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Front wheels toeing in

6290988

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When I pull into a driveway with a higher elevation like most driveways in subdivisions where you have a sidewalk, I pull in at an angle most times which causes the suspension to extend out usually. After I notice the wheels toe in. If I drive a mile or so they level back out.

The shocks aren't the greatest so I've ordered new ones. I've only had the car a week. The front bushings look to be okay. The steering is tight and I can take my hands off of the steering wheel and it will drive straight for miles.

So shocks?
 
Shocks don't have anything to do with your front end geometry. All they do is dampen the "bounce" of the suspension.

I've seen these chrysler front ends do some funky things. When going into turns, at the drags when pulling the front wheels off the ground, looks like there is something wrong with the suspension but it's not. Just the nature of the beast and in the design in most cases.

As long as it's tracking true, not cutting tires, not screeching tires too much on taking turns, it should be ok. Just do a good inspection on all of the components to make sure there isn't anything worn.
 
After driving it and sitting on level ground, you can measure toe with a tape measure. It's not the most accurate thing but it'll tell you if you're close or not.
 
Weird but thanks. First b body and first mopar so still trying to figure it out.

The shocks are old so tomorrow I'm putting new ones on. When I have it up on the jack stands I'll inspect all the components up front. Might need to degrease everything first. Previous owner said it doesn't leak oil and it does. Not much but enough to cover the front suspension with residue over the years.

I have receipts from the late 90's, early 2000's. The suspension was redone in 2000 by a shop in Indiana. According to the receipt the car had 51000 miles on it when it was done. 17 years later and it now only has 58000 miles.

Might need to look into a front suspension rebuild kit.
 
After driving it and sitting on level ground, you can measure toe with a tape measure. It's not the most accurate thing but it'll tell you if you're close or not.

What is toe suppose to be when everything is good?
 
I may be using the wrong term. Not toe in or toe out. The bottoms of the tires point in so camber?
 
1/8th inch toe in max.....
 
I may be using the wrong term. Not toe in or toe out. The bottoms of the tires point in so camber?
If the tops of the tires lean outward vs the bottom....then you have positive camber. I like a good deal of negative myself but the book calls for nearly 0. Of course, the specs are for bias ply tires.
 
If you're looking at the car from the front the tires point like this. Maybe not this extreme but a couple inches....enough to notice.

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When I click on your link, it says the requested page does not exist....
 
If the tops of the tires lean outward vs the bottom....then you have positive camber. I like a good deal of negative myself but the book calls for nearly 0. Of course, the specs are for bias ply tires.


What would cause it to have positive when the suspension travels a lot? It evens it self out after I drive to what appears 0 camber.
 
If your tires are 'looking at each other' that much when looking at them from the front, it's way too much toe in.....
 
What would cause it to have positive when the suspension travels a lot? It evens it self out after I drive to what appears 0 camber.
It really doesn't matter what the suspension does during it's travel but it matters where it's sitting when the adjustments are done. If it's adjusted right at static, it'll do right during it's travel....
 
It's not toeing in or out. That crappy drawling is suppose to be looking at it if you were sitting in front of the car. It's positive camber, I used the wrong term earlier. It's only positive camber after long suspension travel and than it evens itself out after driving down the road about mile down the road.
 
If you jack up the front of most of these Chryslers, the wheels will hang like in your illustration. You let the jack down, they stay like that until you roll the car a few feet, then they straighten back to normal.

When you're pulling into your driveway, it's almost doing the same thing as when you jack up the car, it unloads the suspension.

It shouldn't take a mile down the road to straighten out, only a few feet. Your upper bushings might be tight, or your shocks are tight for some reason. Normally worn shocks are loose, with no resistance.
 
I say a mile but I guess I really don't know. I drive through my neighborhood at 15 mph because of all the kids. Maybe it takes a couple bumps at normal speed to even it out. I'll look at everything when I put the new shocks on tomorrow.
 
If you jack up the front of the car where the tires are off the ground and set it back down, they will not be where they are supposed to be but if you roll the car forward a few feet, they will go where they should be. It doesn't take any driving or bumps to make them go back to where they are adjusted to be.
 
If you jack up the front of the car where the tires are off the ground and set it back down, they will not be where they are supposed to be but if you roll the car forward a few feet, they will go where they should be. It doesn't take any driving or bumps to make them go back to where they are adjusted to be.


Okay, so mine doesn't do that. My driveway is about 60 feet long. I pull in the drive way and by the time I get in the garage the tires are still positive camber. I've left and got gas a mile away and they were 0 camber.

I'll inspect the control arms, ball joints and other suspension components tomorrow. Hopefully nothing major.
 
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