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68 B-Body Dutchman Panel Fitment Tweaking

rakort

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So its become quite clear through a trial mock up with the rear window, trunk lid, and replacement deck filler panel (dutchman) that the replacement dutchman is arched about 7/16" high in the middle. A fit test between my loose replacement (AMD) deck lid filler panel and the trunk lid conforms the same. The original package shelf remained in place along with the piece in between the ductchman and package shelf for the mock up. See my build thread for a some pixs.

So options and thoughts from the groups regarding path forward?

Beat the **** of the panel with me best body hammer and order a new one and hope for better results?

Complain to the supplier (Stephans Performance) and ask for a new one and hope for better results?

OR deal with this myself and:

cut some some narrow slits along the bottom edges of the gutter and bottom edge where it meets the window (red lines) and support it on the ends (green) and tweak the center down by sitting on it then weld it back up?

Any input welcome!
thanks
Brian


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i had similar issues with the same AMD part on my 69
i ended up using a goodmark panel that was the lesser of 2 evils
by a little but not much.
i even looked around for a original one for a while with no luck.
it still took a while tweaking the goodmark into place where i was happy with it.
i could never even get the AMD even close
it would distort in a different direction no matter what you tried.
i feel you shouldn't have to be splicing up a new panel to fit
i guess if you had to, but i wouldn't be too happy about it.
 
I no longer assume anything fits and fully expect to cut, slice, weld, grind, beat, and/or add metal. It's just part of the job.......if a sheet metal part actually fits, I consider it gravy

get it as close as possible, a littler filler does the rest.......reality

PS... sometimes a couple good whacks with a rubber mallet will do wonders
 
ok here goes nothing. I cut some supports for the end of the panel and will secure the whole assembly to the bench. From there I plan on tweaking the center downward until I remove the unwanted arch. Wish me luck! Hopefully it won't snap into some unusable form! LOL

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Yea, that isn't their best repopped piece by a longshot. Mine was too long on the window side and had to be cut and rebent. This was with factory package tray and quarters in place. Mine still isn't 100% perfect with regards to the moulding fit.
 
Yea, that isn't their best repopped piece by a longshot. Mine was too long on the window side and had to be cut and rebent. This was with factory package tray and quarters in place. Mine still isn't 100% perfect with regards to the moulding fit.

So the OAL was too long or it encroached on the window (opening) too much?

My OAL was too long as most if not all are....the gap around the perimeter of the window seems to be pretty good.
 
So the OAL was too long or it encroached on the window (opening) too much?

My OAL was too long as most if not all are....the gap around the perimeter of the window seems to be pretty good.

The oal right to left. It matched up fairly well with the package tray. Mine is popped up a smidge in the middle near the trunk.
 
Mine is popped up a smidge in the middle near the trunk.
yeah, mine too. When I take the free panel and match it to the trunk lid its about 3/8 high.....not for long (I hope) LOL
 
I no longer assume anything fits and fully expect to cut, slice, weld, grind, beat, and/or add metal. It's just part of the job.......if a sheet metal part actually fits, I consider it gravy

get it as close as possible, a littler filler does the rest.......reality

PS... sometimes a couple good whacks with a rubber mallet will do wonders

lmao......I fell victim to the hit and run red X
 
I too have lost faith in the "Authentic Restoration Parts" game. OEM is the best thing if you can find usable parts. Its a given that with metal reproduction parts, there will be fabrication involved. Choose your restoration project carefully. Its easy to dis assemble a car only to be disappointed when repro parts require more massaging than you had hoped for. Been there done that. Especially for those who don't have the tools or knowledge that's required. That's when it gets expensive....or worse, you give up on the project. I tip my hat to those who keep going on the projects that go sour initially. An individual can certainly purchase a done car, but my respect goes to the person guy or gal that perseveres and completes a restoration project based on love for the car itself.
HR 20
 
I too have lost faith in the "Authentic Restoration Parts" game. OEM is the best thing if you can find usable parts. Its a given that with metal reproduction parts, there will be fabrication involved. Choose your restoration project carefully. Its easy to dis assemble a car only to be disappointed when repro parts require more massaging than you had hoped for. Been there done that. Especially for those who don't have the tools or knowledge that's required. That's when it gets expensive....or worse, you give up on the project. I tip my hat to those who keep going on the projects that go sour initially. An individual can certainly purchase a done car, but my respect goes to the person guy or gal that perseveres and completes a restoration project based on love for the car itself.
HR 20

I used as much original metal on mine for the main purpose of saving some money, but I also knew how re stamped panels fit and I would rather deal with patching old than fitting new.
 
yikes! Im going to be tackling this soon myself... noticed the fitment was weird from the get go. will have to adjust everything accordingly
 
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