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Electronic Ignition Replaced - Need help

real0803

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I discovered that my orginal electronic ignition finally crapped out on me and the resin was melted like butter . I didn't realize it after my car Cordoba wouldn't start . I purchased a a replacement Electronic ignition . The ones I found for my make and model was a 4 pin not a 5 pin like I have in my photo . So I found a 5 pin onn on eBay a new old stock Borg Warner brand that was for a 1976 Dodge B200 pick up truck. It fits but one thing is different . The long screw did not screw down like the old one did . Is this okay to leave it without a screw or should I get a china made one for $30 that has a screw ?it seems pretty secure without one . So after replacing the electronic ignition module it still does not start . I replaced the voltage regulator and the ballast . Any ideas on what the issue could be ?

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A screw is not absolutely needed but it does make the connection more secure. Just find a screw that will work.
 
Transfer the nut from the old one to the new one.
 
I've found that the clip nut on all of the reproduction crap just pulls off as you tighten the screw. Get some Gator Glue...glue the press in place nut plate into place. Wait a day and then screw. Yes, just like last night when she said not today...
 
Probably using a Factory 4 Prong Dual Ballast Resistor - Make sure your checking for power on the Ignition Coil side of Ballast Resistor

4 Pin Ignition Module will work just fine with a Factory Dual Ballast Resistor

Ignition Switch key in Start position - Did you check for power at the positive side of Ignition Coil

Ignition Switch key in Run position - Did you check for power at the Ballast Resistor at both terminals Ignition Coil power side - If yes , how many volts at positive side of Ignition Coil
 
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Could bee as simple bad ground on bolts of Ignition Module

Pick up coil inside distributor could bee bad also
Simple as checking reluctor gap on all eight

Ignition Coil
 
Probably using a Factory 4 Prong Dual Ballast Resistor - Make sure your checking for power on the Ignition Coil side of Ballast Resistor

4 Pin Ignition Module will work just fine with a Factory Dual Ballast Resistor

Ignition Switch key in Start position - Did you check for power at the positive side of Ignition Coil

Ignition Switch key in Run position - Did you check for power at the Ballast Resistor at both terminals Ignition Coil power side - If yes , how many volts at positive side of Ignition Coil
Positive side of the ignition coil reads 11.94

Positive side of the ballast resistor 11.94v

I also tested resistance across the ballast resistor is 1.4 ohms and 5.8 ohms .

The brown wire coming from the + ignition coil is getting .1 ohm
 
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