Overheating issues & what is this fitting on my intake?

[72Satellitescoop]

Still working out the bugs in my recently purchased 72 Satellite. Noticed the temp gauge was going to the far right very hot range after about 30 minutes of driving in regular traffic. Car ran ok hot, but I didn't push it. No knock or ping. Will idle all day at mid to 3/4 of the temp gauge. Not sure if the gauge is accurate yet so I'm going over the whole cooling system.
Drained the radiator via the petcock and got only 1.25 gallons of a very diluted mix of coolant/water. Doesn't look dirty or corroded. Seemed kind of low . Was expecting at least 3 gallons. Checked the level often and antifreeze was always at the top of the radiator and flowing real fast. I'll check it with a tester to get an idea of what was in there. Radiator looks clean inside and was told? it was re cored or replaced. 26 inch radiator. Removed the thermostat housing and no thermostat inside. So I have a 180 degree I'm going to put in there. Hope this helps. Secondly, the car does not have the heat set up and the line from my water pump that would go to the firewall heater core fitting, is looped into a fitting just next to the thermo housing, on the manifold. See Pics.
This fitting was leaking quite a bit at the threads. After a drive, I'd find a little antifreeze puddling in an intake cavity by the intake bolts. What is this nipple/fitting and how do I remove it? it's pretty chewed up so I'd like to replace. Once I get another, I'll coat the threads with plumbing dope or teflon tape? Unless there's a better way. Thanks for any assistance.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

It appears to be threaded in I would probably use a small pipe wrench to remove it. It will probably crush in upon itself if you use channel locks. Might even do good to heat it a bit before trying to remove it.

 

[72Satellitescoop]

It's a tight little spot to get a bite on it. My pipe wrench's are a little to big . I'll have to pick something up smaller that can really clamp down on that. It's in there good.. Here's a closer pic.
I searched up some of these heater fittings and see that there are two styles. Mine is the style with a slot on the top- see pic with no nut and some have a nut, with no slot-see pic Is it possible the slot is how this is removed? I'm afraid to get down on it with a tool since it looks kind of weak and may break off. But I guess it 's got to come out one way or the other. Is there a tool that's made for this?

 

[JimKueneman]

Use a propane torch and heat the manifold around the fitting before trying to unscrew it. I got mine out with just vice grips and heat.

 

[oldbee]

Try first using a little heat right at bottom of threads & a big screwdriver in the slots, if you have one with a square shank put a wrench on them for more leverage; if the slot breaks/ rounds off then go with vise grips/ pipe wrench.

 

[Martin460]

 

[Ranger16]

A "blue tip wrench" should do it, but propane might not be enough.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

1. I recommend you leave that fitting in there until it's gone. I mean, I've never had any luck removing those personally. If you feel like you have to remove it, then a torch (at least oxy/map gas or maybe oxy/acetylene) is your only way in my opinion to get that sucker out (assuming cast iron intake that will take the heat). I doubt propane will be enough, but jimkuneman seemed to have gotten lucky.

2. With the status of the car as you described, I think the previous owner had an overheating issue with that motor.
a. "loop" of hose indicates the heater core is probably leaking.
b. 1-1/4 gallons of "watered down looking" coolant sounds like the guy was adding water to the cooling system & I believe you should have gotten at least 2-1/2 gal. out. (anyone know the cooling system capacity?)
c. thermostat missing is another sign of an overheating engine since most engines (in my experience) run cooler without it in there.

I'd bet that radiator isn't as good as the guy told you. I'd also check for a head gasket leak + make sure your fan clutch is working and the fan shroud is in place.

My 2-cents.

 

[Madmopars]

If you do try to remove the fitting, heat it first as mentioned and then spray the threads with WD-40 or oil. Be aware it will smoke a bit. Also, put a ratchet extension, screwdriver or something of similar size down the inside of the fitting before wrenching on it. This will prevent the fitting from bring crushed during the removal process. This should help, just don't let whatever you choose drop inside the intake. Good Luck! - Trent

 

[JimKueneman]

1. I recommend you leave that fitting in there until it's gone. I mean, I've never had any luck removing those personally. If you feel like you have to remove it, then a torch (at least oxy/map gas or maybe oxy/acetylene) is your only way in my opinion to get that sucker out (assuming cast iron intake that will take the heat). I doubt propane will be enough, but jimkuneman seemed to have gotten lucky.

Luck! I prefer to think of it as skill!

 

[Fran Blacker]

Agree with posts above. It looks like it still has flats area's for a good 6 point deep socket or has it been tried with one?

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Agree with posts above. It looks like it still has flats area's for a good 6 point deep socket or has it been tried with one?

Good point! It does have a socket bottom, so you he may have a MUCH easier time than I did getting that little booger out of there.

 

[72Satellitescoop]

Thanks for all the advice. I tried to give it a little heat but still cannot get a good bite on it. All my wrenches just turn. And there is no way a socket would fit. It never had a cast nut on it. This is the round fitting that would screw down using the slots on top. I think I'm going to let a more experienced auto mechanic take a shot at this fitting. Maybe better torches and better tools. In the meantime, I'm going to get that thermostat in and get it back going and check the overheating. I do not think the fitting leak is causing the overheat, but it doesn't help either. Will update once there is some progress. Have a good weekend.

 

[69Bee]

Cut it off towards the base with a cutoff wheel, then use a short easy out to remove it. I do this all the time for pipe plugs that round out.

 

[coloradodave]

If the fitting is leaking, the system can't build pressure and therefore is contributing to your heat problem. Buy some good penetrating oil such as PB Blaster or, my favorite, Fluid Film, sold at NAPA, spray the base of the fitting and tap the fitting with a small hammer to set up vibrations that will help wick the oil down the threads. WD-40 isn't the product for this. Tap the fitting now and then and then after an hour or so, apply a good size vise-grip ( adjusted as tight as you can get them) to the base of the fitting, with the jaws in compression. If coolant is leaking out, penetrating oil can get in. It WILL come out...

 

[72Satellitescoop]

So I elected to put everything back together and have a nearby shop have at the heater hose fitting on the manifold. Since the car had no thermostat, I added a 180 and did 3 cycles of flushing out what was in there. The AF was pretty clean, just a heavily diluted mix with the 3 flush cycles. So I added my new fresh AF with about a 60/40 mix, taking into account the water still in the block. Put about 25 miles on and things seem good. No overheating, t-stat pops open when the gauge gets to the first hot line at the right, and brings it back down a notch or two. Even better is that the heater hose fitting is not leaking and it may have been the hose/clamp set up. Hose was clamped over some of the threads and I think this allowed a small leak that would leave a puddle on the intake after driving. Also replaced the radiator cap with a new 16lb. one and that seems to have helped as well to hold the pressure. So now I'm off to another issue that just came up with a broken accelerator cable and a new thread on that to follow on that. Thanks again for all the input. I can't imagine doing these repairs without the boards knowledge and input. See you in another thread.

 

[rrTor-Red]

View attachment 438760

Heat and either a screwdriver to put in the slots, as stated, or what Martin460 posted. I have some at home but am gone till next month

 

[threewood]

Lol, I have never gotten one out intact. You could drop the intake in a pool of lave and the threads will still probably rip off. I have a set npt taps and corosponding drill bits for manifolds and water pumps.