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I just bought this Drag car

More bad news. While I was tightening the boats to the safety loop I notice the paint was flaking up on the floor next to the seat. I moved the paint away & it exposed a long crack in the floor. Most likely because the car was raced without a backbrace. My welding skills are marginal at best so now I need to take the car to a welder to have the crack repaired
 
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I installed an alunimum manual steering box from a 66 B body. I had to flip the center link as it was hitting the oil pan. Also the pitman arm is hitting the lower control arm on hard left. Car is on jack stands. I have 3 3/4 turns but it won't turn to the left as far so I'm going to grind a small notch in the pitman arm. Should give me a bit more. Maybe a tiny bit off the control arm as well. Saved 20 pounds plus the pump.
 
I didn't know they came in aluminum! Nice! Can you get them new.
 
OK cool, um, under what car, year make model etc....?
Pretty much all the 65-71 manual boxes where aluminum. The V8 cars had a bigger sector shaft & bigger bearings. Flaming River makes a steel box with a quicker ratio. It's EXPEN$IVE though.
 
Good point!
I think that shaft is way too short.

C'mon Bobtile . . . don't make me have to warn you that it's not polite to be telling people on this site that their shaft is too short . . . be nice ! ! !
 
Pretty much all the 65-71 manual boxes where aluminum. The V8 cars had a bigger sector shaft & bigger bearings. Flaming River makes a steel box with a quicker ratio. It's EXPEN$IVE though.

Thanks. Any Issues with connecting to a P/S steering column?
FWIW, I have. '79 Magnum.
 
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Now that the aluminum steering box is in I remove the tie rods & cleaned them up. Checked them to make sure they where still tight & installed these super HIPO red tie Rod boots that should cut the ET's by a tenth.
 
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Then I addressed the issue of the pitman arm hitting the left lower control arm on full left. I had 3 3/4 turns lock to lock. It clearly wasen't turning as far to the left. So I got my grinder & file out & shaved 1/16 off the pitman & an unmeasurable amount off the control arm. It worked as now I have 4 1/2 turns lock to lock. It still hits but now it looks like the wheels turn the same amount in both directions.
 
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Then on the the manual master cylinder. I bought an adapter & it didn't fit so I had to drill 2 holes in the firewall brake master bulkhead & oval the hole the push rod go's through. Master mocked up & the adjustable push rod I bought was WAY to long so I cut it down & cut some more threads on the other end & now it fits nicely & the brake pedal is in a good position. I still have adjustability in either direction. Next will be the line lock control. Its comming right along nicely
 
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Yes I noticed that too. It's all tight though. Judging by the surface rust it looks like it's been in there a while. I'll check to see if there are any wrench marks on the rear u joint bolts
PLEASE ! pull that driveshaft out and check how far the yoke is going up on the tail shaft. Just that little effort could save a lot of grief .............................MO
 
PLEASE ! pull that driveshaft out and check how far the yoke is going up on the tail shaft. Just that little effort could save a lot of grief .............................MO
Oh I've already got another drive shaft for the car. Just haven't installed it yet
 
It looks like the shaft is to short. Honestly I would modify the loop to fit up closer to the joint. That far back sends big chunks of the shaft threw the floor!! I've learned that personally
when they come out in chunks and cut a 14x32 on the top end , ur in trouble , big time! ask me how I know ! Think GOD straightened it up, I couldn`t.
 
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