Neither Mopar nor car

[BeeKool]

Splitting my time between my Bee and the old H.
It leaks gas like a sieve, floods regularly, everytime it rains the manifold leaks water in and you have drain the water from the crankcase. Also the points needs filed constantly. So I'm going to due a tune up and a few upgrades to the old girl.

Farmall-International Harvester made the H from 1939 until 1955. It changed little and was extremely popular due to its reliability. This one is all original (not sure the year early fifties I think) except for a new paint job 20 years ago. Mechanically it's never been overhauled. Probably neglected is a better term.

I've removed the tin (which is in good shape). First order of business is a good power washing. Radiator, valve cover, oil pan ect.

Got her cleaned enough. Now time to remove the carb and manifold. (It's a single manifold). Pretty simple compared to my other project. (Notice the beautiful '70 with the C-Stripe in the background).

Before we continue today I ordered:
a carb rebuild kit $55
a new manifold $160
a manifold gasket $8
a HEI conversion kit $94 - bye bye points! For am approx. total of $320
All from Dennys Carb Shop out of Ohio.

Side view of the carb and governor. Simple removal a couple bolts and linkages. Governor a bit more but nothing that needs explaining to a Mope.

After the carb/manifold areremoved, now it's time to remove and inspect the sediment bowl. These tractors have an update carb but no fuel pump. Fuel system is gravity fed via fuel tank being higher than the carb. Very simple yet effective. Love these old tractors!
Pretty self explanatory again. Remove the sediment bowl unhook the fuel line to carb and then the housing will unscrew from bottom of tank.

This thing leaked pretty good from both the sediment bowl and at the carb. While I'm waiting on my parts I will disassemble, clean and reassemble sediment bowl.

Some of the pieces of the sediment bowl assy are brass. And some are cast aluminum. I applied some specific thread seal tape after cleaning to see if this will help.

I'm also going to reflarend both ends of the copper fuel line. Or maybe just replace.


That's about all I can do until the parts arrive. So back to the Bee. My Heater Box rebuild should be arriving by Monday.

I will post pictures of the reassembly next week.

 

[khryslerkid]

I had a H for many years. Mostly used it for mowing, had a 7ft. Littleston pull behind. It had hydraulics so I used it for a tag along log splitter. Did a truck patch with a 2 bottom and a disk. It also had a magneto so starting it with a crank was easy.

One thing I found out was when replacing the clutch disk, the replacement disk was about as thick as the worn out one. It's hard to find a good replacement with factory thickness. Fyi.

 

[BeeKool]

This old girl does stationary work with an auger. And do tight utility work. She can turn really tight and has a short wheel base. She probably get 100 hrs a year.
Use to belly mow with it, but switched to an Allis Chalmers WD about 20 years ago. the WD has a handclutch (a precursor to live pto) and 2 way hydraulic.

Im always amazed by how reliable these old tractors are. I've never used lead substitute and these tractors were made to run on leaded fuel.
Have you converted your H to 12 volt?

 

[68GTXNH]

Sweet. I have a 1940 M. Biggest farmall they made that year. total pain to tow anywhere though pushing 7000lbs with tires just wider then my trailer, all that weight behind the wheels. An H wouldve been a much more practical choice so it could fit in my garage to work on, but its what i could find that someone was willing to take trades, all.my money goes toward the x. But it Runs like a top. Traded a car lift for it last year. Dont need it. Cool conversation piece though. I just drive it around the yard to show people how awesome it is. Ill post pics for you tomorrow

 

[khryslerkid]

Im always amazed by how reliable these old tractors are. I've never used lead substitute and these tractors were made to run on leaded fuel.
Have you converted your H to 12 volt?

Actually I sold it when I moved from my old place. It still had the 6volt generator with a 8volt battery. I see yours has a alternator. Good idea!
Mine was smoking just a little when I sold it. I'm thinking rings but the buyer said he was going to rebuild it. That's one dependable tractor!

 

[BeeKool]

I'm probably going to drop the oil pan and plastigauge the bearings. I wouldn't doubt that it could use an underhaul.
Probably could stand to have a valve job too.
Not wanting to spend more than $500 on it this winter though. Stopping the fuel leak and converting the distributor should do for now

 

[BeeKool]

Sweet. I have a 1940 M. Biggest farmall they made that year. total pain to tow anywhere though pushing 7000lbs with tires just wider then my trailer, all that weight behind the wheels. An H wouldve been a much more practical choice so it could fit in my garage to work on, but its what i could find that someone was willing to take trades, all.my money goes toward the x. But it Runs like a top. Traded a car lift for it last year. Dont need it. Cool conversation piece though. I just drive it around the yard to show people how awesome it is. Ill post pics for you tomorrow

The H and the M were produced simultaneously.. There were more variations of the M. My neighbor has an MD. D stands for diesel. Kind of a rarer tractor. It was a diesel but not a Super MD or an MTA.
Farmall were better than their Deere counterparts. Farmall's inline 4 cylinder ran much smoother than Johnnys double lung.

 

[68GTXNH]

The H and the M were produced simultaneously.. There were more variations of the M. My neighbor has an MD. D stands for diesel. Kind of a rarer tractor. It was a diesel but not a Super MD or an MTA.
Farmall were better than their Deere counterparts. Farmall's inline 4 cylinder ran much smoother than Johnnys double lung.

Ya absolutely. I see worlds more farmalls where the common first words are something to the effect of "runs great" jd and the old ford 9n seem to have the phrase "did a ton of work and it runs great" the cool thing about the MD was it could run on almost anything, started on gas to warm it up, then swap to diesel (or used oil, kerosene, biodiesel whatever the farmer had)ive never seen one in person but ive looked into them a lot. Mines gas and was swapped to a single wire early gm 12v starter. Gauges and lights dont work so i guess voltage for them doesnt matter at the moment hehe.

 

[PRND21]

Still use our old M to mow ditch banks. With power steering, you can't beat them for backing wagons.

 

[cryplydog]

I've got an old H with a wide front end and a end loader with a brillion chopper, runs great and my sons want to sell it for scrap! I guess I should save all my cool stuff for my grand sons.

 

[J. Cower]

I'm working on painting my H now. Tons of sanding and all that. Got my SSP ready to go for spring so it was on to the next project. It's a 1946 that's never been repainted. If anything it will be better than it was when I got it. I just use for brush hogging and getting wood out mostly. Can't beat the sound of an old Farmall working

 

[68GTXNH]

heres my M, also never been painted except for the wheels. i kind wish they werent so i wouldnt be compelled to do the rest of it, but can have red wheel and a rusty tractor, ill get it beautiful someday. which isnt hard to do, farmalls are hands down the best looking tractors out there you can see how massive it is with a full size car trailer and a big *** monte carlo to compared it to.

 

[PRND21]

When I was a kid at one time we had 3 Ms, a Massey Harris 33 and a TO35 Ferguson with a Davis loader. One of the Ms had a factory wide front, M&W pistons, M&W 9 speed conversion and an M&W independent PTO. Man, that was one HOT M. It would pull a 4-14s plow all day long. It had a sound all its own going through a tough spot. But NOTHING sounds like a John Deere G pulling 3-16s through black ground.

 

[Bb70charger500]

Man I haven't seen one of these in forever we had one on the books at my old company she rarely got used but when she did she worked perfectly was one of my favorite s because it never broke so I never had to fix it!

 

[BeeKool]

When I was a kid at one time we had 3 Ms, a Massey Harris 33 and a TO35 Ferguson with a Davis loader. One of the Ms had a factory wide front, M&W pistons, M&W 9 speed conversion and an M&W independent PTO. Man, that was one HOT M. It would pull a 4-14s plow all day long. It had a sound all its own going through a tough spot. But NOTHING sounds like a John Deere G pulling 3-16s through black ground.

The days of the mold-board came and went before my time. We still have a 6 bottom. But it only get used in waterway repair.
I've spent lots of time on our old Farmalls. Mainly haying, spraying fencerows, mowing, and stationary pro work.
Many larger row crop tractors have come and gone. But our H, 300, 400, and A/C WD all remain and work. Reminders of a simpler life in a bygone era.

 

[BeeKool]

The fuel bowl assy reinstalled now it's time to repair the line.

The fittings on the carb and fuel bowl assy are dual flare. The line is just a copper line with compression rings. Each compression will spin freely be hand. I suspect that may have been the cause of the leaks.

There is length in this line yet. I'm going to cut the ends off and reflare them..tonight...

Meanwhile.....

I clean the carb off. I won't disassemble the carb until I have the rebuilt kit.

Is it OK to soak the carb, (submerged in gas)?

 

[PRND21]

The days of the mold-board came and went before my time. We still have a 6 bottom. But it only get used in waterway repair.
I've spent lots of time on our old Farmalls. Mainly haying, spraying fencerows, mowing, and stationary pro work.
Many larger row crop tractors have come and gone. But our H, 300, 400, and A/C WD all remain and work. Reminders of a simpler life in a bygone era.

Actually those were childhood memories. When I came back to the farm in 83 after working as a tractor mechanic at the local Deere dealer, we had retired the old moldboard plow. Actually we we're the first around here to use a disc-chisel on corn stalks, everybody was still turning stalks under. Still have a 6-18 in the barn,that I've used once in the last 35 years, use a mounted 3-16 to repair waterways. Good luck on the H. BTW I had a 54 WD and a 35 WC that I sold a few years ago, just didn't need them anymore. Really hated to see them go.

 

[BeeKool]

Actually those were childhood memories. When I came back to the farm in 83 after working as a tractor mechanic at the local Deere dealer, we had retired the old moldboard plow. Actually we we're the first around here to use a disc-chisel on corn stalks, everybody was still turning stalks under. Still have a 6-18 in the barn,that I've used once in the last 35 years, use a mounted 3-16 to repair waterways. Good luck on the H. BTW I had a 54 WD and a 35 WC that I sold a few years ago, just didn't need them anymore. Really hated to see them go.

The WD has the most reliable ignition/points system I've ever seen. Never need to file or gap them. Pops right off always.
Uses/leaks oil considerably but has done so for the past quarter century.

Waterway maintenance can be a bitch. Mold boards and discs do the job. But I'd really like to have an old D4 Cat or an Allis equivalent.

The place I ordered my parts from seems to be the go to place in the Midwest for vintage tractor parts. Carbs/governor/ignition/exhaust anyway.

I'm have tempting to make my neighbor an offer on his MD. It needs work.
We used to pick alot of ear corn and air dry it. Come July we were busy shelling corn. We always used his MD and Minneapolis-Moline shelter.
I have plenty of irons in the fire, and it's been used lots. Still a good candidate for a tractor restoration

 

[BeeKool]

Forgot about this thread until I saw a fellow member seeking advice about his 6v H

I got the Carb back together, the leaking fuel repaired, a new manifold on, and the Distributor converted over to HEI. It runs like a clock now. Could probably stand to adjust the timing though. It was 0° outside and it started right up, (with half-choke). The new manifold is universal to an HEI or a Super H. So my muffler wouldn't fit, will be replaced eventually

To anybody who owns an H. Unless yours is from one of the first few years of production (there were 17 years) in which case an easy way to tell is it would have spoken wheels, I would highly suggest switching over to a negative grounded 12 volt system with an HEI style ignition. They run so much better and not messing with the points is so very nice. I wish I had done this year's ago..

 

[Mike67]

You need to install a seat warmer!