Prothane bushings for body and torsion bars

[Darter6]

This weekend I replaced the body to front frame and torsion bar mounts.The car is a 79 300 "B". The part # for the body to frame is 4-101-BL and T-bars is 4-106-BL from Summit.Cost was less than $100 for the pair. The T-bar bushing install took about 10 minutes. The front frame bushings took about 2 hours total as we had to cut the center support sleeves with a saws all .Sorry for the crappy photos(cell phone) misplaced my good camera %$&&^ !! Still didn't find it ! Drove it today and it did make a difference with the handling for the better.Still has a nice ride. Saving up to do the rear bushings and springs.

 

[YY1]

I tried to do that a couple weekends ago.
I found, like you did, that I lacked about 5/16" to clear that center tube and top plate piece.
This was with the bolts out on that said and the other side loosened almost all the way.

I think separating the ball joints might get me another 3/16.

I was scared to cut that part in case I needed to put it back like it was for some reason.

What is that in pic #3? Is that the trans mount? I only have the K frame kit.

Did you do anything to address potential squeaking?

I may try again next weekend as I have the engine out and can only image it's 10x easier than with it in.

 

[Darter6]

The first photo is the torsion bar mounts new on the left old on the right.

Photo 2 is the new frame mounts,3 is the frame mount showing the cuts to get it out of the frame and clear the body.

Photo 4 and 5 are the new body mounts installed.

Photo 6 is the torsion bar to body mount.

I used a waterproof marine grease for all contact points.The guys over on FMJ Bodies said to lube them,those that didn't got squeaks.

 

[Elise Winter]

Thanks for the info.

 

[MagnumFan]

Are these rubber or some type of metal?

 

[Darter6]

Polyurethane

 

[76mopar]

I need to do mine. What's the procedure for dealing with the torsion bars. Have had the bushings for awhile but always been a little scared of dealing with the torsion bars. Is it just as easy as running the bolts down (the ones under the lower control arms) to relieve the tension.

 

[Darter6]

You got it.Loosen those two bolts to remove all tension.Then remove the two mount bolts clean everything up,install the new bushings, tighten the bushing bolts,re-a-just the ride height at the lower control arms and done.

 

[76mopar]

Cool thanks!

 

[Road75Runner]

Great work Darter6!


I did mine back in June what a difference on the ride!!
Thigther feel in the front end not much difference in road noise ( I keep rubber bushing on the upper cont. arm and lower arm)

The T-bar bushing where easy to put on didn't have to release the tension to put the new one in

The K-member bushing where kind of easy......the front one where done without any struggle but the rear one where a little pain in the butt since the castle nut spun inside the little pocket.
I had to open up the side of the pocket/gusset to remove the nut/bolt and welded a locking tab on the nuts to make sure they will not spin when I thight them up.

I just remove the upper ball joint from spindle and the upper control arm plate from the K-member (I replace the upper arm bushing) lowered one side at the time (slowly and carefully) and was able to wiggle the old bushing out without any cutting

In the end everything work out great!

 

[dodge1972]

Thanks for the great photos. Planning replacement and front end rebuild by spring

 

[Road75Runner]

I upgraded the front end a few years ago and I used the inner/outer tie rod and sleeves from the C body
The tie rod threaded part are bigger (less flex) fits right in the spindle and center link .
Just keep the oem idler arm and pitman arm and everything work great!

 

[mopar73dge]

!looks good I did my body mounts on my 73 Charger in 2002 it took me 5 hrs. one side at a time removed the strut rods and pryed up on the frame. Some rust was present, I added a new thick aircraft aluminum plate custom cut to fit the bushings and coated it with asphalt. to prevent reaction with the steel. The bottom frame that was a bit rusted, still strong so it does not need welding, but some day I will have a welder rebuild it completely, Every year I spray wd 40 in a hole at the rear body bushing mounts to keep water out of the bolt and weld nuts. Poly bushings made a noticeable difference in the cornering. They will not move and squeak if they squeak than they are not tight enough. min of 250 ft lbs is what the Shop manual reads for those, and the Just suspension tech told me to tighten to factory specs. I cranked in them until they stopped. slightly bulging is good.

 

[mopar73dge]

I also replaced my torsion bar rear mount bushings, the original ones were slightly dry rotted still good, but new is better after 43 years right? The shop replaced those for me and did a front end alignment,

 

[YY1]

Pretty sure my FSM says 125 Ft/Lbs on the ISO bolts.

 

[Darter6]

That is the spec I used. ^^