rip the drums to smithereens --- and on a front
brake HUB & DRUM -- you have the additional charge of a Hub & Drum Changeover -- and paening or swaeging the studs --
and you can't even go to a lot of places and have this process done at any cost...... just saying......
 
"mobileparts" I have to kinda disagree; mine has probably 30-40k miles and still has original frt drums and perfectly round. No shake,shimmy, nothing; just a little more leg pressure compared to power brks!
 
you can disagree all you want ---- put asbestos on one car in a laboratory and this new garbage that the EPA has forced
everybody to use on an identical car ----- and you will see a 500 % difference in braking..... that's an unarguable fact....
You can treat your car like GOLD or treat your car like garbage ..... it's your choice .... and we're in a free country.....
But the smart people use N.O.S. ++ Asbestos ++......................... period..............
 
Ok, ok I agree with the asbestos, but nothing made now is asbestos. Don't get ur panties in a wad. These days no more asbestos is a fact of life, probably breathed too much of that good crap in my life.
 
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