Roadrunner 383 26" Radiator Question/Help!

[mykers]

Hi there, you all have been so helpful and I am thankful for that. I searched for a forum with a similar question but to no avail. So here we go...

I just picked up a 1970 Roadrunner, 383, 727, yadda yadda. It has been sitting for 10 years and I spent two days getting it fired up; everything went fine. Question is the car is overheating so I am going to do all the standard replacements: thermostat, hoses, water pump etc.

I did notice the radiator was empty and had wolly-type boogers on the first row. My question is this I want to do a radiator flush but with the radiator outside the car. I didn't think it would be wise to perform a full flush after I changed the water pump, thermos, etc and possibly push those boogers or sediments back into the engine block. I figured once I feel satisfied with the cleanliness of the radiator, I'll do a full flush. So is there some sort of solution I can leave in the radiator to break the potential sediments or boogers if you will? Or should I just use a good ole hose to power-push-clean the radiator?

Any help would be appreciated. Also, I will eventually get the radiator remanned, just trying to get the car t remain running for longer period of time.

 

[tommygun]

my first guess would be a dilution of CLR that stuff works on everything. Let it sit with rad full of solution mix for a night then thoroughly flush.

 

[Billccm]

My dad always used two heaping cups of cascade and the garden hose. He was not a fan of the caustic cooling system cleaners and his take was cascade would rinse out easier. Pour two cups in, fill the radiator, and idle until the thermostat opens. Drain, refill with water, idle again. Drain, and add 50/50 coolant.

 

[mykers]

My dad always used two heaping cups of cascade and the garden hose. He was not a fan of the caustic cooling system cleaners and his take was cascade would rinse out easier. Pour two cups in, fill the radiator, and idle until the thermostat opens. Drain, refill with water, idle again. Drain, and add 50/50 coolant.

I agree Cascade is good for some things but I have noticed it can sometimes leave a slimy film-like substance on metal components. Then again, coolant is slimy as well. So this may just work. Thanks

 

[65-440]

Or have a radiator shop sonic clean it for you

 

[mykers]

Or have a radiator shop sonic clean it for you

For a last option yes. Out here in California they want a buck 75 to reman the radiator. That’s on the lower end too.

 

[WileERobby]

You can also use a vinegar solution.

 

[Grabinov911]

I had mine (same car, same radiator) cleaned up by A&L Radiator in Burbank, CA. The guy who runs that place gets the FBBO Thumbs Up for sure. Best price around and a straight shooter. He's an older guy working alone in the shop, and he knows all the tricks. I went back later after I put my fan into my $800 Wizard radiator (drag racing a Hellcat at the Mopar Track day at Willow Springs). After others told me it couldn't be repaired I watched him put it in a tank to find the holes and then hand solder for 30 minutes to patch them up. It's still working today, and I think I paid him $40 after he asked for $30!

 

[mykers]

I had mine (same car, same radiator) cleaned up by A&L Radiator in Burbank, CA. The guy who runs that place gets the FBBO Thumbs Up for sure. Best price around and a straight shooter. He's an older guy working alone in the shop, and he knows all the tricks. I went back later after I put my fan into my $800 Wizard radiator (drag racing a Hellcat at the Mopar Track day at Willow Springs). After others told me it couldn't be repaired I watched him put it in a tank to find the holes and then hand solder for 30 minutes to patch them up. It's still working today, and I think I paid him $40 after he asked for $30!

Thanks for that! I'll look him up!

 

[mykers]

What about torque specs for a thermostat housing and water pump on my 383. I believe the water pump is 30 foot pounds.

 

[rrTor-Red]

What about torque specs for a thermostat housing and water pump on my 383. I believe the water pump is 30 foot pounds.

You need to get a manual. They will have what specs you need. You can download for free at mymopar.com

 

[65-440]

Agreed, you need a manual. But until then, snug will do just fine for those thermostat bolts ...

 

[mykers]

Correct. I do have a manual but I apparently need a better one because there is no listing for the torque specs on a thermo housing. Thanks fellas.

 

[rrTor-Red]

If not listed, do what 65-440 said. I don't have access to my manual at the moment

 

[Billccm]

My 68 Plymouth manual shows 30 ft/lbs.

 

[rrTor-Red]

I knew it was like 20-30 but wasn't sure.

 

[mykers]

ok thanks. To be safe I followed the old mans recommendation at 30 lbs same as the water pump. you guys reaffirmed the recommendation, which I appreciate. Thanks again!

 

[Ranger16]

Heads, manifold, connecting rods etc. are one thing, but I have never used a torque wrench on anything like that. The old German torque setting, "Gutentite" works every time.

 

[eldubb440]

You can also use a vinegar solution.

he's cleaning a radiator, not a vagina

 

[mykers]

Heads, manifold, connecting rods etc. are one thing, but I have never used a torque wrench on anything like that. The old German torque setting, "Gutentite" works every time.

Couldn’t agree more. With my Oldsmo I always roughed it and just used Best judgement. But it appears attention to detail is key when explaining a problem because it’s so easy for an individual to comment, “oh well your probably leaking fluid since you didn’t use the right torque specs.”

Figured it’s just easier to eliminate one potential issue if in fact a problem arose.