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Big Block driver side motor mount strap

Darthomas

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Gonna try this next.
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^^^ That will vibrate as much as a solid mount. Be interesting to hear about the results. I tossed my solid mount years ago in favour of stock rubber mounts...much more pleasant to drive now.
 
There's some slop in the holes to see if that makes any floaty room.
I just wanna use my gas pedal without breaking a mount in 3 days.
I'll put up with some vibration to buy some time.
I'll report back.
 
What crappy mounts were you using that break in 3 days.
 
If you quit doing neutral drops, breaking them will not occur :D JK JK. Heck, doesn't take much torque to break stock type mounts. First time it happened to me was with a mild 383 in my 66 Belvedere. I nailed it and next thing I know the gas pedal is pushing back on my foot. WTH and then after letting off, it was running 40 mph by itself. I've found on some of the bigger cars, Chrysler installed a lanyard on the driver's side....and trucks got an interlocking mount.
 
IMHO, once you bolt that thing down, all slop / wiggle room goes away. Food for thought, when I bought my car, it had driver side solid mount, passenger side rubber mount. Doesn't seem to vibrate too much to me, though the car is a bit wild to drive so maybe I just never noticed.
 
What crappy mounts were you using that break in 3 days.
The one now marketed as mighty mite, with through-bolts, countersunk on one side, peened on the thread side.
Worthless against 425 lb/lbs of torque.
I did a strap around the long way about 5 years ago, that lived 5 months, then I did the same as the "mighty mite" in a machine shop at work again, lasted about 3 days.
 
Wow! I see you've tried it all. I hope that works for you.
What about using solid mounts?
If everything is tight from the engine mounts to the transmission mount as well as the cross member, where is the play coming from to allow the motor to twist enough to shear the motor mount?
 
Wow! I see you've tried it all. I hope that works for you.
What about using solid mounts?
If everything is tight from the engine mounts to the transmission mount as well as the cross member, where is the play coming from to allow the motor to twist enough to shear the motor mount?
I used to get 18 months out of standard rubber mounts in the late 70s,
even driving as a teenager.
No play, just real torque.
 
My drivers side mount looked like it was original and was disintegrated by oil. The motor was visibly tilted and when I replaced the mount last summer, it came out in 2 pieces. I don't drive it like I did the first one, so I sure hope it lasts.
 
I'm thinking about a small spacer sleeve on the bolt head side, and a longer bolt,
to let the slop remain on both ends,
to try to let the rubber work on compression, yet lock on tension load.
 
Food for thought, when I bought my car, it had driver side solid mount, passenger side rubber mount. Doesn't seem to vibrate too much to me, though the car is a bit wild to drive so maybe I just never noticed.
exact setup i have, and works very well. my air cleaner is so close to my hood, that if a mount broke, the motor would come up and damage the hood. had a 68 Mustang with a 289 that broke engine mount and pulled the power brake vacuum line out of the booster (no brakes!)
 
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