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Sparton Beep Beep Horn restoration with photos

idrivemopar

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Hi Everyone, I wanted to share the process of restoring Beep Beep or Meep Meep horns, which ever one you prefer.

Here is what you need to do the job
1. Correct color paint, i got the Delstar PPG paint from YearOne
2. 1 File Folder and a water repellent or sealer
3. A good fine wire wheel on your bench grinder or drill
4. A derusting solution - I used evapo rust
5. A self etching primer or appropriate primer for bare metal
6. E-10-ST Steel Rivets with Zinc coating - Available from Hanse Rivet Supply - If you need some let me know, i had to buy mininum of 100 so i have extras!
7. HT-171 Hand Rivet Clinch tool for 3/16 inch rivets

Ok, once you have all the stuff ready the process is pretty easy.

1. Drill out the rivets and remove the screw posts that hold the mounting bracket on.
2. Clean the rust and old paint off with wire wheel - as much as you can here.
3. Soak the parts in de-rusting solution to get the rest, then rinse and clean any remaining paint.
4. This next part is important to prevent future rust. The inside of the grill and the inside edges of the body and bellows should be pre-primed and painted before assembly. I dont think they did this at the factory hence the large amount of rust inside the horn. So, you will want to primer all parts inside and out, except you dont need to do the inside of the horn body, just the edge. (See Pictures below)
5. Once you have pre-painted these surfaces, you can move on to assembly.
6. Use the file folder mentioned above, cut two gaskets from the folder, you can trace around the outside edge of the horn body to get the outer diamerter, and you will want about 1/4 inch in to get the inner diameter. Also when tracing the outer diameter, trace the hole locations, you can use a paper hole punch to cut those out.
7. Once you have your paper gaskets cut, spray them with a sealer, i used scotch guard.
8. Assemble the parts in this order, horn body, then gasket, then bellows, then 2nd gasket, then grill.
9. Before riveting back together, i used screws to hold the horn together and tested to make sure it still works, and gave it a rough tune with the adjustment screw on the horn body. Make sure to clean the primer and paint off the horn grill where the mounting bracket makes contact with the horn grill, you will need bare metal here for good ground contact, and its easy to remove with a dremel with small wire wheel.
10. Once you are satisfied everying is working, the next step is to insert and clinch the rivets, make sure you orient them properly with the clinched side on the same side as the horn body. ( See photos)
11. Once you have riveted back together, attach the horn mount leaving the bare metal to contact the horn grill.
12. Next do the final paint of the horn. Make sure to get inside the grill as you may see the edges of the paper gaskets.

Here are some photos of the process along the way.

Horn Comp5.jpg
Horn body pre-paint small.jpg
Horn bellows pre-paint small.jpg
Horn grill pre-paint small.jpg
Horn Comp4small.jpg
horn gaskets small.jpg
Horn Riveted 1 small.jpg
Horn Riveted 2 small.jpg
Horn Final Paint small.jpg
Horn Final Paint 1 small.jpg

Horn Comp5.jpg Horn body pre-paint small.jpg Horn bellows pre-paint small.jpg Horn grill pre-paint small.jpg Horn Comp4small.jpg Horn Final Paint small.jpg Horn Final Paint 1 small.jpg Horn Riveted 1 small.jpg Horn Riveted 2 small.jpg horn gaskets small.jpg
 
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I was editing, they are back now, the order got all screwed up!

- - - Updated - - -

By the way, my materials cost to do these with the voice of the roadrunner stickers, paint, rivets, and clinch tool was 112 bucks. Now you can get an repro horn for 75 plus shipping, but i did restore two horns so 56 bucks each was not bad. Also, i wanted to keep the original Stanton horns because not sure where the repros are made, guessing Taiwan.
 
I think you mean Sparton horns. But very nice work and good tutorial.
 
I think you mean Sparton horns. But very nice work and good tutorial.

You are correct sir! Been doing so much work lately I didn't even notice that, and not sure how I got stanton from sparton. Hahahaha.
 
Thanks that's a great job and great resto tech write up!

p.s. anyone have feedback on the re-pops vs original quality / appearance / sound?
 
Thanks that's a great job and great resto tech write up!

p.s. anyone have feedback on the re-pops vs original quality / appearance / sound?

Actually moparmark told me yesterday the re-pops dont sound the same as originals, and are not as loud. Thats all i have heard and one of the reason i saved my original, its loud and sounds good!!!!
 
Actually moparmark told me yesterday the re-pops dont sound the same as originals, and are not as loud. Thats all i have heard and one of the reason i saved my original, its loud and sounds good!!!!

can you post a sound or video up .. would love to hear it
 
Considering the extra materials & paint you have and the cost of doing it per horn I bet you could gather 4 or 5 horns off here and do one big resto for a group at the same time and make a few bucks! If that was something you were interested in doing that is.
 
Hi all,

With all that great rebuild info, one minor thing was not mentioned. What is the tool, or socket that is used on the tapered head sound adjustment screw? I hate ruining these screws by using a needle type channel lock pliers to grab it. No matter how I search, the tool is never mentioned. Are the screws never meant to be adjusted? Thank you so much.

Vinny
 
Tool was never mentioned because there wasn't one when I rebuilt the horns or there was, but I didn't use it. I checked the Torx socket, and its not an E8, that is too small, couldn't find locally an E9, and E10 is too big.
 
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idrivemopar,

Very good write up and pics but could you explain exactly how you installed the new rivets. I'd like to attempt this and have got the rivets and clinch tool already. Did you use a press on the clinch tool ? I can only imagine that whacking it with a hammer will only mar/flatten the rivet head and not being consistent on the blow to the tool will only give each rivet a different appearance and it's securing.

Thanks
 
Speaking of Sparton original horns, I have 2. What is the best way to test without a battery...has anyone simply used a battery charger?
 
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