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Soda blasting ?

Aarons Air

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I am trying to decide on the best practical method of stripping this fresh botched paint job. I'm considering soda blasting as i do not think it would affect the bodywork ( mud ) like sanding the paint off may. Am i correct in my assumption ? Is it a practical solution, cost wise? In comparison to the $200 per panel stripping fee a body shop charges ?

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what did you do to cause this? what was the problem?
 
what did you do to cause this? what was the problem?
What i did, was to hire the wrong painter. Apparently, he forgot hardener in his 1st coat of clear. Then sprayed a 2nd coat 2 days later, with hardener. After which it wrinkled.
 
What i did, was to hire the wrong painter. Apparently, he forgot hardener in his 1st coat of clear. Then sprayed a 2nd coat 2 days later, with hardener. After which it wrinkled.
is it soft still? can it be scrapped off ? or washed with reducer? you will have to resand after either way? thats a time consuming job either way..
 
Yes. But after seeing the chassis i repoed it before he did the other oarts. Thought it best to cut my losses.
 
Another vote to make that painter do the right thing.
Intolerable situation, right there. Worth going to war over.
 
What makes it awkward to boot is, the guy has a medical discharge from army. Trying to work for himself.
 
No. He's had it at his shop for almost 3 months.
The bad part is , its a complete redo.. that will be costly.. is there a fair amount of filler in this? sodi blasting works.. but will it remove soft uncured product? or just stick to the paint?
 
The bad part is , its a complete redo.. that will be costly.. is there a fair amount of filler in this? sodi blasting works.. but will it remove soft uncured product? or just stick to the paint?
Those are good questions. I just found a guy on craigs with a mobile system. He comes to you. I emailed my concerns.
I see videos of people doing ( wet soda ) blasting. Strip a car in less than an hour!
 
Those are good questions. I just found a guy on craigs with a mobile system. He comes to you. I emailed my concerns.
I see videos of people doing ( wet soda ) blasting. Strip a car in less than an hour!
the sodi blasting or water blasting is good.. But it still leaves a big mess.. inside and out.. though its easy on outer panels.. I would be inclined to wash off what you can and sand the rest.. whats on there wont hurt the primer underneath.. just get that mess off of there.. and let it air dry for a while to get the chemicals out..
 
Soda blasting will cut into the mud also. If the paint is hard, which even the uncatalyzed coat will air dry, i would take advantage of the material & Block with long board with 150 thru 220 & reprime. In order to help the paint cure, open it up with the 150, then stick it outside for a couple weeks to expand & contract & vent off solvents(paint vents solvent up to a year). Then block it religiously, accurately from 150 to 220. Reprime all the areas where top coat is gone through with 3 rich coats. After primer kicks, cut it open with block & 320 & again let it sit out & vent, expand, contract. Then block it out to the desired finish grit. That depends on type of paint...if it's two stage with watetborne base coat, then everything will have to be @ least 1000(some watetborne base coats call for 2000) If the base coat is solvent borne, then 400 is as fine as You want to go. Same with a solvent base single stage.
I'd suggest You pm eldubb440 & get His take(in the body work/refinish game, there's a million ways to skin a cat & nobody does every step all the same). He is very practiced on current materials. He did hsorman's RR a couple years ago & Hawk is very Happy with Dub's work.
 
Soda blasting will cut into the mud also. If the paint is hard, which even the uncatalyzed coat will air dry, i would take advantage of the material & Block with long board with 150 thru 220 & reprime. In order to help the paint cure, open it up with the 150, then stick it outside for a couple weeks to expand & contract & vent off solvents(paint vents solvent up to a year). Then block it religiously, accurately from 150 to 220. Reprime all the areas where top coat is gone through with 3 rich coats. After primer kicks, cut it open with block & 320 & again let it sit out & vent, expand, contract. Then block it out to the desired finish grit. That depends on type of paint...if it's two stage with watetborne base coat, then everything will have to be @ least 1000(some watetborne base coats call for 2000) If the base coat is solvent borne, then 400 is as fine as You want to go. Same with a solvent base single stage.
I'd suggest You pm eldubb440 & get His take(in the body work/refinish game, there's a million ways to skin a cat & nobody does every step all the same). He is very practiced on current materials. He did hsorman's RR a couple years ago & Hawk is very Happy with Dub's work.
i suspected it might cut into the mud too. Thanks for all the insight.
 
i suspected it might cut into the mud too. Thanks for all the insight.
You bet! You'll get many different opinions on how to approach it, nature of the beast. I keep my hand in straightening/refinishing, but haven't done it for a living since turn of millenium. Have no hands on exp. with water base. 'Dub does do this for a living daily. What i have seen of His work here shows very well in pix....very straight, detail concious. I would trust any game plan he offered & as i say, He is up to speed on present day materials. For my needs, on a hobby volume, i go out of my way to acquire sovent based paints, whether 2 stage or single stage.
If it's non-metalic color, i go single stage always, i'm not fond of clear, but in the case of metalics it's a neccessary evil. Most of the Country, solvent base is still legal, but not in California.....low VOC solvent base urethane clears & low VOC single stage urethanes can still be used here, but that's a terminal equation too. When i get my chop bug to the point of topcoat, Black, i'll shoot it in single stage acrylic enamel or nitro lacquer, which i'll have to go out of state to get. Whatever direction You end up taking, the soundest advice i can impart is to allow Generous cure windows for each material applied, before working it & applying more over the top, whether it be filler, primer, paint. Let em kick, cut em open & let them vent, block em out & procced to next application. Refinish problems are the major reason for comebacks in production collision shops because the materials are worked too fast & all sandwiched together without adequete venting.
 
I would post that quest and pics on autobody101.com . A lot of paint and body guys sharing tips and techniques with newbies. As for what I would do if were mine and I did not want to do it myself, I would find a legitimate car restoration shop in your area and let them evaluate it and let them tell you how they would like to fix it. If I was going to do it my self, I would take it down to the first known GOOD level and build back up from there. If your not sure what that GOOD level is, take it back to bare metal and do it all correctly.
 
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