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68 K-Frame in a 64

Glenwood

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Just wondering if anyone has pics of their RB engine in a 63 or 64 that has a later K-frame in it. Wanted to see what spacing looks like behind the engine and around the steering box.
I saw a 68 k-frame with a sway bar for sale locally and was thinking about the swap.
 
Some of the others can tell you 'how much', but it will put motor/trans towards the rear a few inches. Closer to the firewall.
On my 64, already had the 64 BB K-frame, all slipped right in, later model motor/trans. But, what you want up front makes the dif, too.
 
I've got two old pictures from when I first bought my car. If/when I can get back to the shop I'll try to take some better ones.
As it sets today I can tell you the TTI headers fit with no dinging. I can get to each plug. I had to "modify" the pinch seam on the transmission tunnel to allow for my transmission blanket. I probably didn't have to but I ended up drilling holes in the floor pan/firewall tunnel area for easy access to the top transmission bolts from inside the car. Since I bought it that way I can't speak for sure but I'm pretty sure you have to do something with the transmission mount. Someone here will know.
motor firewall.jpg
 
Some of the others can tell you 'how much', but it will put motor/trans towards the rear a few inches. Closer to the firewall.
On my 64, already had the 64 BB K-frame, all slipped right in, later model motor/trans. But, what you want up front makes the dif, too.

I thought sb and bb k-frames were the same for these cars?

I've been reading up on this subject. I have to get a custom driveshaft anyway as my original b&t ds has about the dia. of a pencil. I don't really trust a 50+ year old b&t joint anyway.
 
I've got two old pictures from when I first bought my car. If/when I can get back to the shop I'll try to take some better ones.
As it sets today I can tell you the TTI headers fit with no dinging. I can get to each plug. I had to "modify" the pinch seam on the transmission tunnel to allow for my transmission blanket. I probably didn't have to but I ended up drilling holes in the floor pan/firewall tunnel area for easy access to the top transmission bolts from inside the car. Since I bought it that way I can't speak for sure but I'm pretty sure you have to do something with the transmission mount. Someone here will know.
View attachment 389597

Thanks for the pics! Doesn't look as tight as I thought. I read that the trans mount could be spun 180* and some drilling will make it fit. I don't know if there will be enough slack on the shift and park cables though.

The sway bar would be nice to have added. I assume the LCAs are the same?
 
I am running a later model 727. Here's mine but I have no idea exactly which mount it is. I do know it's been modified.
Trans Mount.jpg
 
I thought sb and bb k-frames were the same for these cars?
I've always been told their different, at the motor mount pads, but never have had a SB to see.
On mine, because of the intake manifold I was using, and going to a later (67) 727, for the slip yoke driveshaft, the stock 64 BB K-frame worked great...motor 69 440.
Only 'mod' I had to do was on the trans crossmember, and moved the mount 'box' to the rear 1/2".
Yeah, wound up at the front of the motor, rad to fan to water pump, fan off the rad 1 1/2", with no fan spacer.
 
Thanks for the pics! Doesn't look as tight as I thought. I read that the trans mount could be spun 180* and some drilling will make it fit. I don't know if there will be enough slack on the shift and park cables though.

The sway bar would be nice to have added. I assume the LCAs are the same?
if you want to put a cross ram on it you hammer the firewall
 
The small block and big block V-8 K-frames are the same. The firewall can be pushed back for clearance very easily with a bottle jack on the K-frame and a couple of 2x4's.
Doug
 
There 'tis...right from the horse's mouth. Learn something new, every day.
 
I'm using a 70 unit in mine. Clearance is a little close in some areas like above the trans servos that may require some floor thumping. My issues for clearance were mostly due to me using a Gear Vendors unit. You may need to re-route any hvac stuff on the firewall depending on what you have going on. My car is an a/c one so the expansion valve and plumbing are in the way. I'm re-routing said plumbing through the rh bulkhead between the inner and outer fender. I'm upgrading to Restomod's system since the old one is huge and needs repairs.

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Here's a few shots of my 64 with a '69 K Frame. The right side valve cover starts to get close to the firewall but still adequate clearance to remove / install. There is lots of room in the steering box area. You'll have to modify the cross member but that's simple. With the newer K Frame there's no more issue of oil pan to K Frame clearance on the right front corner.

IMG_2184.JPG
IMG_2097.JPG
IMG_1965.JPG
 
That's awesome, thanks Malex! Are the steering linkage and headers, etc., for a 69?

Yes Sir. You would use headers for the 68 in your case. My headers are the TTI. 440-25's. The newer K frames also have an improved idler arm from the 64 I am told.
 
Has anyone weighed the car front and rear before the modification and then afterwords to find out the weight differential and what are the real effects on the steering feel as well as the weight advantage on the rear for traction in a drag race scenario. I am going to do this mod on my 64 dodge polara probably next winter and have been contemplating it for quite a while and am pretty sure of the handeling/launch improvements on the road as well as the strip.I do have the 4-wheel scales now so I can see the before and after weights and the differential as I will probably go ahead and move the D-60 forward a little if this would also help the overall handling/launch. Can anyone shed some light on this or have any pointers/opinions, it would be greatly appreciated. thanks
 
I've read countless posts on this subject and all seem to say that the slight weight transfer rearward makes a difference for traction. I'm not attempting to race this convertible. I thought I'd just free up a little space for the oil pan, rad-to-fan & for exhaust around the pwr steering pump.

I have schumaker BB mounts for the existing 64 Kframe. Will I have to get new ones to suit the 68?
 
You will need different mounts for the 66- k's. The 66- units use a double shear mount on the idler arm, unlike the single bayonet bolt on the -65's. I'm using the 70 unit as it has the sway bar passing through the k as opposed to in front of it. On my car, the header clearance was not an issue even with the Indy motor and having to use Schumacher mounts as the block uses Hemi style mount bosses. Tons of clearance to the body, suspension, steering etc. The only thing the pipes got close to are the block main cap cross bolts and a couple of other engine related items. I got them uncoated just for that reason.
 
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