Rear axle bearing removal

[69roadr]

I noticed that my pass. side rear wheel looked like it had slight neg. camber, so i jacked the car up, removed the wheel and brake drum, and noticed it had some play in it while wiggling it around. i have never attempted rear-end work, and have no idea where to start. am i going to need any special tools for this? what parts will i need to repair? (bearing, seal, etc.) can i buy these parts at a local auto parts store. i will also be rebuilding the wheel cylinder. is this an easy job? i just dont want to get to a point where i am stuck, and then have to call a travelling mechanic!
btw, the car is a 69 Roadrunner 383.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I assume you have the 8.75" rear end? The factory axle bearings were tapered roller and required an end play adjustment. The end play is set on the right side by turning a big castellated nut until you get .008" - .018" end play. These bearings also need to be packed and there is a skinny seal in the flange that keeps the grease from getting into the brakes. If you have a lot of axle play it's possible damage was done to that seal so you may have to pull everything off and start fresh. There is an easy way out and that is to have the "green" bearing kit installed. If you don't have oil all over the brakes then try to adjust it and check on it after a few hundred miles.

 

[69roadr]

I assume you have the 8.75" rear end? The factory axle bearings were tapered roller and required an end play adjustment. The end play is set on the right side by turning a big castellated nut until you get .008" - .018" end play. These bearings also need to be packed and there is a skinny seal in the flange that keeps the grease from getting into the brakes. If you have a lot of axle play it's possible damage was done to that seal so you may have to pull everything off and start fresh. There is an easy way out and that is to have the "green" bearing kit installed. If you don't have oil all over the brakes then try to adjust it and check on it after a few hundred miles.

hi meep-meep, what got my attention was the way the wheel looked on the car. i used a level to check vertical alignment , and it showed being off by a half inch ie. -caster. should the bearing and race fit in to the axle housing snug. my axle has all the components that you mentioned. it is the 8.75 type. i pulled the axle out yesterday, and found the bearing and retainer to be pressed on. looks like i will have to take to a machine shop, but before i do, i will need the part # for the new bearing. the green type or oem. i would prefer oem, as i dont want to mix bearings. where can i find these? thank you for all your help.

 

[1948 santa]

what you need is a Timken set 7,just google it many to choose from Summit racing has them for about 29.00 I'm sure Napa would have them also.Also if you replace one you should do the other also.

 

[69roadr]

what you need is a Timken set 7,just google it many to choose from Summit racing has them for about 29.00 I'm sure Napa would have them also.Also if you replace one you should do the other also.

well, after cleaning everything up, and inspecting all parts, i did notice that the adjusting ring was backed way off. i read that you turn it to adjust free play in the axle, but my question is, how do you lock this ring into position without it turning loose as the axle turns? this really has me stumped.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Yep, set 7 is what you need. Don't forget the skinny seal in the flange. And you will need to have it pressed off by a shop. Just make sure they don't destroy the plates trying to get it apart.

The adjuster can be a little tricky and tends to lock up when you tighten the 5 flange bolts. There is also a little metal tab that goes on one of the lower bolts and hooks between the teeth of the adjuster nut. To make the adjustment tighten the non adjustable side completely then tighten the adjuster side so the adjuster can still move (will not be all the way tight). Set the adjustment a bit loose then tighten the bolts and check it again. The idea is to have .008" - .018" when everything is tight.

 

[69roadr]

Yep, set 7 is what you need. Don't forget the skinny seal in the flange. And you will need to have it pressed off by a shop. Just make sure they don't destroy the plates trying to get it apart.

The adjuster can be a little tricky and tends to lock up when you tighten the 5 flange bolts. There is also a little metal tab that goes on one of the lower bolts and hooks between the teeth of the adjuster nut. To make the adjustment tighten the non adjustable side completely then tighten the adjuster side so the adjuster can still move (will not be all the way tight). Set the adjustment a bit loose then tighten the bolts and check it again. The idea is to have .008" - .018" when everything is tight.

thank you very much for the info meep-meep! the little tab is what i am missing, but can probably make something to work. thank you again, this is a great site!

 

[D575]

When you pull the axles make sure you don't lose the thrust pin in the 3rd member.

 

[69roadr]

When you pull the axles make sure you don't lose the thrust pin in the 3rd member.

thrust pin in 3rd. member!? how will i know that. i have since then put it all back together. as i was tightening the lug nuts, the wheel moved somewhat easily and the driver side wheel was still on the ground. is this normal, or did the thrust pin get lost? does the pin fall out easily? i test drove it after assembly, and it seemed fine.