LowDeck451
Well-Known Member
Was wondering if anyone could recommend an economical Dial Bore Gauge in the $250ish range? Any particular brand or model you prefer? Planning to use the mic-over method to check clearances. Thanks!
Dial Bore Gauge
- Thread starter LowDeck451
- Start date
Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
Most of the inexpensive ones will dig into the bearings. Plastigage is a really good way for most guys to check clearances.
LowDeck451
Well-Known Member
Interesting. Yeah, I'm not against using plastigage, probably will. Years ago I borrowed a machinist buddy's inexpensive bore gage and I liked it, just can't remember the brand. Thanks.
Superb Bee
Well-Known Member
What are you looking to do, check cylinder bores? Or is it for engine assembly?
I have a Fowler and it works, I think it was $100, do you already have a mic set, I think having a nice mic set is more important than a dial bore. You can get telescopic bore set for $20 and they work great, I use them over the dial gauge all the time..
When I put a motor together I don't use the dial bore gauge at all, thats more the machinists tool for what he does.
When assembling a motor I don't even take my dial bore gauge out of the box , I only use (besides basic hand tools) plasti gauges, feeler gauges, micrometer, torque wrench, ring file tool, ring compressor, cam degree wheel, valve seal tool, valve spring compressor, pushrod length checker, and a deck bridge. Thats probably $250 of tools total (minus the torque wrench and micrometer, you can spend a lot on them). and really you don't even needs all of that, lol.
But when I was putting them together myself, I would have the machine shop do everything, final hone (if a machine shop says they can bore your motor without having the pistons you are using, RUN. I have them install freeze plugs and cam bearings, check, tap and debur all holes, the guy I used to use even painted them for me in a little paint booth he had in his shop. I always had cranks cut too (even if in clearance, nothing like a new surface, screw polish and pop, he always did my rods too, sized, bolts, installed, pistons, mounted... And for the heads I had him do my valve jobs.
So I handed him, rods, bolts, cam bearings, freeze plugs, crankshaft, block with caps (freeze plugs and cam bearings still in it), heads (stripped), and new valves, then he would call me up and say "30 pistons and 10/10 on the crank" (that would be a good motor and crank) and I would buy 10 under bearings and 30 over pistons, send him the pistons and he would take care of the rest (including balancing)...
So I get handed back, a painted ready to go honed block with cam bearings and freeze plugs, head castings with my seats and valves all set, allbolt holes ready for bolts (heli 'd if they needed it, already all chased and clean), my crank cut and balanced, pistons, mounted, rod bolts installed. Life was great, but then machine shops went from thriving to dying over night
, used to be one within 25-30 miles of anywhere around here, most of the time 4 or 5 lol, now I can think of 3 total that I would consider using.
So anyway, now when you put them together the hard work is done and if you trust your machinist, you should will be good and confident. I don't put them together anymore, my attention to detail and its span has dwindled with my age, is that a butterfly?
I have a Fowler and it works, I think it was $100, do you already have a mic set, I think having a nice mic set is more important than a dial bore. You can get telescopic bore set for $20 and they work great, I use them over the dial gauge all the time..
When I put a motor together I don't use the dial bore gauge at all, thats more the machinists tool for what he does.
When assembling a motor I don't even take my dial bore gauge out of the box , I only use (besides basic hand tools) plasti gauges, feeler gauges, micrometer, torque wrench, ring file tool, ring compressor, cam degree wheel, valve seal tool, valve spring compressor, pushrod length checker, and a deck bridge. Thats probably $250 of tools total (minus the torque wrench and micrometer, you can spend a lot on them). and really you don't even needs all of that, lol.
But when I was putting them together myself, I would have the machine shop do everything, final hone (if a machine shop says they can bore your motor without having the pistons you are using, RUN. I have them install freeze plugs and cam bearings, check, tap and debur all holes, the guy I used to use even painted them for me in a little paint booth he had in his shop. I always had cranks cut too (even if in clearance, nothing like a new surface, screw polish and pop, he always did my rods too, sized, bolts, installed, pistons, mounted... And for the heads I had him do my valve jobs.
So I handed him, rods, bolts, cam bearings, freeze plugs, crankshaft, block with caps (freeze plugs and cam bearings still in it), heads (stripped), and new valves, then he would call me up and say "30 pistons and 10/10 on the crank" (that would be a good motor and crank) and I would buy 10 under bearings and 30 over pistons, send him the pistons and he would take care of the rest (including balancing)...
So I get handed back, a painted ready to go honed block with cam bearings and freeze plugs, head castings with my seats and valves all set, allbolt holes ready for bolts (heli 'd if they needed it, already all chased and clean), my crank cut and balanced, pistons, mounted, rod bolts installed. Life was great, but then machine shops went from thriving to dying over night
, used to be one within 25-30 miles of anywhere around here, most of the time 4 or 5 lol, now I can think of 3 total that I would consider using.So anyway, now when you put them together the hard work is done and if you trust your machinist, you should will be good and confident. I don't put them together anymore, my attention to detail and its span has dwindled with my age, is that a butterfly?
Last edited:
LowDeck451
Well-Known Member
Engine assembly/checking the shop's work to be on the safe side. I have mics and snap gages, and the other tools you mentioned. Thanks.
Superb Bee
Well-Known Member
I agree, if I wasn't sure of a shops work, I would check it before I leave, they should not have a problem throwing their gauge in your holes 3 of 4 times each bore. The biggest thing with putting engines together is the machine shop, its like the painter cant do a good job if the plaster didn't.
But like I said I have a fowler, and it works and they are affordable, its actually the same one my engine builder uses..
dieseldazzle
Well-Known Member
I use a fowler but I've had it for years so not sure of cost
brian6pac
Well-Known Member
Yep I use a fowler and it works great for the cylinders, I wont use snap gauges on bearings I just never get a good reading, I use a inside mic on the bearings and then use a outside mic to measure the inside mic.
LowDeck451
Well-Known Member
Yeah, it's been awhile but it seemed like I was a little inconsistent with the snap gages, then borrowed my friend's bore gage and could repeat dead on. Anyway, thanks for the input guys.
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