Spindle Question

[67 GTX]

Hey guys,

On a 67 front drum brake spindle, is each spindle specific to driver's and passenger's sides? Or do both spindles interchange from driver's to passenger's side?

This is on a 67 gtx.

Thanks!

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I'm no expert, but I think spindles are right/left specific because the "main body" of the spindle (not the "spindle" itself... hard to explain) has an arm sticking back for the tie rod end to connect to.... at least that's the case on '70 spindles.

 

[69Bee]

The lower ball joint/tie rod arm bolt onto the spindle, as well as the backing plate. I do not think there is a problem with switching them if needed. According to the 67 Parts manual, they are the same part. B Body without disc brake column.

 

[67 GTX]

I found the same thing from the parts manual as well. But when I was re-installing my front end, the lower ball joint nut kept making contact with the spindle. I appears that there might be a slight difference between the spindles. When looking at the back of them, there appears to be a very slight relief dish on the curve part that curves up to the top to connect to the upper balljoint.

I'm now in the process of trying to disassemble and swap spindles.

 

[67 GTX]

I can now confirm that while they are the same part number, they are side dependent. There is a slight relief cast into them, which allows for clearance of the lower ball joints nut/stud. Flipping them created contact and a lot of resistance when trying to turn the spindle.
Best thing I can offer is that if it is set up right, when you do your front end rebuild, mark the spindles. I did this for every single part, except them

 

[69Bee]

I would have to respectfully disagree. If they were side dependent, they would have a different casting number. I would be more inclined to think about non-OEM replacement ball joints. If you felt resistance turning by hand, this is normal, and you won't feel this at the wheel. These spindles are identical as they came from the same mold casting. I did not keep track of my spindles for my 69 Super Bee, and had no problems. Even when I converted to disc brakes using OEM Mopar parts, I had to swap the right and left spindles to clear the shocks/calipers interference, and they still worked fine being a right/left combination.

 

[67 GTX]

I would have to respectfully disagree. If they were side dependent, they would have a different casting number. I would be more inclined to think about non-OEM replacement ball joints. If you felt resistance turning by hand, this is normal, and you won't feel this at the wheel. These spindles are identical as they came from the same mold casting. I did not keep track of my spindles for my 69 Super Bee, and had no problems. Even when I converted to disc brakes using OEM Mopar parts, I had to swap the right and left spindles to clear the shocks/calipers interference, and they still worked fine being a right/left combination.

Understood, no malice noted.
I should've been clearer. When I meant resistance, I meant metal to metal contact. After I swapped the spindles, that contact went away and now everything rotates smoothly. It would sort of pop when trying to force it to turn before I swapped the spindles (it also left pretty good gouge marks on all my now paint surfaces).

 

[69Bee]

Understood, no malice noted.
I should've been clearer. When I meant resistance, I meant metal to metal contact. After I swapped the spindles, that contact went away and now everything rotates smoothly. It would sort of pop when trying to force it to turn before I swapped the spindles (it also left pretty good gouge marks on all my now paint surfaces).

No problems, didn't feel as if you were busting my balls, and I wasn't yours either. Just trying to help out. It is also possible to have other issues that could cause the contact like a bent frame, misaligned upper arms causing a tighter angle in the knuckle, or even bent upper arms. As long as it fits, your good to go.

 

[67 GTX]

So last weekend, after swapping the spindles from side to side, everything was good. Today, the passenger side makes contact
Not sure what changed with the car just sitting for a week, but who knows.

I can alleviate the issue with a bottle jack underneath the lower control arm, raising it up until the lower ball joints straightens out. I tried adjusting the upper control arm, changing its angle relative to everything, but that didn't help.
The torsion bar is also already tensioned.

Can anyone guess what's wrong here? All components were reused from before, as in they were all on a working, driving car that didn't have this issue. The only new pieces in that entire area are the upper and lower ball joints.

I do not have the shocks on, so those should hold the entire assembly up a little bit more?

 

[hemi71x]

There is no left or right Drum brake spindle.
All the same thing, either side.
You got your vehicle up on jack stands, don't you?
That's why you think you have clearance problems.
When your car is back on the ground, with wheels and tires, everything will be back to normal.

 

[67 GTX]

There is no left or right Drum brake spindle.
All the same thing, either side.
You got your vehicle up on jack stands, don't you?
That's why you think you have clearance problems.
When your car is back on the ground, with wheels and tires, everything will be back to normal.

That's how the car is held up. It's been like that for the past 7 months basically, except for being lowered once and then put right back up.
What you said might be the cause. The driver's door opens, but the passenger's doesn't. So the car probably is just a bit out of wack due to being up for so long.

Hopefully it all fixes itself once it gets placed back on the tires.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

This is cool stuff....never thought you could swap spindles side-to-side, maybe because I don't own a '67 drum car.