Alternator - Voltage Regulator Upgrade and Set Up Plan 1968 Coronet R/T

[KidCoronet]

After 17 years of deep hibernation I'm finally on the cusp of getting my R/T back on the road. It's taken me 3 years to fix literally everything from front to back but it has been a blast!

Need a little help down the stretch.

Here's what I've got:
Original 440 magnum freshly rebuilt
Mallory Unilite distributor - Mallory Powermaster coil (I added these in 1988)
New bulkhead connector with all of the wires cleaned and in good shape (old one had 2 melted wires!)
New engine wiring harness set up for original points distributor
Ammeter connections look good - all snug and in good shape
Mechanical fuel pump, no big stereo...nothing added to the stock electrical system although a high possibility of adding 1 electric fan (it always ran warm)

My plan:
I have a reman alternator from Napa - 65 amp squareback (was originally 37amp single field roundback) dual field for a 1972 Dodge.
About 15 years ago I purchased and OEM appearing voltage regulator with upgraded electronic internals from DavesMopar Part #ER100 (discontinued but he still has a write about it online)
Run a 10 gauge wire with a 16 gauge (?) fusible link from the alternator battery post to the starter relay to relieve some of the load going to the ammeter
Ground one of the alternator field wires to the alternator case (a bit fuzzy on this with this VR set-up?)

From what I've read if I'd kept the original mechanical voltage regulator, I could have simply grounded one of the Alt field wires and called it good but I do like the idea of using the OEM appearing one - not to mention it should perform better. Just not 100 percent sure if the same plan works for my new solid state VR?

I'm not at all against bypassing the ammeter gauge entirely at some point and installing a voltmeter gauge but right now am looking for the simplest, safest, quickest solution that makes the most sense so I can get the car fired up as soon as possible (I pick up the motor on Monday).

I'm sure I've forgotten to mention something but do you guys think this approach makes sense and if not what adjustments or corrections would you make?

Thank you!!



My voltage regulator:

 

[4speed68rt]

I'm not sure about any of that, but would like to see some pictures of that '68 R/T.

 

[Don Frelier]

If you have a good square back then the easiest and most effective thing is to get a newer style electronic voltage regulator. You can buy the plug with leads from rock auto. Then you just need to run 1 wire.
Google Image Result for https://www.moparaction.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/vr-wiring.jpg

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Looks like the pictured aftermarket electronic single field wire regulator should work. Yes, running a single wire regulator (mechanical or electronic) with a dual isolated field alternator, requires one field brush to be grounded and the other connected to the single regulator field terminal. I also would run the later electronic regulator with that alternator, rewire as necessary. Not a fan of intentionally disabling a functioning ammeter with the described bypass myself. Bypass the two charging system Packard connections in the bulkhead connector, by far the weakest link in the original charging system.

 

[Don67Satellite]

If you want to run a 10 gauge wire to the battery or the post on the starter relay, you'd use a 14 gauge fusible link. The method I am aware of in selecting is whatever size wire you use, subtract 4. So, 12 gauge would be 16, 10 is 14, 8 would be 12 etc.

You will get many responses whether to do it or not for various reasons. Many threads on the subject already.

I installed a 100A alternator & solid state regulator. So to take the strain off the 55yo wiring I did this. It caused the ammeter to read incorrectly due to the bypass.

Later, I also did the bulkhead bypass (some minor melting had occurred) and took my ammteter out of the equation, adding a volt meter.

Why? Because it's my car.

 

[KidCoronet]

Thanks guys for sharing your thoughts here! So it sounds like I could probably use the solid state OEM appearing voltage regulator I pictured but it would be overall better to opt for a more modern solid state VR version like the one Don F. suggested.

Is it that my OEM looking VR is basically obsolete by newer technology or is there another application it would be good for?

I couldn't help but want to use it because I think it looks pretty cool on my firewall - while trying to maintain some semblance of originality. Kinda like Don67 says, "because it's my car". Love it and so true.

In the end, I'll opt for what's the safest or most efficient when it comes to the charging system.

As for the 10 gauge wire, I've read soooo much and like most things found lot's of varying opinions but that gauge seemed to be the most used and I will add in the 14 gauge fusible link.

4Speed68Dart asked for pics so I'm sending a few I just took and they aren't great but it's the best I can do atm!

Many thanks guys!

 

[KidCoronet]

Photos

 

[Don67Satellite]

Photos

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Beautiful car!

 

[KidCoronet]

Thank you!

 

[4speed68rt]

That's 4speed68rt. But nice looking car. It has potential.

 

[hunt2elk]

Thanks guys for sharing your thoughts here! So it sounds like I could probably use the solid state OEM appearing voltage regulator I pictured but it would be overall better to opt for a more modern solid state VR version like the one Don F. suggested.

Is it that my OEM looking VR is basically obsolete by newer technology or is there another application it would be good for?

I couldn't help but want to use it because I think it looks pretty cool on my firewall - while trying to maintain some semblance of originality. Kinda like Don67 says, "because it's my car". Love it and so true.

In the end, I'll opt for what's the safest or most efficient when it comes to the charging system.

As for the 10 gauge wire, I've read soooo much and like most things found lot's of varying opinions but that gauge seemed to be the most used and I will add in the 14 gauge fusible link.

4Speed68Dart asked for pics so I'm sending a few I just took and they aren't great but it's the best I can do atm!

Many thanks guys!

The original style mechanical regulator you posted in your first post would work fine on a car running points, but is not recommended with electronic ignition. The new ones reproduced now have a printed circuit board inside and work with electronic ignition. However, every single one of them regulates at too high of voltage, typically 14.8 - 15.2 volts. Piles of them are being used and work ok I guess, but I couldn't live with those high outputs and converted my cars over to the newer style internally regulated alternators. The 1970 and newer style regulator that Don posted about is much easier to find that puts out the recommended 13.8 - 14.2 volts. There is also a company selling an adjustable one in this style.

 

[KidCoronet]

This is why I love this site! Good information like this helps keep me from banging my head against the wall. In 1983, my first car was an all-original 70 Superbee with a Hurst pistol grip and 383 magnum. $1500 bucks and seemed like a lot at the time for kid anyway. Haha! Bought the Coronet in 1985 and somehow managed to hold on to it all these years.

After having taken a 17 year break from wrenching on it, most everything came right back (like riding a bike) but when it comes to the electrical issues I'm a bit rusty and just want to make certain the bases are covered!

Just to be sure, the OEM looking regulator I pictured is not mechanical (as the original ones were). This one has been upgraded with electronic/solid-state internals.

Now I'm curious if it has a "circuit board" inside or otherwise? Be nice to get a peek in there.

 

[hunt2elk]

If it has the solid state internals, then it will work with electronic ignition.