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- Dec 4, 2009
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Lash is a bit big unless you plan on being hard on it. Is that measured at the tightest spot? I like to check in at least 4 places.
Guess I'm O'School on that $10 for it, just me. Yes you can add it later. My dad bought a 64 Olds Starfire convert with posi. We were out riding around and he went around a tight corner at low speed and it felt like we ran up a curb. Huge clunk, took it back to dealer several times to complain. They said there was bulletin, were told to put an additive the factory supplied. Didn't totally fix problem but much better.Hey Fran--really necessary anymore? Unless you have "chattering" noise? I think the newer stuff seems pretty good by itself. Course, I have a 'cone type' sure-grip in mine.
The split is not always dead center but of the ones I've checked....which ain't many haven't been off more than .005". My set up tool is an older Pro Parts that I bought from a buddy after he used it one time. I borrowed it for at least 10 years before he finally asked if I wanted to buy it. Sure! I had already set up dozens of rears in that time. Thing is, the pattern never really looked right to me so I just quit checking it after testing several rears to see how they acted. Have only had one rear that had a slight hum to it and you had to listen for it.....The pinion is marked for depth on the gear itself.
The instructions say between .008 and .012 for backlash.
I set up the pinion at the number on the gear and the pattern was way off. It took a .040 shim to achieve that depth.
I put a .090 in and achieved the pattern in the pictures I posted. Cass, who sold me the gears said to start with a .090.
To be fair, I'm measuring from the split of the carrier bearing to the back of the pinion. I'm assuming that the flat surface in the case where the carrier bearing cap parts is the center of the carrier. Maybe a bad assumption, as the pattern was falling off the teeth by 50%