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Oil pan leak

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Since my engine build, I've been fighting an oil leak. Was thinking rear main seal, when I finally put the car on a lift I wasn't able to see oil coming from the crank area. Appeared to be from the rear of the oil pan. Resealed it with another set of cork gaskets, still leaking but about 50% less. Now I'm looking at either doing it again but am torn between the 1 piece windage tray / gaskets from summit or picking up 2 gaskets from Superformance. Anyone got advise on which would be the better route? Yes I am using a windage tray.
 
Do you use any gasket sealant on it? That usually cures it.

Personally, I use Permatex non-hardening. Oil and gas proof.
 
Superformance gaskets all the way, no leaks just use some gaskacinch on the rails and a dab of silicone at the parting joints. Ive been doing this and no leaks. His gaskets are the best when it comes to oil pans, and intakes quality stuff
 
Do you use any gasket sealant on it? That usually cures it.

Personally, I use Permatex non-hardening. Oil and gas proof.
Yes, first time around I sprayed both sides of both cork gaskets with mopar gasket maker. It's a red tacky spray. 2nd time I used permatex aviation sealer and brushed it on the cork. All parting lines have been sealed with RTV. Oil pan was brand new and straight.
 
Superformance gaskets all the way, no leaks just use some gaskacinch on the rails and a dab of silicone at the parting joints. Ive been doing this and no leaks. His gaskets are the best when it comes to oil pans, and intakes quality stuff
So you still brush the goo on when using his gaskets? I thought those were a dry install other than the parting lines.
 
Make sure the rear of the pan covers the two bolt hole recesses in the rear seal retainer. I pack them with RTV. Not all pans cover them. Make sure the pan bolt holes in the retainer are not broken through, if so Teflon thread sealer on those two pan bolts. Glue the 1st gasket to the block with a thin bead of weather strip glue. Also add a 1/8" bead of RTV at the timing cover gasket junction and as mentioned at the rear seal retainer between this gasket and the block. RTV on both sides of the tray an on the pan. Only 1/8" bead is needed. Any gaskets, though Superformance are great. Do not over tighten. A nut driver or 1/4" ratchet is plenty. Also before doing this I'd be sure the sides of the seal retainer or rear main itself is not leaking along with the oil sending unit, valley tray, or valve covers. After sealing the pan thus way you could remove the bolts and it wouldnt leak.
Doug
 
just a idea..I thought my gasket was leaking,turns out it was the valve cover....Doesn't hurt do re-torgue the valve covers....
 
Absolutely no oil coming from top end. I even pulled intake Just to be sure. I've been around the entire engine with a mirror several times.
 
SUPERPERFORMANCE!!! Only gasket I use now!

http://www.superformanceproducts.com/ Greg can point you to a dealer near you.

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Spray Dr Scholl's foot powder where the leak could possibly come from. It washes off when you're done.

Use UV dye and a UV light to find the leak. The UV glasses help a little but this needs to be done in a dark garage.
 
On a bb I always spray both sides of the gasket with spray copper coat and have never had a leak. It's a flat gasket not hard to seal, are you sure its not the rear main seal cap?
 
So you still brush the goo on when using his gaskets? I thought those were a dry install other than the parting lines.

I just put a coat of gaskacinch on both sides of the gaskets and gently tighten the bolts, no need to reef down on them. Just make sure gasket surfaces are clean and straight
 
You need a gasket because it's stamped steel. You need a little sealant to fill the imperfections that's why I use copper coat it's
very sticky so the gasket wont move, Its very thin and it seals.
 
With Hylomar you can re-use the gaskets!
 
Yes, first time around I sprayed both sides of both cork gaskets with mopar gasket maker. It's a red tacky spray. 2nd time I used permatex aviation sealer and brushed it on the cork. All parting lines have been sealed with RTV. Oil pan was brand new and straight.
If that was the case, shouldn't have leaked. Unless there's something you missed, that's interfering with the gasket sealing...a burr, or the like.
 
I know you said you had a new oil pan that was straight. Did you actually check it with a straight edge? Call me a skeptic but the QC on some of today's products isn't what it used to be.
 
I know you said you had a new oil pan that was straight. Did you actually check it with a straight edge? Call me a skeptic but the QC on some of today's products isn't what it used to be.
No straight edge, just laid it on a flat surface. I've put quite a few mangled pans on with no leaks, this one is killing me though !
 
I meant on the block itself. Seems somewhere around the rear seal, even though the seal isn't leaking. Just tossing ideas.
 
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