New dizzy wiring question.

[Sonny]

Car: 1970 Belvedere. Had 318 now has 360. Current original distributor has Pertronix ignition upgraded from points. I ordered a new standard distributor (non points type) from summit racing (SUM-851006) and want to get the wiring correct. Current distributor has both wires direct to coil (red from distributor plus the blue from the VR to + and black from distributor plus the green (tach) to -). New distributor has a plug on the two distributor wires. See pics for current setup. I know I have to reconnect the balast resistor and get a lower resistance coil. Do I just cut the plug on the distributor and wire directly to the coil (orange + and black -) like it is now?

 

[SublimeSixpack]

An electronic distributor (stock type) like you ordered will more than likely require a ECU and wiring harness to go with it, plus a wiring diagram showing how to splice it into your system.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

No, the pertronix ignitor system his car has now got built in the ECU into the dist pickup.

Didn't get instructions sheet?

 

[SublimeSixpack]

No, the pertronix ignitor system his car has now got built in the ECU into the dist pickup.

Didn't get instructions sheet?

He's replacing the distributor that had the Pertronix conversion. He now has/or will have the M.P. type of distributor that he wants to install. That will need the ECU, harness, etc.

 

[Sonny]

Maybe I should just put the Pertronix unit in the new distributor? I'm only swapping it cause the old one is worn out and the mechanical advance doesn't work well.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Sorry, didn't understand

Ppl testimonials are mostly agreed the Pertronix ignitor setup is an upgrade and outperforms the stock setup which I think includes the stock elec ignition and not just the points setup.

If you go for the easy... yes I'd do it.

I'm a hard rock fan of the stock Mopar setups/looks though. The stock elect setup gives you several ign modules options, from stock replacemets up to MP, FBO, Rev-N-Nator, and some others. This will require of course ad up the elect ign system harness. Which are available and these aftermarket performance products also offers into kits. This harness just requires one or two splices into existing harness, and attach one or two terminals to plug them in into places ( depending if using 4 or 5 pins ECU setup )


However, 70 never came with elect ign modules, so the pertronix is still somehow into the stock look for the year LOL


It's up to you

 

[Nacho-RT74]

This is the harness you will be getting

This is the diagram using 4 pins ECU and single ballast which is mostly sure the setup you could be setting, where the green traced red wire on harness wouldn't be used.

And with 5 pins dual ballast where all the harness wiring would be used

NOTE, I would set it for 5 pins dual ballast just in case.

 

[Sonny]

This is the harness you will be getting

View attachment 514772


This is the diagram using 4 pins ECU and single ballast which is mostly sure the setup you could be setting, where the green traced red wire on harness wouldn't be used.


View attachment 514773

And with 5 pins dual ballast where all the harness wiring would be used

View attachment 514774


NOTE, I would set it for 5 pins dual ballast just in case.

Wow! That's the info I was looking for complete with diagrams! Thanks!

 

[Sonny]

This is the harness you will be getting

View attachment 514772


This is the diagram using 4 pins ECU and single ballast which is mostly sure the setup you could be setting, where the green traced red wire on harness wouldn't be used.


View attachment 514773

And with 5 pins dual ballast where all the harness wiring would be used

View attachment 514774


NOTE, I would set it for 5 pins dual ballast just in case.

My car has the two wire voltage regulator. Is it replaced with the new ECU?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Voltage regulator is one thing, ECU is another diff deal, just related to the ign system

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Oh! Need to say on those diagrams is missed the ballast bypass wire ( must be brown ) coming from ign 2 and spliced into the ballast end to the coil lead wire, which in any case is not important to be drawn on the upgrade diagram, because you won't be dealing with that... Just an informative post thought

 

[Cornpatch MO]

I am not a fan of Mopar electronic ignition, even tho it is used by nearly everyone. So much simpler to use a good stock points dist, convert it to a pertronix III ignition , use a coil that has internal resister ( any parts store) and throw that friggen ballast resister away ! Or use one of Pertronix hotter coils. With the Pert.III kit, you use no special adapter on the points cam-no air gap--and you change the entire plate, which lets you keep your old points plat to re-install easily , in case if there ever was a electronic problem . No orange box, black box, silver box, nothing but what goes inside the stock dist. and the coil. And, so easy to wire using your stock wiring. I am sold on mine........................MO

 

[Sonny]

I am not a fan of Mopar electronic ignition, even tho it is used by nearly everyone. So much simpler to use a good stock points dist, convert it to a pertronix III ignition , use a coil that has internal resister ( any parts store) and throw that friggen ballast resister away ! Or use one of Pertronix hotter coils. With the Pert.III kit, you use no special adapter on the points cam-no air gap--and you change the entire plate, which lets you keep your old points plat to re-install easily , in case if there ever was a electronic problem . No orange box, black box, silver box, nothing but what goes inside the stock dist. and the coil. And, so easy to wire using your stock wiring. I am sold on mine........................MO

Thanks! I decided to keep my points distributor with the Pertronix unit. I took my dizzy apart and the weights were gummed up. Plus it had one small spring and one real heavy one with a longer loop on the outside. I thought that was weird so I added another small spring I had leftover in my box of parts and the timming issue is solved. That plus a little brake kleen and grease and the car has never run better.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The thick spring GOES THERE, is on THAT way. The lighter springs covers the initial rpms, the thick spring cover the higher rpms rates.

 

[oldbee]

Halifaxhops will probably chime in & I like ur thinking about oem, but that old shaft&shoddy are getting a 'little old'. There has to be some kinda wear setting in.

 

[oldbee]

D--- spell checker. I meant shaft&body.

 

[Sonny]

Oh! Need to say on those diagrams is missed the ballast bypass wire ( must be brown ) coming from ign 2 and spliced into the ballast end to the coil lead wire, which in any case is not important to be drawn on the upgrade diagram, because you won't be dealing with that... Just an informative post thought

So I’m finally going to upgrade my ignition system. The brown wire you spoke of is attached to a blue wire on one side of my resistor. Do I just cut it out?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

No, that's the ballast bypass for higher voltage to coil when cranking up

 

[Sonny]

No, that's the ballast bypass for higher voltage to coil when cranking up

Thanks. So you meant they left out the fact that you need to keep it?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I meant the diagrams I posted don't show the brown wire spliced into the ballast end what feeds the + lead of coil... and must be there ( factory feature ), if not engine won't start up while cranking