Hey guys and ladies. I'd like to know what's involved in getting plates for the car. From what I've read, they emission test a 1972? Of course it's not stock, it does have a pcv valve. How in the world can a 500 horse, 451 pass any emission test? Any help on this would GREATLY be appreciated. I live in Illinois now and don't even have to worry about it. It even states only one waiver is allowed.NOW I'M WORRIED! Thanks in advance. Take care, Howard
Registration of the satellite in Pheonix Az.
- Thread starter demonram
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JimKueneman
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They would emission test my 1968 Coronet if I lived in Pima or Maricopa counties. '68 was the first year of emissions.
It is Maricopa. I would have to assume it only has to have what it came with. Vent canister, pcv, as far as emission systems. I am thinking fuel injection for the future anyway.
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First off:
Have you taken it in for a SMOG test yet or is this all "Self Induced Stress"?
I LIVE in California, I have a few Muscle cars
1. CA does NOT SMOG test pre 1975 cars
2. I have a 1978 Corvette Silver Anniv 25 Year Special Edition, HOT cam, 4-speed and it passes SMOG
so: If you are listening to friends, forget it.
Simply take the car in , register it.
Because California has the "STRICTEST" SMOG Laws
***REMEMBER***
SMOG tests for pre 1978 cars are much more lenient than your new car
In Maricopa county we are required to pass emissions test for 1967 and newer vehicles.
The easiest way around it is to get collector car insurance and the emissions testing requirement is waived. With collector car insurance you are limited to a certain number of miles you can drive the car on an annual basis.
The easiest way around it is to get collector car insurance and the emissions testing requirement is waived. With collector car insurance you are limited to a certain number of miles you can drive the car on an annual basis.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Interesting. The guy at DMV said 68 was the first year but the website says 67. More interesting is there wasn't a standard in 67 so what do they test to??
http://www.rita.dot.gov/bts/sites/r...ansportation_statistics/html/table_04_34.html
http://www.rita.dot.gov/bts/sites/r...ansportation_statistics/html/table_04_34.html
PurpleBeeper
Well-Known Member
I've been to this rodeo several times. #1. Each state/county is different as to what years they smog test, so know the rules of the game before you play. #2 Some states require that all factory emission equipment is in place and functioning (Missouri does this). #3 If you do have to get a smog test, you only have to pass the emission requirements of 1972, not 2016, so you're allowed quite a bit of "smog" in a '72 car. #4 Find out what type of smog test they do in your area. You don't have a computer, so it's not a MIL connector test. Is it just visual? Do they actually put a "sniffer" up the tailpipe? Is the test at idle or on a dyno-type treadmill?
If worse comes to worse & they do use a sniffer, all of your emission stuff is hooked up & working & you fail the smog test then look at the failure test slip & see exactly WHICH part of the test you fail (e.g. hydrocarbons, NOx, CO2, etc.)
Hydrocarbons = fuel, so run the car as lean as you can get it to start. You can also spike your fuel with a lot of alcohol which burns cleaner.
NOx = oxides of nitrogen. These go up as exhaust temperature (& engine temperature) go up, so I'd try to pull out the thermostat & let the engine cool off completely a couple blocks away from the test site, then only run it enough to get it into the test bay (cold engine).
CO2 = I'd have to think about....maybe timing? If you could check your fuel mixture (sniffer or install an O2 sensor), you might be able to tune the engine to minimize CO2.
And as a side note.... in some states you cannot add fuel injection (legally) if the car didn't come with it, add true dual exhaust to a car that only was available with single exhaust, or add an engine that was not available in that car/that year. This means you can't legally put a 440 into a Cordoba that came with a lean-burn 400 (with no 440 option that year).
I played this game many years ago with a 403-Olds Trans Am. I found that if you leave all the stock valve covers & emission stuff in place, block off any unused hoses with pieces of metal rod spliced into the middle of emission hoses to block them off, etc. then you can put a Olds 455 with big-valve Toronado heads in any nobody will be the wiser since as long as you pass the sniffer test ;) in some states requiring visual inspections.
Oh yeah, and with collector insurance you're not limited (in many cases) to any mileage maximum... it's the way you plate the vehicle that matters. In Illinois anyway, you can have collector insurance & normal plates without any mileage limitation. Again, check the rules of the game in Phoenix.
If worse comes to worse & they do use a sniffer, all of your emission stuff is hooked up & working & you fail the smog test then look at the failure test slip & see exactly WHICH part of the test you fail (e.g. hydrocarbons, NOx, CO2, etc.)
Hydrocarbons = fuel, so run the car as lean as you can get it to start. You can also spike your fuel with a lot of alcohol which burns cleaner.
NOx = oxides of nitrogen. These go up as exhaust temperature (& engine temperature) go up, so I'd try to pull out the thermostat & let the engine cool off completely a couple blocks away from the test site, then only run it enough to get it into the test bay (cold engine).
CO2 = I'd have to think about....maybe timing? If you could check your fuel mixture (sniffer or install an O2 sensor), you might be able to tune the engine to minimize CO2.
And as a side note.... in some states you cannot add fuel injection (legally) if the car didn't come with it, add true dual exhaust to a car that only was available with single exhaust, or add an engine that was not available in that car/that year. This means you can't legally put a 440 into a Cordoba that came with a lean-burn 400 (with no 440 option that year).
I played this game many years ago with a 403-Olds Trans Am. I found that if you leave all the stock valve covers & emission stuff in place, block off any unused hoses with pieces of metal rod spliced into the middle of emission hoses to block them off, etc. then you can put a Olds 455 with big-valve Toronado heads in any nobody will be the wiser since as long as you pass the sniffer test ;) in some states requiring visual inspections.
Oh yeah, and with collector insurance you're not limited (in many cases) to any mileage maximum... it's the way you plate the vehicle that matters. In Illinois anyway, you can have collector insurance & normal plates without any mileage limitation. Again, check the rules of the game in Phoenix.
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I'm asking because I don't know. I've tried to find what's involved and haven't found an answer. Purple beeper as I wrote, I live in Illinois. I have regular plates so when the weather is nice, I drive it. I know the rules here, I don't worry here at all. I was hoping someone like dry heat could help me out, which he did. Thank you dry heat. Would you happen to know how many miles per year?
Crackedback
Well-Known Member
This is SPOT ON!!!
What any other state does is not relevant. I have cars that are registered in AZ because of the collector car insurance/smog waiver. Works great!
I've got to ask. How much do they charge for plates? Is it based on insured value? Also from what I've read, they limit mileage. I know this may sound petty, but after Illinois it only cost me $380.00 a year for insurance and plates. The car is insured for $27,000, at 2.89 per $100.00, that's $780.00 per year just for plates. Thanks in advance for any info! Howard
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
It is blue book value. Once it gets old enough it is just a flat rate I believe. My '68 cost me something like $12. Where you want to cry is when you have a new car that is worth $40k......
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Went and looked, $8.25 + $10 Tax (what?) + $1.50 Air Quality + $4 for a new title.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
I lied. I now remember the conversation the guy at DMV and I had. He looked up the selling price of the Coronet and had a laugh...
Note that the value of your vehicle is calculated as 60% of the original manufacturer's retail price, and that total will be lowered by 16.25% at every registration renewal. For each $100 of the vehicle's value, you will be assessed: New vehicles: $2.80. Used vehicles: $2.89.
Note that the value of your vehicle is calculated as 60% of the original manufacturer's retail price, and that total will be lowered by 16.25% at every registration renewal. For each $100 of the vehicle's value, you will be assessed: New vehicles: $2.80. Used vehicles: $2.89.
JimKueneman
Well-Known Member
Lived in Pima (Tucson) for 20 years and now Santa Cruz (SE corner of the state) for the last 12.
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