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Modern Bullitt build

I used a level with a straight edge to help to find the center of the style line for laying out tape on the body line. When level, sliding the straight edge will leave a mark dead center of the body line. I'm sure there are many other ways of doing this but I found this work good for my old eyes ;-)

Thanks

Pat



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Pat

Great work on the bumper brackets, some serious fab/welding skills....

Bodywork looks fantastic!

Justin
 
Pat

Great work on the bumper brackets, some serious fab/welding skills....

Bodywork looks fantastic!

Justin

Justin,
Good thing I don't do this for a living as I think I'll get fired for all the hours I put into it ;-)
Thank you!
Pat
 
Used to be a old man and his wife in my town. They ran a small engine repair shop. Sign at the road said "Real Quick or Real good can't have both decide before you drop it off"
 
With the body lines taped I blocked sanded the top 1/3 and bottom 1/3 of the sides with 320 grit sand paper. Then using the 1st tape line as a guide, I ran tape above or below the first tape line so I could block sand the center section of the car. This creates straight but sharp body lines that need softened. After removing all the tape I went back over both sides with 400 grit sand paper softening the body lines.

600 grit paper is next one step away from sealer :)

Thanks

Pat


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Keep,
I know you prolly have said this already,but.
Can you get me a quick list of the products you use.
Sealer
Primer and such. Thanks. My Matrix paint jobber has quit selling paint. Left me looking for either ordering my stuff online or looking for a total new paint system. PPG,BASF,and Sherwin Williams is the other choices I have of actual paint store so in my area. Thanks.
 
Keep,
I know you prolly have said this already,but.
Can you get me a quick list of the products you use.
Sealer
Primer and such. Thanks. My Matrix paint jobber has quit selling paint. Left me looking for either ordering my stuff online or looking for a total new paint system. PPG,BASF,and Sherwin Williams is the other choices I have of actual paint store so in my area. Thanks.

Starting with all the paint stripped I sprayed the bare metal with Cromax epoxy DTM primer #2599S (DuPont product). From there I used all Evercoat products for the filler and high build primer. Evercoat Rage ultra body filler #100125 was used for the first layer over the Cromax epoxy primer, except for any edges or corners I used Evercoat Everglass #100622 Next was a skim coat of Evercoat polyester glazing putty #100400.


With all the filler sanded to 220 I sprayed 2 layer of Evercoat Super build primer #100730. Block sanded that down with 220 grit paper and sprayed two coats of Evercoat Finish Sand #100738. Sounds like a broken record but I block sanded that back down again with 220 grit paper.


Then last two coats of Evercoat Finish Sand #100738 and started block standing at 320 then to 400 grit paper.


For the sealer, basecoat and clearcoat I will be using all PPG products.

I will use PPG's DP90LF epoxy primer sealer. Then PPG Omni basecoat. And then we will follow it up with PPG's DC4000 clearcoat.


I hope this helps

Thanks

Pat
 
Yep. That is what i was looking for. I use the same filler and glaze. Going to try the PPG stuff out for my car I think. Going to use SPI for my sons elcamino. His first car I'm sure the high school parking lot won't be kind to it so no high dollar PPG stuff on it. Thanks for the time to supply the info.
 
Ok, this is the 4th and it will be the last primer coat! The 3rd coat was very close but not for black.

Thanks

Pat



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Looking good sir. How long do you try to wait after you prime before you start blocking? I usually try to give it a couple days if it's 70+.
 
I will start sanding 24 hours later, but I'm slow and will take over a week to finish sanding.
Thanks
Pat
 
Was out of town for a few days and while away a package from the gates of Valhalla all shiny and chrome was delivered (actually it was my bumpers from Paul's chrome ;-) I will test mount them this weekend to confirm the fit along with my new aluminum bumper mounts.

Thanks

Pat


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Wow those look great! How was their pricing? I'm looking for a chrome shop for our Charger that does quality work, especially on the pot metal pieces
 
Wow those look great! How was their pricing? I'm looking for a chrome shop for our Charger that does quality work, especially on the pot metal pieces

Just to re-chrome the bumper is about $750 each. but I had them do a few custom changes to the bumpers and also chrome the four bumper guards so the total price was $2,550
Thanks
Pat
 
Just to re-chrome the bumper is about $750 each. but I had them do a few custom changes to the bumpers and also chrome the four bumper guards so the total price was $2,550
Thanks
Pat

That's not bad at all. The hot rod shop that I work at is close to Custom Chrome, who does fantastic work but he wants that much per bumper. Your bumpers look flawless.
 
I was happy to find that my aluminum bumper brackets fit great and have no movement whatsoever. Not sure I would use the original bumper jack, but that was never going to happen anyway ;-)

Thanks

Pat



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For the first time in over 3 years my Charger has moved! Only about 15' ;-) from one side of the shop to the other but it's definitely a big milestone. I will start to clean the paint booth to get it ready for painting. All the block sanding (600 grit) is finished. I just need to take the fenders, doors, hood, and trunk off and detail the jams.

Thanks

Pat



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