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Race fuel - What's best.

Superstock, that's impressive! Do you have any idea what you picked up for HP when switching to the Indy intake?
You sure must have your car working well for those kinds of times. I'm running Calvert split mono leafs, cal tracs and QA1 shocks on the rear with 90/10's up front and light torsion bars. Any tips on shock settings? It will be the first time out so I'll be starting fresh. Your comment on intake puddling interests me too. I'm not sure how you were able to correct that. I've had a few blown burst valves early on. Touchy things..


Around 80 hp gain switching from OE Crossram to the indy crossram. I opted for the offset indy crossram which gives up a little power compared to the inline Indy crossram which I have on my 588CI engine.
I ran Cal tracs for years. Every car is different. If you're running double adjustables, that will help a lot over a single adjustable shock.

Who's block are you using?
 
Around 80 hp gain switching from OE Crossram to the indy crossram. I opted for the offset indy crossram which gives up a little power compared to the inline Indy crossram which I have on my 588CI engine.
I ran Cal tracs for years. Every car is different. If you're running double adjustables, that will help a lot over a single adjustable shock.

Who's block are you using?

I'm using a stock 440 block, fitted with Aluminum main caps, studs and girdle.
 
Malex...can't wait to hear about your dyno numbers...good luck..
Me to Mike, Hoping that there's no surprises except for hopefully some NICE numbers!
 
The 63 Dodge that was my first N/SS car had similar engine combo. 498, stock -1 heads, .660 roller,13-1, 4.10, stock crossram. It ran a best of 10.18. Though I never ran the Indy intake at the track we did dyno the motor with both intakes. Stock made 658, Indy made 707.
Doug

Lickity split 63.jpg
 
The 63 Dodge that was my first N/SS car had similar engine combo. 498, stock -1 heads, .660 roller,13-1, 4.10, stock crossram. It ran a best of 10.18. Though I never ran the Indy intake at the track we did dyno the motor with both intakes. Stock made 658, Indy made 707.
Doug

View attachment 393158
That's a good engine combo comparison to my build Doug. Sweet 63 by the way. About the biggest difference that I can see would be that my Victors have had work done to them, the majority on the exhaust, improving flow by 30%. My dyno guy says that with these bigger motors they have trouble getting the flow out and once the exhaust is opened up he sees the numbers climb on the dyno. We're going to find out soon.
Wondering what the weight of that 63 was. 10.16 with 658 HP, probably would have broke the 9's with the Indy. Doug did you have stuffers in that intake when you had it on the dyno?
 
The 63 weighed 3450 w/ me. Heck they didn't even have stuffers then. It was one of the first manifolds cast.
Doug
 
The 63 weighed 3450 w/ me. Heck they didn't even have stuffers then. It was one of the first manifolds cast.
Doug

So stuffers were something that was developed afterwards, never would have known that otherwise. That nice 63 would have for sure been seeing the 9's with stuffers I think.

I ended up going with Renegade Pro 112+ for my dyno runs so we'll see how that works out.

My carbs have 110 jets already so it could be fairly close. I purchased my Indy intake and carb set up from a fellow who was running 10.04's with it in a 63 Dodge @ 3450 lbs and had spent time with the jetting.
 
In my case the best jetting in average air was 113 pri/110 sec. The primary can be easily swapped the 4% change by going up/down to the next rod diameter.
Doug
 
IMG_3841.JPG
So some initial dyno numbers. Have established a base line now @ 34 - 35 degrees advance. Got to get into fine tuning so there is probably some more power to dig up
653 TQ @ 4700. / 707 HP @ 6250. Darn main seal is leaking though so it's a little messy.. Hopefully we'll see a little more out of it with jetting and valves.
Stayed tuned.
 
View attachment 393791 So some initial dyno numbers. Have established a base line now @ 34 - 35 degrees advance. Got to get into fine tuning so there is probably some more power to dig up
653 TQ @ 4700. / 707 HP @ 6250. Darn main seal is leaking though so it's a little messy.. Hopefully we'll see a little more out of it with jetting and valves.
Stayed tuned.


I knew it!!
You'll be a 10.00 car. Great job Malex
 
Malex, I also have a "girdle" ( from 440 Source and their steel billet main caps) and I had trouble with my rear main seal leaking also (at first). It is real tricky to get it sealed up properly with the girdle. My ending builder switched to the Mancini Real Main Seal Kit and put the right amount of sealant (in the right places) and it fixed the problem. (It did drip just a little bit at first, but then it sealed if self up after maybe 45 minutes of total run time on the motor. Not a drip at all anymore. I now have 86 1/4 mile passes on my new 505" and absolutely no rear main seal dripping whatsoever.
My best ET is now 10.512 @ 3640 lbs with me and 5 gal fuel...so I figure I am making at least 675 Horsepower to get those ET's.
My motor (on the Dyno) originally only made 602HP but that was with an INDY Dual Plane Intake and a 4150 based 850 Mighty Demon. It ran 10.95 with that setup and when I switch to an Edelbrock Victor 440 with a HVH Super Sucker 4150 to 4500 CNC Adapter and a new 1050 Dominator it then went 10.61...with no other changes. Then I switched to 2" Dougs Headers with 3 1/2 collectors and switched from 50/50 91 Pump and VP110 to straight VP110 and then went from 34 timing to 37 timing and those changes turned the 10.61 to 10.51 (all with the Air Density around 1400 feet on all comparisons). All of these numbers are with my STANDARD PORT INDY HEADS WHICH ONLY FLOW 290CFM... Can't wait to get them ported to 345-350CFM....
Good Luck with your ET's ... be sure and let us know. Mike
 
View attachment 393791 So some initial dyno numbers. Have established a base line now @ 34 - 35 degrees advance. Got to get into fine tuning so there is probably some more power to dig up
653 TQ @ 4700. / 707 HP @ 6250. Darn main seal is leaking though so it's a little messy.. Hopefully we'll see a little more out of it with jetting and valves.
Stayed tuned.
Nice baseline it is too :thumbsup:

look forward to seeing what you get when done tinkering/tuning

good luck & Happy Moparing
 
Dyno day went well. The 505 ended up making 720HP @ 6400 and 676TQ @ 4500. Without a doubt we could have pulled more power out of it but we were limited to jets and metering rods.
A pretty good day on the dyno.

I have a rear main seal to replace though so that's an unexpected job. I used the stock black seal and was careful with it but I hope the next time around will be better.. One thing I'll be paying close attention to will be the rear main cap. With the line bore a guy wonders if there's something with that. Any tips on rear seals, what's best, install tricks are welcome.

Both Superstock and DVW must have crystal balls cause they had this combo pegged pretty well dead on! These guys are the real deal, that's for sure.


Here's one of the print outs from the day. Some nice flat lines it seems.
IMG_3842.JPG
 
I knew it!!
You'll be a 10.00 car. Great job Malex
Thanks Superstock! You pretty well had it pegged bang on. Doug predicted over 700 too. Thanks again for sharing the knowledge!
 
Malex, I also have a "girdle" ( from 440 Source and their steel billet main caps) and I had trouble with my rear main seal leaking also (at first). It is real tricky to get it sealed up properly with the girdle. My ending builder switched to the Mancini Real Main Seal Kit and put the right amount of sealant (in the right places) and it fixed the problem. (It did drip just a little bit at first, but then it sealed if self up after maybe 45 minutes of total run time on the motor. Not a drip at all anymore. I now have 86 1/4 mile passes on my new 505" and absolutely no rear main seal dripping whatsoever.
My best ET is now 10.512 @ 3640 lbs with me and 5 gal fuel...so I figure I am making at least 675 Horsepower to get those ET's.
My motor (on the Dyno) originally only made 602HP but that was with an INDY Dual Plane Intake and a 4150 based 850 Mighty Demon. It ran 10.95 with that setup and when I switch to an Edelbrock Victor 440 with a HVH Super Sucker 4150 to 4500 CNC Adapter and a new 1050 Dominator it then went 10.61...with no other changes. Then I switched to 2" Dougs Headers with 3 1/2 collectors and switched from 50/50 91 Pump and VP110 to straight VP110 and then went from 34 timing to 37 timing and those changes turned the 10.61 to 10.51 (all with the Air Density around 1400 feet on all comparisons). All of these numbers are with my STANDARD PORT INDY HEADS WHICH ONLY FLOW 290CFM... Can't wait to get them ported to 345-350CFM....
Good Luck with your ET's ... be sure and let us know. Mike

Mike. thanks for the tip on the rear seal. I'll definitely be checking that out with Mancini. Yes the numbers are good enough for a 6-point bar car.

Early on in the test pulls I was replacing aluminum in my burst valves lots. Once we locked the distributor out, no more problems.. We also talked about a Super victor set up, my dyno guy likes the torque in this Indy though. Think this Indy bath tub is staying put!
 
Malex, with that HP number now, that's a 9 second time slip if you get the car to hook and get the right torque converter.
 
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Malex, with that HP number now, that's a 9 second time slip if you get the car to hook nd get the right torque converter.
Thanks! Got a good 5000 Coan converter That goes well with the dyno sheet so getting a good hook will be crucial. Thinking that a good set of double adjustable shocks needs to be in order.
 
Thanks! Got a good 5000 Coan converter That goes well with the dyno sheet so getting a good hook will be crucial. Thinking that a good set of double adjustable shocks needs to be in order.

Malex (Mike)...Call Cal Trac Tech Department direct. Tell them your setup and they will recommend the bar settings and the rear shock settings. They were "spot on" with their recommendation to me. I painted 4" wide stripes on my slicks and video taped my starting line launches. The rear slicks DO NOT spin whatsoever....replaying the videos in slow motion. With my Cal Trac Bar, Mono-Leaf rear springs and Cal Trac 9 way adjustable shocks and Cal Trac 90/10 front shocks, my car HOOKS. As you can see in my Avatar Pix the car pulls both front tires about 6" off the ground (for about 3 feet out, then just goes....
 
Looks good. What did you end up with timing, jets and rods? Any lash changes?
 
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