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Street/Strip car question

OK charger

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In the process of trying to decide a couple of things for my 440/74 charger project. I intend to have this car be a weekend fun/race car with occasional street duty. My two questions are...which 8 3/4 rear will fir this car with no/minimal hassle and if I want to switch the power steering for manual steering to save weight and room do I just swap the power steering box for a manual steering box and that's it? Never gone this far before and I know you guys will know how.
 
What kind of horsepower do you plan on having? 8 3/4 rearend definitely has its limits when your talking about getting traction. Search 8 3/4 or dana 60 theres a good thread debating which set up to use. As for the power steering obviously the box needs to be changed and maybe the column? I can't remember someone will chime in and know for sure.
 
I'm going for about 450-500 horse. I always thought the 8 3/4 could handle that plus be easier/less expensive but I'm all ears right now. It has an 8 1/4 now because its originally a 318/ auto car. I plan on staying automatic. just wanted to drop the power steering because its a big weight reduction plus much simpler.
 
There is an adaptor for the steering column to switch from power to manual. The 8 3/4 should be ok with that power level with an auto trans.
 
IMO, the 8-3/4 is OK at that level. The enemy is the power plus traction along with weight. Keep dead hooking that with slicks at full weight and some more power than your talking about and you'll twist the rear up or break it.

My friend ran a all steel '68 Dart with a stroker 440/500 w/Indy heads into the 9's with a 8-3/4 for several years until it broke. It's tough enough.
 
Rear End - I agree the 8-3/4" is fine for you + MUCH cheaper + MUCH easier to change gears. I believe the rear ends got wider in '71 (vs. '70 & earlier) in B-bodies. The '71+ ones "might" be the same as the E-body, but definitely wider than a '70 & under.

To go cheap, & just bolt in an assembled rear from another car, the #1 thing is to make sure the distance between the spring perches is the same as what you already have. The #2 thing is to make sure the rear end isn't too wide for tires/wheels to fit.

If you have a little more cash and/or don't mind cutting & re-welding spring perches and re-setting pinion angle, you can get more tire clearance by installing a '70 & earlier rear end OR maybe even an A-body 8-3/4" (a little tough to find).

In all cases, I think your driveshaft length will be off too, so you "might" need a different driveshaft as well. And don't forget, there are two different u-joint sizes. Oh yeah, there's something about the "iso-link" rear suspension that I think has to be addressed too.

It can be done. A shop put an 8-3/4" rear in my '77 Cordoba that had the iso-link rear suspension.

Manual Steering - all you need is the steering shaft extension as mentioned above, the manual steering box & a pitman arm. I believe the pitman arm changed to one with a bigger hole (with power steering) for the "sector gear" (or something like that), but the manual boxes kept the older, smaller size. The Pitman arm is slightly different.
 
According to a chart, the 71-74B drum to drum width is 63" with perch to perch being 47.3" and the E body is 61 1/2" with 46" perch to perch. The E body rear looks like a good fit to me.....and I've heard of several just moving the springs over to bolt up. I know the 71-74 B's have large wheel wells so the options are good.
 
Thanks guys. I knew you all would know. Keep it coming if you got more. I at least have an idea of where to look now.
 
For manuel steering you need the box and the steering extension/ adapter. I think flaming river sells one... You will be fine with the 8 3/4 , check out my 73 charger build. I built mine to be a true street strip car also. 8 3/4s built seem to be holding up very well so far.
 
Btw my 8 3/4 had the strange ss axles , Richmond gears, and a strange sure grip. Before I took weight out of my car it weighed 4k with me in it and would run 11.5s consistent with a best of 11.2 . . .never had a great 60' I think it was always like 1.69 but still it's a 4k lb. car with 700hp and it holds up
 
Go big the first time with a Dana 60 so you don't spend the money twice...like me...

8 3/4's don't do well with traction, weight and power!
 
IMO a 8 3/4 will hold up to 450+ Hp for a while. My '65 Coronet 426 Wedge came with 2 broken 4 spds, one good one & a broken 8 3/4 that had twisted axle. If you go with the 8 3/4 get good axles (Strange, MW, Moser,). A well set up 8 3/4 will hold up to 500 HP for a while. If you go with a Dana 60 & good axles 600 HP + is no problem for a long time, especially if you go to a spool.
 
Maybe I'm just the minority that has a built 8 3/4 holding up to abuse in a 3800lb car with around 700hp lol
 
Maybe I'm just the minority that has a built 8 3/4 holding up to abuse in a 3800lb car with around 700hp lol

496BEE, I think you are very lucky. I agree a well prepared 8 3/4 will hold up to quite a bit of power for some time. A Dana 60 is just a fair amount stronger.
 
496BEE, I think you are very lucky. I agree a well prepared 8 3/4 will hold up to quite a bit of power for some time. A Dana 60 is just a fair amount stronger.

I put the Strange S60 in the Charger and upgraded to 1350 U-Joints and new driveshaft at the same time. Once the '71 Charger started running 12.0 and quicker the 8-3/4 sure-grip started making bad noises. I though about back bracing the 8-3/4", getting a spool, and axles and all that to build up the old 8-3/4 and I think the cost started getting close to the price of the new S60.

If your interested in the old abused 8-3/4" (3.91:1 gear, sure-grip, 741 case, stock axles) let me know.
 
When I first got into the 10 second range (10.36 now) I put in a Dana 60 with all new Moser parts and a spool. Never looked back....My next years plan, after I do a full year of racing this year, is to do whatever it then takes to put my car into the high 9's.....I absolutely do NOT worry about my rear end at all.
 
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