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Shortening a Steering column

71_Duster

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Eventually I play to go to a borgeson power steering box in my Belvedere and ditch the manual.

Not having much luck finding a power steering center shaft.

Would it be possible to cut down a manual shaft and re-drill the hole for the roll pin of a stock coupler?
 
I am interested in finding out too, as I will be going the same route...
 
yes,it is actually very easy.i had to do mine to convert from power to manual with an adaptor.adaptor required shortening of the column.used tape to set length and cutoff wheel worked just fine.used adaptor as drill guide.stock flex joint would work just as good.
 
Eventually I play to go to a borgeson power steering box in my Belvedere and ditch the manual.

Not having much luck finding a power steering center shaft.

Would it be possible to cut down a manual shaft and re-drill the hole for the roll pin of a stock coupler?

what year?
 
Bergman Auto Craft sells the Borgeson Power Steering Box and a custom coupler that does not require any cutting or anything to replace the manual box, it all just bolts together. Got it for my 65 Coronet and the parts look great.
 
It's a 67

The Bergman site doesn't make any mention of their joint being able to swamp from a manual to power box. Not sure how it would work as the manual column is longer then the power column from factory.
 
67 & up has a slider shaft inside the other one...just tap it up to fit the length needed for power box....
 
67 & up has a slider shaft inside the other one...just tap it up to fit the length needed for power box....
Yup, 67 up has the collapsible column and you can push the shaft up into the column but it's going to take more than a tap or two. At least that's been my experience with them. Once you get the column apart, you'll see how it's put together.
 
Not sure if I feel safe doing that.

A collapsible column is a safety feature to save my chest in an accident.
 
71_Duster,

I guess I am really confused about this conversion now as I have not done mine (parts are in my garage). Borgeson says it is for power or manual conversions but they also say you have to cut the shaft unless you use Bergmans coupler, which needs no cutting but as you said - I am not sure if that means only the power to power conversion. I am going to call Peter Bergman tomorrow and find out if I can, will post what I find out. Thanks for the heads up as now I will be able to come up with a plan to figure this out.
 
Not sure if I feel safe doing that.

A collapsible column is a safety feature to save my chest in an accident.

the collapsible part is up under the dash...take a flashlight and look for yourself.

complete columns are the same power & manual. The inner shaft is just held to the outer shaft with plastic to stop noise. I have done this many times....

I would not feel safe with cutting & welding a shaft as you wanted to do in first post...please let us all know when you will be driving your car on the road with your chopped & welded steering column so we can keep out of the way
 
Our cars are welded together....I wonder how that works :D If you know how to weld and know how to make it stay straight, then I don't see the harm but if you don't know how to do this, then don't do it. Man, there's a bunch of cars on the road with narrowed rear ends and welding is what keeps them together.
 
I realize that, but cutting and welding a hardened piece like a column shaft is begging for trouble ......
 
I realize that, but cutting and welding a hardened piece like a column shaft is begging for trouble ......
I've cut a few and didn't run into any case hardening......cut em at wrecking yards with a hack saw even to get the ends I wanted then machined weld bevels without noticing hardening. Can't see why a steering column shaft would be hardened because there's very little stress on them. I'm sure they are a better grade of steel than plain old cold rolled material but never seen any that was hardened.
 
I believe this is the difference between the power and manual steering shafts, the on the bottom is for my power steering box. And they do slide but I am not sure you could slide the manual shaft in far enough? And if you did you would be at the limit where it could not collapse.
 

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it will slide in far enough....have done this many times....

if you are worried about steering wheel going through your chest, you are either driving too fast or you need to install air-bag system. Again, look under dash to see column part that collapses
 
Why not pull the bottom piece out cut the required amount and reinstall? That way it would still be collapsible.
 
Why not pull the bottom piece out cut the required amount and reinstall? That way it would still be collapsible.
That's what I've done....grind the weld and pull out the the shaft. It's splined. Cut it to what you need and reweld and put it back into the main shaft and weld it up.
 
No where in my post did I say a single thing about welding the shaft. So lets stick with the facts and not bring the attitude into things please.

In regards to the collapsing section of columns the outer section that is under the dash crushes in like an accordian but where does the metal shaft in the center go if it's solid right to the steering box now that you have hammered it in?

So as has been mentioned the extra length is the issue which needs to be either cut off from one end or the other so I can retain the plunge style mopar joint or if this isn't possible I would then need to replace the inner shaft with a shorter power steering one.

Is there anyone that has a measurement of the difference?

Quick read on SAFETY below:

"How Does a Collapsible Steering Column Work?

Collapsible steering columns still consist of a long shaft that connects the steering wheel to the steering gear box. However, the collapsible design is composed of an inner and an outer sleeve, pressed tightly together with a number of steel bearings in between. These steel bearings are pressed into the metal sleeves, and are held in place with a strong safety resin, which is designed to harden and then shatter when a specific level of pressure is applied.

In the event of a frontal impact, the steel bearings between the sleeves break free, allowing the inner sleeve to be moved further into the outer sleeve in telescopic fashion before enough pressure is achieved to ram the whole steering column into the driver. In this manner, the energy received through a frontal impact is completely absorbed by the steering column's collapsing parts, allowing most modern drivers to remain completely unaware of the danger they have avoided.

At its most basic level, the design of the steering column has remained unchanged since its inception; the column still consists of a long shaft connecting the steering wheel to the vehicle’s gearbox. The‘collapsible’ design introduced an ‘inner’ and ‘outer’ sleeve to the shaft, with a number of steel bearings pressed in between each sleeve. A strong ‘safety resin’ is used to bond the bearings to the sleeves. Once a specific level of pressure is exceeded, the special resin shatters, allowing the sleeves to compress telescopically.

Alternatively, the steel bearings can be replaced with a ‘mesh’ design that folds in a concertina fashion when an impact is received.
 
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