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End play on a roller cam

Garys1969RR

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Now after degreeing in the cam, and checking piston to valve clearance, I am setting the cam end play. After notching the cam button to fit inside the 3 allen head bolts, then of course the timing cover was flexing. So I had a metal strap welded across it, and now the water pump won't go on all the way. The metal bar is too thick. Now I have another timing cover on it's way from my sons' engine stash pile. I Called 440 source, and the tech guy said the metal plate isn't needed. They have been using the the stock cover for years with no probs. He said the only time the cam moves forward is at idle, when there is not much tension on the timing chain. So that's my experience so far with roller cams. Still working on the last step, setting the end play.
 
Gary,

I would call Milodon and get their ribbed cover. You do need the flex limiter. Also I would use the plastic cam button instead of the bearing piece, they are known to fail. Makes ure you have oil slinger installed properly it's easy to miss. I would also you Moly lube for the start up on the button or bearing..
 
Thanks! Yes I am using a Comp Cams white nylon button. I Don't trust the roller/ ball bearing one either. And I will get some Moly lube for the button.
 
i was rewatching an episode from TV show "engine power" from 2 yrs ago 50th Hemi anniversary. Indy cylinder head built a 572 Hemi with a roller cam, used and out of the box steel timing cover, no reinforcement that i noticed, just put in on the dyno and made 750 HP on pump gas.

it this timing cover issue really an issue?

i was thinking about going to the 440source cast piece
 
The best one to use is the AREngineering billet cover.

http://www.manciniracing.com/mabbialtico.html

The 440 source fabricated one I use in a budget build, but it requires more labor because the dowel and bolt holes don't line up great and the front seal doesn't center over the damper. 440 source told me to pull the alignment dowels and bolt it up. Not going to do that. Spent some time with files and a dial indicator to get it right. Sometimes it takes a couple hours with interruptions.

http://store.440source.com/Fabricated-Aluminum-Timing-Cover/productinfo/200-1089/
 
I originally used a stock stamped cover on the engine build for my '62 sedan. After a thousand miles or so the top of one of the lifters where the link bar attaches broke and of course the lifters turned and destroyed the cam. I was concerned that excessive cam walk may have been the problem. When I installed the new cam I used this: http://www.manciniracing.com/mabbialtico.html
Although it's a little pricey it makes setting end play much more accurate and a lot easier. And it fits behind the water pump housing with no problems. Yeah, it's expensive but I consider it cheap insurance.
 
I originally used a stock stamped cover on the engine build for my '62 sedan. After a thousand miles or so the top of one of the lifters where the link bar attaches broke and of course the lifters turned and destroyed the cam. I was concerned that excessive cam walk may have been the problem. When I installed the new cam I used this: http://www.manciniracing.com/mabbialtico.html
Although it's a little pricey it makes setting end play much more accurate and a lot easier. And it fits behind the water pump housing with no problems. Yeah, it's expensive but I consider it cheap insurance.
That's two of us for AREngineering.
 
Now after degreeing in the cam, and checking piston to valve clearance, I am setting the cam end play. After notching the cam button to fit inside the 3 allen head bolts, then of course the timing cover was flexing. So I had a metal strap welded across it, and now the water pump won't go on all the way. The metal bar is too thick. Now I have another timing cover on it's way from my sons' engine stash pile. I Called 440 source, and the tech guy said the metal plate isn't needed. They have been using the the stock cover for years with no probs. He said the only time the cam moves forward is at idle, when there is not much tension on the timing chain. So that's my experience so far with roller cams. Still working on the last step, setting the end play.

I had the same problem with my 512 stroker and did not want to spend a fortune on a cover to prevent cam walking. I knew the cam bearing was going to rest against the inside of the cam cover and may or may not cause a bulge in time. I was not worried about the bearing wearing though the cover due to it's quality and construction - it is well oiled and aircraft quality. I should mention that mine is an actual bearing not a plastic button. I plotted the exact center of the cam on the back of the water pump housing and drilled a hole in the housing for a shallow 5/16 NFT set screw to protrude against the timing cover ( exactly at the center of the cam position ) and lightly push against it until I achieved .008 movement towards the rear of the engine. The set screw was coated with PTFF flexible sealant to prevent coolant leakage. Adjustment of the screw is accomplished by removing the water pump and using a T-handle allen wrench to move the set screw in or out. The cover moves ever so slightly ( .050 in. ) inwards. This worked just fine for me but like I said previously, my pilot is an actual bearing not a button althoug I see no reason why this wouldn't work for both. Prior to installing the intake I set the cam free play using a dial indicator against the edge of one cam lobe and adjusted the set screw accordingly. Starting with the cam lightly pried into the rear most position I adjusted the set screw until the furthest forward position of the cam was .008 to .010 as recommended by the cam manufacturer.
 
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While on the subject the Ar product is really good looking. Can you guys explain the procedure to set end play. I am going to buy this cover for my Hemi.
 
While on the subject the Ar product is really good looking. Can you guys explain the procedure to set end play. I am going to buy this cover for my Hemi.
I welded a big stainless washer that has a smaller hole in it, off center inside my chain cover. a lot of trouble to figure out button thickness for the end play, but what isn`t on a stroker motor?
 
Years ago in my bracket racing days with most of my motors, I used the torrington bearing between the timing gear & block. Machining the timing gear was required & I used a roller bearing cam button. I used a stock timing cover with reinforcing steel flat stock welded to the outside of the cover after properly setting the thrust clearance. Worked fine for thousands of runs.
 
Years ago in my bracket racing days with most of my motors, I used the torrington bearing between the timing gear & block. Machining the timing gear was required & I used a roller bearing cam button. I used a stock timing cover with reinforcing steel flat stock welded to the outside of the cover after properly setting the thrust clearance. Worked fine for thousands of runs.

So if you had to change the gasket on the timing cover later on, wouldn't that change the clearance for the cam flotation? All gaskets are not the same thickness, some as much as .020. It must have been hard to get the horizontal movement clearance just right for the cam. How thick was that flat stock anyway and how did you come to the exact thickness required and flat enough to contact the bearing squarely? I'm also curious about the ones who use washers. My cam manufacturer specifically called for .008 to .010 for cam movement and that was with a torrington bearing also. Hope you people don't grind your ring gap as well - some numbers for clearances are very specific and should be adhered to as closely as possible.
 
Well I took my cover back to the welding shop, and they removed 1/8 inch from the re enforcing strap. Now it looks as if the water pump housing back will rest directly against the metal piece, holding the timing cover from flexing out when the cam button hits the inside of the cover. Lots of ways to address this problem. Thanks for all the replies! Now I can bolt it all together and set the end play. Involves several off and on cycles with the water pump.
 
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I didn't use a gasket, just RTV. The flat stock was 1/8" thick & the triangular dimple was flat on the outside. It worked for me with 3 different solid roller cams & several solids for thousands of runs at 7000+ RPM. Do what works for you.
 
Well I took my cover back to the welding shop, and they removed 1/8 inch from the re enforcing strap. Now it looks as if the water pump housing back will rest directly against the metal piece, holding the timing cover from flexing out when the cam button hits the inside of the cover. Lots of ways to address this problem. Thanks for all the replies! Now I can bolt it all together and set the end play. Involves several off and on cycles with the water pump.
I welded a washer on the outside. Then glued water pump gaskets to the block. Fit th epump housing to the block. Grind a little off the pump housing as needed until the cover just clears, simple, cheap. Your fix was very similar.
Doug
 
Wow this setting end play has been quite a job. Finally got it close, after my son and I spent all day working on it. It seems like every time you take the water pump and timing cover off, something changes. Finally ended up using 2 gaskets on the water pump, for additional clearance. Got to be a better way. I like the idea of a set screw in back of the water pump, bearing against a washer welded to the cover. If there was a way to adjust it with the pump on there, that would be nice.
 
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