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"Downgrading" with New Parts

Dibbons

Well-Known Member
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Nov 29, 2014
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Location
La Paz, B.C.S., Mexico
I am replacing the turn signal switch in my '72 SSP project car today. The spring loaded horn contact in the switch I am removing had a clever little round wheel, which I was impressed with. The replacement switch only has a spring loaded pin. Tried to swap the two, but I don't think so. See first two fotos below:

The wires colors won't matter, as long as the terminals match up, but I wonder why only two of the colored wires on the new switch match the colored wires on the old switch (red, white). I wonder what went wrong there? Maybe the old switch was not original to the vehicle?

While I was working on the steering column, I noticed for the first time a tiny rubber bumper on the rotating steering lock part of the column. It seems to be there as an anti-rattle device. The bumper is on the passenger side and there is no bumper on the driver's side. I wonder if there originally were two installed from the factory? Anyway, I had never seen this rubber bumper(s) before personally, and never saw them mentioned on a forum, so I thought I would mention it (them). See second two fotos below:

DSC04251.JPG DSC04252.JPG DSC04253.JPG DSC04254.JPG
 
The newer replacement parts are definitely inferior to the original stuff ....i don't see these new pieces lasting 50+yrs ...
 
My brake/stop lights seem to be working alright (which was my main concern), but I still have the same ground/short problem as before (and I saw on a past thread somewhere that a fellow BBody member had exactly the same problem).

Both turn signals work, but something is amiss. When i turn the parking brakes or headlamps on, the green light on the dash for the right turn signal comes on (along with the fender mounted turn signal on the passenger/right side).

I already removed the right front turn signal housing off once and cleaned it up to insure a good ground, but no improvement. It also appears that the parking lamps, turn signals, brake lights on the passenger side are weaker/not as bright as those same lights on the driver's side. I will now make an appointment to have an auto/electric tech check things out. I don't give up easily, but now is the time to get help. To be continued ...
 
There is a dual filament bulb on the right side of the car that is not being grounded. First step is to locate which end of the car has the problem. Disconnect the right front turn signal/park lamp housing from the forward wiring harness, turn on the park lights, see if the turn signal indicators illuminate. If it continues, disconnect the rear bumper harness from the body harness in the trunk, left side. Try again.

I’ve found the front bulb socket can build up resistance to the housing where it crimps. The housing also depends on the mounting screws cutting into the paint on the valance to establish a ground path. I’ve added supplemental ground wires on mine to avoid having to tighten the mounting screws so tight as to damage paint.

The rear sockets were grounded through wiring to a ring connector under the bulb contact pad spring. First thing that rusts away when water sits in the tail lights.
 
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For the sake of clarity, the ground wire at the column is for the horn button relay primary circuit only. The turn signal switch and related lighting circuits do not have a need or require any grounding at the steering column.
 
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