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Low deck 470 with TF 270 heads - 775

wicked build! speaking of low decks, I have a question. Is it worth building a 383 stroker (431)? or should I just ditch the block and go 400 or even more, a 440? original block for the car so I thought it may be cool to keep the 383. what are your thoughts?
 
wicked build! speaking of low decks, I have a question. Is it worth building a 383 stroker (431)? or should I just ditch the block and go 400 or even more, a 440? original block for the car so I thought it may be cool to keep the 383. what are your thoughts?
Keep the 383 on a pallet in the corner of your garage Incase you decide to sell the car. Build a 440 or 400
 
wicked build! speaking of low decks, I have a question. Is it worth building a 383 stroker (431)? or should I just ditch the block and go 400 or even more, a 440? original block for the car so I thought it may be cool to keep the 383. what are your thoughts?

Build a stroked 400 low-deck. Start with the best foundation, as parts/machining costs will be identical.
 
Cheaper to build what you already have.

Almost cheaper to buy a rotating assembly from 440 source vs getting your crank crack checked/turned/ balanced, buying rod bolts, crack checking/resizing rods, buying Pistons, rings, and bearings.

For street engines

383-431 is a good combo. Some say the smaller bore schrouds the valves. Haven't noticed this.
400-451 is a great set up
400-470 may need aftermarket heads to work right
440 is great
 
Cheaper to build what you already have.

Almost cheaper to buy a rotating assembly from 440 source vs getting your crank crack checked/turned/ balanced, buying rod bolts, crack checking/resizing rods, buying Pistons, rings, and bearings.

For street engines

383-431 is a good combo. Some say the smaller bore schrouds the valves. Haven't noticed this.
400-451 is a great set up
400-470 may need aftermarket heads to work right
440 is great

Sorry to hijack this thread. I’m just about to buy some e street heads for my 383. would these still be acceptable for a 431 or stroked 400 or would they be too small? Stroking the engine may come in about a year but I wanted to start with some decent street heads and rocker setup.
 
THANK YOU ANDY :popcorn:

No problem, I enjoyed the testing. I think I'm going to put a slightly larger cam in it for the next round of testing and then convert it to EFI next year. I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
 
I'd go with the 400 stroked to 470 myself but I'm kinda partial/bias opinion

#5 Rod Top Front.jpg
 
Is that out of the box heads or additional porting?
Those Wilson manifolds really seem to pick up the power.
Also, any opinion on the Comp HXL/HXX lobes? My first cam in the 500' stroker was 264/264 HXL lobes on 112 LSA and it made really good torque, but the top end power curve looked like I was having valve train issues.
When I rebuilt the engine I used the HXL lobes but 272/278 on 110 LSA in at 108, but used 0.120 wall pushrods and stiffer PAC-1326 valve springs. Seems to be more stable, but not sure if I over did the spring pressures.
I think it might run better changing the 1.6:1 exhaust to a 1.5:1 ratio?
 
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Heads are out of the box. We took them apart and checked all of the clearances and inspected the parts and then put them back together. No machine work or porting.
The HXL and HXX lobes are aggressive but I haven't seen any problem at 7000 rpm. I'm using T&D rocker arms which are excellent as well as 3/8 x 083 pushrods from Smith Bros.
 
IMO, a larger bore engine will always trump the smaller bore engine with all else being equal. You can run larger valves with the large bore engine and not suffer from the shrouding of the smaller bore. Keep in mind that the 400 block has a bit larger bore than the 440......
 
I did a 383 with 426 crank for 426- 440 rods
and tight quench pop up pistons on the chamber side-- ported stock heads
was a superbird matching number thing
If not a matching number build then build a 400 or 440 stroker
power is in the heads but non pinging is in the piston head combination
 
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