• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Has anyone ever had a leak free Mopar???

Mine is leak-free right now . . .

Of course, it has no engine, no transmission, no rear end and is completely "gutted" at this moment in time . . .

But it's still leak free ! ! !

Ditto with my '50 Panel Van... It does have an '06 HEMI and NAG1 auto trans, but nothing is hooked up right now and nothing leaks:)

20170520_201329.jpg
 
I've had several.
67 Coronet didn't leak anything.
73 Duster didn't either.
My satellite didn't until the freeze plugs went, now only the torque converter seal does.

You want to talk about difficult to stop leaks.....

ford PS power piston to linkage. GOD AWFUL design- prone to leak if you look at it wrong and difficult and expensive to stop.
 
So has anyone ever tried machining o ring grooves in the oil pan surface to fight the leaks? Or the rear main?
 
I had an '80 LeBaron slant six that didn't leak, but that car was destroyed before it was four years old. My '99 Grand Cherokee 4.0 didn't leak, but my '94 Cherokee 4.0 did. My '68 Barracuda 318 didn't leak. My '04 Neon R/T has only recently started leaking. My '15 Challenger is still tight and dry.
 
Sometimes it's from sitting to long,some gaskets
take what I call a set
Meaning a flat spot where shaft sits in one spot
to long on seal.
Leaks development from that.
 
The 70 383 Challenger and the 71 340 Cuda nor the 66 /6 Belvedere leaked even when they were 30 years old. The Cuda had a rebuilt engine but the Challenger and Belvedere were originals. Don't have the E cars anymore though :( The 95 Dakota didn't start leaking until about 3 years ago but it was small and looked like it was coming from a valve cover. Now it's leaking from the speedometer sensor and getting worse. The 96 doesn't leak but have no idea what all has been done to it since it's only been in my possession for a year now. The 95 was bought new by my dad. The diesel has been leak free too.
 
It's called Horse Power Sweat!

My '62 sat in the garage all winter without a drop. Then a few weeks ago I jack up the front, then the back with stands on all four corners. The car is setting level and the back of the pan starts leaking just a drop or two. This leak comes from not filling in the rear seal retainer bolt holes before putting on the pan gasket. That's taken care of now because I replaced the pan with a different one and filled the holes this time. The rear seal and side seals are dry.

Then the throttle shaft on the trans starts leaking. So I replaced the seal while I had the car up on stands. The seal was only two years old and I'm thinking that jacking the car up started a torque converter drain back that overfilled the trans and revealed the worn seal. So for the time being everything is dry under there!

(I missed this ancient thread somehow)
 
My 2000 Dakota is only 5 years away from being a "classic".

It doesn't leak.
 
While I am sure there are some out there somewhere, in my experience it is unlikely and a bit relative; meaning that while the term "leak" is pretty straightforward, I have noticed that many owners tend to put caveats on it such as not counting weeping seals or being very meticulous about keeping them clean. That said, I do believe that a high quality very meticulous builder can achieve a leak free build but it has to start with everything apart and a very careful examination of each component with an eye towards achieving a tight seal. We tend to rely on how the factory did things and replace gaskets when things leak, but many times this proves ineffectual and this is due to poor or damaged surfaces. I will say that there are some new gasket sealers developed for modern cars that can and do seal exceptionally well.
 
I’ve had my oil pan off 3, or 4 times. I’ve tried everything recommended here such as Moroso blue silicone aluminum framed gaskets, cork Felpro, Right Stuff, etc. Always had a leak out the front and seeping at the corners. Tried the tack hammer and wood block to true the surfaces of the pan. Tried it all.

So far, this was the best fix as recommend by my colleague mechanical engineer car guys:

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyota-00295-00103-Formed-Place/dp/B000EDDTV0

I was told not to be neat and be certain to be overly generous applying the stuff. So far, I have some seepage around the timing chain cover on the passenger side, but the drips are gone. It's not pretty down there, but the results are pleasing.
 
Bought a brand new Charger in April 1970. Within a month I had a puddle of oil under the engine. Brought back to the dealership and they fixed it. Said it was the rear main seal ( 318 engine ). I didn't even know what that meant. 4 years ago I bought my present 1970 charger (383) engine. GUESS WHAT !
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top