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Fitech wiring

70Barracuda

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Hello everyone,
Trying to find the best and easiest way to wire fitch ignition.

I have a 600 hp no timing control unit using a ready to run no external box distributor in my 1970 originally wired for points then re wired to electronic many years ago Mopar.

This can't be that difficult can it?

Thanks
Tim
 
I think the TAC input to the FI would just be the coil negative (-) (blue wire of FI Tech 6-pin connector)? if the FI is not controlling the ignition.
 
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Trying to find which wires from my car and how to use them.
Thanks
 
I have that. Wondering if anyone knows which wires those are in the engine wiring harness?
 
Trying to find which wires from my car and how to use them.
Thanks

Blue to the distributor side of the coil
Red to the Battery directly
Orange to the Fuel Pump (I would run a dedicated ground from the fuel pump back to the machined flange on the TBI unit bolt (machined for good electrical contact)
White to a switched battery voltage. I used the battery side of the ballast resistor.

Jim
 
I have that. Wondering if anyone knows which wires those are in the engine wiring harness?

I don’t have an oem wiring diagram handy but you need to trace them out in the harness anyway.

Blue wire to Coil (-) is easy as it’s right there.

White wire depends. Sounds like the ballast resistor is gone, if so, the white wire hooks right to coil (+), as it’s hot in run and start. If the ballast resistor is still there, it’s a bit more complex.

Big red wire right to battery (+)

Black wire right to ground

Rest is new so won’t hook to anything in the harness.
 
I am switching from a FBO ignition to fitech. Been running w th FBO but its not running quite right, have been informed the FBO is not compatable so. I have the ballest still there but has been jumped for the FBO. All that wiring is still there.

Is there 12 v key on and cranking on those ballast wires?

Sorry if I am making this more than it is
 
I am switching from a FBO ignition to fitech. Been running w th FBO but its not running quite right, have been informed the FBO is not compatable so. I have the ballest still there but has been jumped for the FBO. All that wiring is still there.

Is there 12 v key on and cranking on those ballast wires?

Sorry if I am making this more than it is

Yup that is where I am hooked into.
 
Okay here is what I found.
After cutting away I have 2 wires. Blue has key on 12v and brown has cranking 12v coming out of the bulkhead. I assume I connect these two together with the white fitech wire?

Also, I switched to a 1 wire alternator sometime back. Ever since then I have a battery drain. The voltage regulator plug and 2 field wires have been hanging free. Those are inline with the blue wire. If I cut those out and leave myself with just the brown and blue will that stop my battery drain?
 
Okay here is what I found.
After cutting away I have 2 wires. Blue has key on 12v and brown has cranking 12v coming out of the bulkhead. I assume I connect these two together with the white fitech wire?

Also, I switched to a 1 wire alternator sometime back. Ever since then I have a battery drain. The voltage regulator plug and 2 field wires have been hanging free. Those are inline with the blue wire. If I cut those out and leave myself with just the brown and blue will that stop my battery drain?

1) Just use the Blue ballast resistor wire to the FiTech White wire.
2) Impossible to say
 
The blue doesn't have 12v cranking the fiteh instructions says it must have. What do you have your brown doing?
 
The blue doesn't have 12v cranking the fiteh instructions says it must have. What do you have your brown doing?

Apologies, was running off memory. Yes the Blue and Brown are tied together at the resistor and you can connect them all and run it to the FiTech white.
 
once you have it hooked up and running make sure you have at least 13 volts. I had issue with my voltage dropping below 13 volts when my electric fans turned on. had to replace the alternator and resistor. now I have to check with the light on and fans running.
 
my engine start misfiring when the voltage dropped below 13 volts.
 
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