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Rebuilt 383 Broken In and Running!

EngineerDoug

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OK guys, today was the day. I got the 383 running and broken in. Had a few hiccups like a leaking fuel fitting and dripping valve cover gaskets, but I would expect that stuff. Has a nice lope to it with the K6400 cam. Never saw any signs of trouble, and the engine temp never got much above the thermostat opening point.

On the subject of valve cover gaskets, what is the hot setup? I am using some stamped steel covers with cork gaskets, but boy did they put the oil on my exhaust manifolds. I kept re-tightening them and hoping the oil would not catch fire. So what gaskets do you recommend, and (if so) what sealer?

Thanks!
 
OK guys, today was the day. I got the 383 running and broken in. Had a few hiccups like a leaking fuel fitting and dripping valve cover gaskets, but I would expect that stuff. Has a nice lope to it with the K6400 cam. Never saw any signs of trouble, and the engine temp never got much above the thermostat opening point.

On the subject of valve cover gaskets, what is the hot setup? I am using some stamped steel covers with cork gaskets, but boy did they put the oil on my exhaust manifolds. I kept re-tightening them and hoping the oil would not catch fire. So what gaskets do you recommend, and (if so) what sealer?

Thanks!
After dealing with your exact issues with my 383 I switched to these and never looked back. Narrow bead of RTV on the rocker cover and you're set.

http://www.manciniracing.com/felprovacoga.html
 
Yes, these worked for me as well. My local parts store was able to get them as well.
Yeah, I just used Summitt as an example of the Felpro's I used. Don't remember where I actually got them.

BTW, I don't think I'll ever use cork gaskets again after using the rubber covered type.
 
It's nice to apply RTV to the valve cover only, then the gasket sticks to it, and you can R and R the covers many times without re doing the gaskets.
 
I had the same oil leak problem (passengers side) after replacing my cam. Kept snugging down the cast Mopar Performance valve cover til one of the flanges cracked. An application of RVT on both sides of the gasket sealed it up.
 
OK guys, today was the day. I got the 383 running and broken in. Had a few hiccups like a leaking fuel fitting and dripping valve cover gaskets, but I would expect that stuff. Has a nice lope to it with the K6400 cam. Never saw any signs of trouble, and the engine temp never got much above the thermostat opening point.

On the subject of valve cover gaskets, what is the hot setup? I am using some stamped steel covers with cork gaskets, but boy did they put the oil on my exhaust manifolds. I kept re-tightening them and hoping the oil would not catch fire. So what gaskets do you recommend, and (if so) what sealer?

Thanks!
After rebuilding my motor last year put these on and they havent leaked at all, and thats with pulling them off twice after adjusting rocker arms.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93055
 
This has worked like a charm for me. Get new gaskets - I use cork - don't want ANY oil on them.

Use a bead of this "Edelbrock 1077 sealant -
1077.jpg
" between the gasket and the absolutely clean valve cover. Leave the cork to head rail surface clean with no sealer. Gently bolt the cover down to an absolutely clean head rail (NO OIL surface!). Tighten snug but not as hard as you would if they were going on for good. Leave it overnight.

Unbolt the cover from the head and apply this product "Gaskacinch
71UGf3K111L._SY550_.jpg
" to the gasket, then bolt down permanent.

Gaskacinch will seal the cover to the head, but is made to easily remove. In fact, I use this set-up on an engine with mechanical lifters, so valve covers are on and off. The gaskacinch will set up like soft rubber, and if I'm careful, I can almost get the stuff off the cover gasket in a single string. The cork gasket stays stuck to the cover with the permanent RTV. When I'm ready to put them back on, I carefully clean the cork surface of the old gaskacinch and oil, then lay on another coat of gaskacinch and it's good. Can't emphasis enough how important it is to have a completely oil free surface to make this method work well.
 
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I make sure the V.C. flange is flat, then using 3M trim adhesive (the yellow snot ) glue the gasket to the V C. Place the V.C. on flat surface next to each other then place some weight on them, old battery or something equal, and let them sit over night. When you go to put them on put a light coat of cheap rtv blue, black, not the ultra this will allow them to come back off and not stick to head, tighten them easy not to bend cover just squeeze gasket a little
 
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