WTB Dash printed circuit board

[FU64RY]

I just found out why my fuel gauge is not working.
Printed dash cluster board is burnt in two places.
Need a good used one.
62/63 Plymouth are the same, don't know if Dodge will work.
I'll buy the whole dash if you do not want to deal with taking it apart.
Thank You
Steve

 

[gkent]

I'm only seeing one burn but anyway those are a very easy fix. Solder jumper wires upstream of the burns. Lightly sand the circuit to get the varnish off, use a fine wire for the jumper, use just enough heat to make the joint - too much will lift the circuit off the board.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Can you see the burnt spots? Have you verified no conductivity across the burnt spots? I might have a solution for you. They sell this stuff at the parts stores to repair broken rear window defoggers (the newer wire back & forth type, not the old Mopar blowers). Anyway, those kits contain a teeny-tiny little bottle of what looks like copper nail polish (even has a little brush built into the cap). That stuff conducts electricity & can be used to bridge the gap in a broken window defogger wire.....or a burnt spot in a 62/63 Plymouth dash circuit board.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I'm only seeing one burn but anyway those are a very easy fix. Solder jumper wires upstream of the burns. Lightly sand the circuit to get the varnish off, use a fine wire for the jumper, use just enough heat to make the joint - too much will lift the circuit off the board.

This works too....basically doing the same thing. Nobody will ever see the repair

 

[FU64RY]

This works too....basically doing the same thing. Nobody will ever see the repair

Awesome
thank's guys.
Here is the other one. It's for the dash lights.
It has been repaired in the past at another place with a tiny wire.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Found a repop.. Sorry didn't see that you were looking for an old one. But incase you need it. https://www.moparmall.com/Instrument-cluster-printed-circuit-board-for-all-1-p/804-007.htm

 

[FU64RY]

I'm only seeing one burn but anyway those are a very easy fix. Solder jumper wires upstream of the burns. Lightly sand the circuit to get the varnish off, use a fine wire for the jumper, use just enough heat to make the joint - too much will lift the circuit off the board.

Did the soldering and tested for continuity and everything looked good. The voltage resistor was bad also , put in one that was good.
So I put it all back and the gas gauge still does not work.
I sent a low voltage from the sending unit to the gauge and it worked.
New gas tank and new sending unit in the tank.
New ground wire to the sending unit to the frame of the car also.
Any ideas why the gas gauge does not work?

 

[gkent]

You can do a resistance test on it to ensure the problem isn't between the sender and the gauge.

 

[FU64RY]

You can do a resistance test on it to ensure the problem isn't between the sender and the gauge.

Okay! can you tell me how to proceed?

 

[gkent]

Take the sender out so you can move it. One test wire to the sender terminal, other wire to the sender body (ground). Tester set to "ohms". Move the sender and the readings should change. If not, the sender is bad.

 

[FU64RY]

I'll see if I can get it out without removing the tank.
I recently filled the tank sooooooooooo.
Thank You
I might have seen that test in my shop manual and totally forgot it was there.

 

[khryslerkid]

Check continuity on the sending unit wire too.

I have an extra Dodge Cluster but with the different guage setup between the two it's probably different.

 

[gkent]

There's a good idea ... check the continuity of the wire from the sender to the gauge first (easier than pulling the sender).

When the gauge didn't work, you had power on, correct?

 

[FU64RY]

Yep the power was on,
There is no actual wire going to the gauge, it goes to a splitter then to the circuit board.
Both are hard to get to now that I put it all back together.

 

[gkent]

Ok, you're going to have to follow the schematic in the FSM BUT the more I think about this the more I think there is NO voltage to the sender.

The sender is just a resistor and the gauge is just an ohmmeter - which measures the resistance in the circuit - not voltage. Also, when you look at the sender, the terminal attaches to an uninsulated metal strap on the inside, down to the "resistor".

So if my thinking is right, the gauge is measuring resistance in the ground circuit. The only voltage present would be at the gauge, NOT at the sender.

So check for voltage somewhere around the gauge AND check ground resistance on both terminals at the gauge. With a full tank there should be "low" resistance (but who knows what that number is !)

 

[gkent]

I'm looking at a '69 FSM. It shows 5 volts to one side of the gauge. The other side goes to the sender.

 

[FU64RY]

So I just got back from a test drive and the temp gauge is not working either. My shop manual says if both are not working then the Voltage Limiter is not working. I tested it and it was bad, so I put in a good one that tested good and the gauges still do not work. hmmmmmmmmmmmm!!!
I had to put it back together I have an appointment in the am to have the front aliened.

 

[gkent]

I don't know about your year BUT in '69 the voltage limiter puts out 5 volts and it does feed both gauges. Since they're still not working maybe you should check that there is actually voltage going into the voltage limiter.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Hey Fu64ry, now that it's all installed again, do this. Disconnect the wire at the sending unit & connect it to a good ground. Turn the key to "on". If the wiring and gage are good, the gage will peg at "full". This would mean that either A) the new sending unit is bad or B) the ground is bad at the sending unit. There should be a little "jumper clamp thing" about 4" long that bridges the ground between the fuel nipple of the sending unit & the steel fuel line (which is used to ground the sending unit).

If the gage doesn't move during your test, then either the gage is bad, the circuit board is bad, the voltage limiter is bad or the wire running from the sending unit to the gage is bad. If you burned up one voltage limiter, maybe you still have a short in the dash burning them out? Maybe see if you can pull that out & test it without removing the dash? Also, maybe you can find a connector(s) for the fuel sending unit wire and check for continuity at a couple places? I think the first connection for it is in the body wiring plug behind the driver's kick panel (I think), so you could check that section for continuity. Then look at your wiring diagram and see where else to check...maybe at the back of the gage?