Always a great feeling to get something resolved that did not want to work properly - nicely done !
That carb and in tank pump is incredible, looks awesome . . . too bad the rarely get seen !
*****************Keep this thread going, interested !No doubt. shiniest parts of the car are under it...
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Or inside the fuel tank
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Always a great feeling to get something resolved that did not want to work properly - nicely done !
I think that was the biggest motivation for keeping the sender... that and I'm a glutton for punishment.
My congrats on making the jump to the 22nd century! Dialed in properly with that FiTech and you'll never look back, well, except for a Wagner PCV valve. Nice work!Along the way, figured I'd finally fix that dang fuel sender that only registers half on a full tank. In the ultimate example of pig headedness, decided to keep this Chinese POS as a fuel sender, though its use as a pickup are over.
Turns out I had a few issues...
dang float was half full of gas so I found a replacement on eBay ..
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Then the pickup needed some tweaking... it was too high off the bottom of the tank so sucked air with 3 gal of fuel still in the tank, but it also made the float hit the top of the tank at 3/4 full. The end of the pickup was also turned up a bit...
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With that out of the way, the sender itself wouldn't allow full travel, so I tweaked the limit tab...
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And the results in a dry test don't lie, let's hope
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My congrats on making the jump to the 22nd century! Dialed in properly with that FiTech and you'll never look back, well, except for a Wagner PCV valve. Nice work!
Dialed in properly with that FiTech and you'll never look back, well, except for a Wagner PCV valve.
I really like the idea of spacing the tank down to avoid cutting a hole in truck, safer and just makes good sense to me.. HT are you ruinning duel lines to body from tank to Injection??
Here's a tip that I found very helpful. I have a custom tank and have an in-tank pump as well, and I found that it was a pain having to drop the tank a little just to reach the fittings and remove the lines when I had to remove the tank. So I made a bracket with three bulkhead fittings, and I added 1 zip tie on each side for the feed line, 2 zip ties for the return line, and left the vent line without zip ties. Now it's easier to drop the tank, and when reconnecting the lines it's easy to match them up (you can also use different colored fittings, I suppose, but the zip ties are cheap).here's a shot of how I setup the in-tank kit. Routed the tubing away from any future tail pipes.
Decided to space the tank down a bit to account for the height of the pump rather than cutting a hole in the trunk pan... turns out a synthetic deck spindle was just right, though later I did add a couple of rubber strips similar to OEM just for a margin of error (not pictured).
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Here's a tip that I found very helpful. I have a custom tank and have an in-tank pump as well, and I found that it was a pain having to drop the tank a little just to reach the fittings and remove the lines when I had to remove the tank. So I made a bracket with three bulkhead fittings, and I added 1 zip tie on each side for the feed line, 2 zip ties for the return line, and left the vent line without zip ties. Now it's easier to drop the tank, and when reconnecting the lines it's easy to match them up (you can also use different colored fittings, I suppose, but the zip ties are cheap).
This was the first pass... I just used aluminum I had laying around after making a cardboard template. Later when I went to solid fuel lines, I realized that marking the lines with the zip ties made it easier to match them up. Now I just disconnect the lines at this bracket and I can drop the tank without messing with the connections at the pump hat.
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Ingenius idea!LOL... I had a fuel pump issue at first, then a fuel tank problem, and then went to a Rick's Tanks custom tank. After having dropped the tank multiple times this was one of those 'mother of invention' necessities.
Another thing... if you do something like this, obviously the bolts go through the interior, and the nut mounts from under the car. To make this a one-man job, I cut a groove into the end of the bolt before I fed them through the sheet metal. These bolts are behind the rear seat, out of the way of everything. After sliding the brackets over the bolts, I started the nuts and a slotted screwdriver allowed me to tighten the nuts down.
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I would think it would get most of it`s info from one tube that way. But-----------------Decided to put the o2 sensor in the collector for now... gonna be replacing the exhaust soon enough so i figered I'd do it as an experiment. Fitech said it will work fine but we'll see.
Had our welding students put the bung in... went a little nuts with the wire brush but I'd rather a mistake of aggressiveness rather than a mistake of laziness any time...
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