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So it begins!

I'm looking at getting a Cope Racing Pro Race transmission. This 727 will be a core exchange or sell?? Yeah prefer a single plane, but am tempted to run the tunnel ram this summer for a retro cool factor if I can get them to work.

That trans is what I have coming for me. I ran the tunnel ram most of the time thru the '80's with 446" & 452" and sideways mounted 650 DP's. Worked good once I got the accel pump cams & squirters sorted out. 1-4 bbl is still easier though.
 
There's a reason you don't see them carbs on the street. especially 2 of them.

Yep, probably be too much hassle. My uncle had them on his jet boat when I was a kid so I'd like to try. Not going to be the end goal.
 
It's supposed to get into the 40s this weekend!! Man I'm tired of the cold. I'm hoping to break the engine down before delivering to the builder to save $300 bucks.

So far it looks like the previous engine builder used all 440 source stuff. Has their high flow oil pump with external pick ups and remote filter. The Milodon oil pan is the race version which I can use if I go with the QA1 k member. It also has the aluminum roller rockers, but they are 1.6 ratio not 1.5...? So that means the lift is probably more like .670ish??? I have no mechanical background. I'm an ER nurse!

Anyway, been thinking of getting the Trick flow 270s, maybe I can use this rocker set up??? Then sell the Stealths, tunnel ram, and carbs to recoup some cost.

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I've re-read your complete thread. Sure looks like a great car. Your motor looks interesting, especially the cam, big lift with the 1.6 rockers & moderate duration. I know different people have different opinions on the 440 Source heads. I know 2 guys that ran them. Both had various problems, but that can happen with any brand of any part. The Trick Flow heads sure do look interesting. Curious to hear about peoples experience with them, especially the 270's. I went with the Indy EZ 1 Max Wedge port heads on my 512, worked good on the dyno, we'll see at the track. Also never realized QA 1 was local here, good to know if I need suspension stuff. Only 2 1/2 months till the drag strips open around here, & the weather should keep getting warmer.
 
We currently run two B bodys. One on radials Cal Tracks, 9.5@142. One ladder bar, stock front suspension 9.0@149 . We have also run a 10.90@123 S/S spring car. Fact; leaf spring, stock wheel well S/S springs will go low 1.40 60ft in stock style B body. Fact; stock front suspension will easily accomadate 9.0@150 ET . Fact; 10.5×29.5 slicks will fit a stock 68/69 wheel well. Fact; 1/2" tire clearance is more than enough on the street, Ive run 1/4" for 20 years. Fact: a stock 727 with a manual valve body will survive 700hp for years. Fact; an 8 3/4 will survive many runs in a 3500lbs 10 second car. Currently have 2 low 11 second cars running 8 3/4 for years with no failures. If you are going to buy a new gear, axles, etc, a Dana is a fairly cheap upgrade IF you can build a junkyard unit yourself. We run a few cars with dual Eddy carbs on the street with only pump arm, spring and rod changes. Cal Tracks and composite springs are a nice upgrade, but good shocks are a even better investment. I'd do either before I wasted money on aftermarket front suspension. My 2 cents.
Doug
 
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Doug, I agree we can go pretty fast & quick with a stock front suspension. My '65 Coronet went 10.50 - 10.60's @ 126 - 128 in early '80's with stock front suspension & imitation SS rear springs. Coronet drove good, although not as smooth & straight as my 92" wheelbase Lamb strut tube car 9.30's @ 145. I'd start with the stock front, different oil pan & the SS springs & work up from there as cash allowed.
 
We currently run two B bodys. One on radials Cal Tracks, 9.5@142. One ladder bar, stock front suspension 9.0@149 . We have also run a 10.90@123 S/S spring car. Fact; leaf spring, stock wheel well S/S springs will go low 1.40 60ft in stock style B body. Fact; stock front suspension will easily accomadate 9.0@150 ET . Fact; 10.5×29.5 slicks will fit a stock 68/69 wheel well. Fact; 1/2" tire clearance is more than enough on the street, Ive run 1/4" for 20 years. Fact: a stock 727 with a manual valve body will survive 700hp for years. Fact; an 8 3/4 will survive many runs in a 3500lbs 10 second car. Currently have 2 low 11 second cars running 8 3/4 for years with no failures. If you are going to buy a new gear, axles, etc, a Dana is a fairly cheap upgrade IF you can build a junkyard unit yourself. We run a few cars with dual Eddy carbs on the street with only pump arm, spring and rod changes. Cal Tracks and composite springs are a nice upgrade, but good shocks are a even better investment. I'd do either before I wasted money on aftermarket front suspension. My 2 cents.
Doug

..and 66Satellite47

Thanks for the comments guys. There is a lot of great info here and I am looking for ways to get the car on the road with limited funds. (of course it drives just fine with the 318...) the temp is going to be in the 50's this weekend and I'm hoping to get into the garage and get serious about making a realistic LIST of how I plan to do the drive train swap, and what order to do it. I Have been laying the ground work to locate local guys that might help stretch my funds by rebuilding the included 727 with a manual valve body, and maybe rebuilding the 8 3/4 with a sure grip. so far I plan to shave the inner lip and not do the spring relocation at this time. ( due to interesting replacement quarter skins, rolling the lip didn't work) I am going ahead with Caltracs and shocks.
 
The Trick Flow heads take different rockers I believe than the stealths. To get the geometry right.
 
Good to hear the feedback from dvw and 66Satellite47. After contacting QA1 it appears their K Member will not have clearance for my external oil lines as I had hoped.

Also looks like the M1 mopar performance single plane intake has been discountinued?? I was hoping it might fit under my hood.

Still in the 20s-30s here so nothing done but aquiring more parts.
 
Good to hear the feedback from dvw and 66Satellite47. After contacting QA1 it appears their K Member will not have clearance for my external oil lines as I had hoped.

Also looks like the M1 mopar performance single plane intake has been discountinued?? I was hoping it might fit under my hood.

Still in the 20s-30s here so nothing done but aquiring more parts.
Older single planes like Torker or TM7 Tarantula would fit. Probably be real good on the street. Small runners, good velocity. Some stuff on ebay, mighty pricey for the most part.
 
Love what you're doin. Man, twin predators sitting on a tunnel ram. When I was 14 back in the 80's i used to drool over that setup.

M1's are easy enough to find here for sale or on Moparts.
 
Older single planes like Torker or TM7 Tarantula would fit. Probably be real good on the street. Small runners, good velocity. Some stuff on ebay, mighty pricey for the most part.

Agree! I had put a tm6 on my 511 just playing around. It's small but it's brutal on the street. I'm sure a modern intake will out horsepower it but, in a street b body low end torque isn't a bad thing.
 
Agree! I had put a tm6 on my 511 just playing around. It's small but it's brutal on the street. I'm sure a modern intake will out horsepower it but, in a street b body low end torque isn't a bad thing.

A TM7 with modern heads & the correct cam should really pull 4500 - 6000+. I too ran the TM6 on my 452 low deck. I welded up the intake bolt "dimples" & ground lump out of the port, made pretty good power for the day & ran up past 7000. Hard on cranks. For Bigfoots setup, seems like TM7 would be a good choice to fit under the hood.
 
Been away for a while, thanks for intake input, with a single plane would a Quick fuel 950 would be a good choice?
 
For mostly street a bit smaller would be good. Small carbs can really do well. On my new motor the bigger carbs only added a few HP compared to my old 850 DP on the dyno.
 
I run a 1050an on my roadrunner that I built. Great carb on the 511, once I got it dialed you can wood it from anywhere in the rpm range including idle and it just flat gets it. It's a 1.59 Venturi compared to a 1.56 of an 850. I'm not sure it would work as well though if it were the downleg boosters. The old 850 Holley is a big carb, some of the these other 850's like a proform are much smaller 1.40 Venturi's.

The QuickFuel 950 is a 1.45 Venturi, on paper it's smaller than an old Holley 850. My carb started out as a proform 850, after some research I just threw the big main body at it. Very glad I did! I did spend a lot of time and effort on it, and it actually seems to get damn good mileage and runs very clean for a big carb.

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Good news...welded in sub frame connectors, rear shocks and springs re-located, mini tubbed, and Superstock springs. Bad News ...?

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