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How's about a little fuel injection?

HT413

Semi Pro Bowler
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Pulled the trigger a few weeks ago and finally found some time for the install on the 451.

Went with the fitech Go EFI 4 which is a 4 injector 600HP throttle body

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their in-tank kit is as beautiful as the throttle body.

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Think she's smiling...

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Along the way, figured I'd finally fix that dang fuel sender that only registers half on a full tank. In the ultimate example of pig headedness, decided to keep this Chinese POS as a fuel sender, though its use as a pickup are over.


Turns out I had a few issues...

dang float was half full of gas so I found a replacement on eBay ..
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Then the pickup needed some tweaking... it was too high off the bottom of the tank so sucked air with 7 gal of fuel still in the tank, but it also made the float hit the top of the tank at 3/4 full. The end of the pickup was also turned up a bit...

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With that out of the way, the sender itself wouldn't allow full travel, so I tweaked the limit tab...
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And the results in a dry test don't lie, let's hope

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Always a great feeling to get something resolved that did not want to work properly - nicely done !

That carb and in tank pump is incredible, looks awesome . . . too bad the rarely get seen !
 
Always a great feeling to get something resolved that did not want to work properly - nicely done !

That carb and in tank pump is incredible, looks awesome . . . too bad the rarely get seen !

No doubt. shiniest parts of the car are under it...

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Or inside the fuel tank

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Always a great feeling to get something resolved that did not want to work properly - nicely done !

I think that was the biggest motivation for keeping the sender... that and I'm a glutton for punishment.
 
Decided to put the o2 sensor in the collector for now... gonna be replacing the exhaust soon enough so i figered I'd do it as an experiment. Fitech said it will work fine but we'll see.

Had our welding students put the bung in... went a little nuts with the wire brush but I'd rather a mistake of aggressiveness rather than a mistake of laziness any time...

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Along the way, figured I'd finally fix that dang fuel sender that only registers half on a full tank. In the ultimate example of pig headedness, decided to keep this Chinese POS as a fuel sender, though its use as a pickup are over.


Turns out I had a few issues...

dang float was half full of gas so I found a replacement on eBay ..
View attachment 524363

Then the pickup needed some tweaking... it was too high off the bottom of the tank so sucked air with 3 gal of fuel still in the tank, but it also made the float hit the top of the tank at 3/4 full. The end of the pickup was also turned up a bit...

View attachment 524368

With that out of the way, the sender itself wouldn't allow full travel, so I tweaked the limit tab...
View attachment 524366

And the results in a dry test don't lie, let's hope

View attachment 524365
My congrats on making the jump to the 22nd century! Dialed in properly with that FiTech and you'll never look back, well, except for a Wagner PCV valve. Nice work!
 
here's a shot of how I setup the in-tank kit. Routed the tubing away from any future tail pipes.

Decided to space the tank down a bit to account for the height of the pump rather than cutting a hole in the trunk pan... turns out a synthetic deck spindle was just right, though later I did add a couple of rubber strips similar to OEM just for a margin of error (not pictured).

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My congrats on making the jump to the 22nd century! Dialed in properly with that FiTech and you'll never look back, well, except for a Wagner PCV valve. Nice work!

Lol thanks. Yeah can't wait to get this thing on the road. My Holley 750 was a bit undersized but ran great. Now the motor will have all the CFM it needs and a tune that should rival a decent dyno session.
 
Dialed in properly with that FiTech and you'll never look back, well, except for a Wagner PCV valve.

Tell me more about this Wagner PCV. I know the purpose of a PCV, but never thought much about it beyond a factory type.
 
I really like the idea of spacing the tank down to avoid cutting a hole in truck, safer and just makes good sense to me.. HT are you ruinning duel braided lines to body from tank to Injection?? The vent is it going by the tank back??
 
I really like the idea of spacing the tank down to avoid cutting a hole in truck, safer and just makes good sense to me.. HT are you ruinning duel lines to body from tank to Injection??

Yeah we're only talking an inch or so and only on the front end... bumper side needs no change. not even noticeable. Besides, sheet metal-wise, the trunk floor is the best part of my car!

Yeah, in fact I'm just taking a break right now from running the fuel and return lines. The third one on the pump housing is a vent - even though the tank has a couple a vents, decided to use the one on the pump housing.
 
here's a shot of how I setup the in-tank kit. Routed the tubing away from any future tail pipes.

Decided to space the tank down a bit to account for the height of the pump rather than cutting a hole in the trunk pan... turns out a synthetic deck spindle was just right, though later I did add a couple of rubber strips similar to OEM just for a margin of error (not pictured).

View attachment 524601 View attachment 524602
Here's a tip that I found very helpful. I have a custom tank and have an in-tank pump as well, and I found that it was a pain having to drop the tank a little just to reach the fittings and remove the lines when I had to remove the tank. So I made a bracket with three bulkhead fittings, and I added 1 zip tie on each side for the feed line, 2 zip ties for the return line, and left the vent line without zip ties. Now it's easier to drop the tank, and when reconnecting the lines it's easy to match them up (you can also use different colored fittings, I suppose, but the zip ties are cheap).

This was the first pass... I just used aluminum I had laying around after making a cardboard template. Later when I went to solid fuel lines, I realized that marking the lines with the zip ties made it easier to match them up. Now I just disconnect the lines at this bracket and I can drop the tank without messing with the connections at the pump hat.
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Here's a tip that I found very helpful. I have a custom tank and have an in-tank pump as well, and I found that it was a pain having to drop the tank a little just to reach the fittings and remove the lines when I had to remove the tank. So I made a bracket with three bulkhead fittings, and I added 1 zip tie on each side for the feed line, 2 zip ties for the return line, and left the vent line without zip ties. Now it's easier to drop the tank, and when reconnecting the lines it's easy to match them up (you can also use different colored fittings, I suppose, but the zip ties are cheap).

This was the first pass... I just used aluminum I had laying around after making a cardboard template. Later when I went to solid fuel lines, I realized that marking the lines with the zip ties made it easier to match them up. Now I just disconnect the lines at this bracket and I can drop the tank without messing with the connections at the pump hat.
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Brilliant. I was dreading the day a few years down the line when I have to drop this baby.
 
LOL... I had a fuel pump issue at first, then a fuel tank problem, and then went to a Rick's Tanks custom tank. After having dropped the tank multiple times this was one of those 'mother of invention' necessities.

Another thing... if you do something like this, obviously the bolts go through the interior, and the nut mounts from under the car. To make this a one-man job, I cut a groove into the end of the bolt before I fed them through the sheet metal. These bolts are behind the rear seat, out of the way of everything. After sliding the brackets over the bolts, I started the nuts and a slotted screwdriver allowed me to tighten the nuts down.
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LOL... I had a fuel pump issue at first, then a fuel tank problem, and then went to a Rick's Tanks custom tank. After having dropped the tank multiple times this was one of those 'mother of invention' necessities.

Another thing... if you do something like this, obviously the bolts go through the interior, and the nut mounts from under the car. To make this a one-man job, I cut a groove into the end of the bolt before I fed them through the sheet metal. These bolts are behind the rear seat, out of the way of everything. After sliding the brackets over the bolts, I started the nuts and a slotted screwdriver allowed me to tighten the nuts down.
View attachment 524939
Ingenius idea!
 
Decided to put the o2 sensor in the collector for now... gonna be replacing the exhaust soon enough so i figered I'd do it as an experiment. Fitech said it will work fine but we'll see.

Had our welding students put the bung in... went a little nuts with the wire brush but I'd rather a mistake of aggressiveness rather than a mistake of laziness any time...

View attachment 524390
I would think it would get most of it`s info from one tube that way. But-----------------
 
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