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Thermostat

grubby65

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What is everyone using for thermostats? I am going to purchase a new thermostat for my car and would like to install a high flow unit. I had a Mr. Gasket high flow unit, but it failed after about a month. Put it in 185 degree water and it never opened, allowed the water to boil and it still never opened. Don't want to go through that again. I looked at the Robert Shaw thermostats offered by FlowKooler, but they are out of stock.
 
Stant is top notch. I bet your local Mopar dealer has a good one too. and I agree, test it before you install it.
 
This month's Mopar Muscle magazine had a nice article about cooling system recommendations. They mentioned several times that a Milodan 160 degree thermostat is a MUST for any Mopar Muscle car. I got the impression that this is the thermostat they use in every Mopar they have.

Not sure of the brand in my Road Runner, but it seems to open right around 190F.
 
I run a 180, not sure the brand. But yeah, testing is a must. not sure why they'd say 160 is a must, though my dad insists on one in his 327 vette. I have the 195 stat that my FSM says is oem, I just don't use it as it doesn't allow enough wiggle room for me on a hot day stuck in traffic.
 
My A Body friends all run 160F thermostats in their 340 'warmed over' cars, but the stock stuff gets a 180F. I'm going to re-read the article tonight, but they kind of hint that the stock cooling system is not even adequate for a warmed up motor.
 
I also prefer a Stant....I also drill a small air bleed hole in the flange to allow easy filling and self bleed of air in the block. I would not drop below 180 degree thermostat. You do not wish to build up unwanted deposits in your block especially if this engine see mostly short local runs.
 
I put a 180 in my 92 318 Dakota and when it was cold out it would throw an engine stays cool too long code.
 
160 hi flow stats and a 7 or 10 lbs pressure cap on all my pre 1975 cars with no problem. Open system caps on all 1971 and earlier with out overflow reservoirs and closed system caps on all with overflow tanks. I see many people making the mistake of running closed system caps without overflow reservoirs.
 
Starting in the late 1960s, higher-temperature thermostats—185°, 190°, 195°, and even 200°—were installed at the factory to help clean up emissions. Hotter coolant means more complete combustion because of less quench-out, so there would be fewer unburned hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon monoxide (CO) in the exhaust. But higher combustion chamber temperatures also mean more oxides of nitrogen (NOx) in the exhaust, so starting in 1971 the factory began backing down on thermostat temp—from 190° to 185°, for example; specifics depended on engine and configuration. But then in 1973, valve-regulated exhaust gas recirculation came along as an effective NOx control strategy, so thermostat temps started climbing again; the spec was 195° pretty much across the board by 1974.
Generally, and within reason, hotter coolant is better. A hotter engine is more efficient, and there’s less engine wear and longer engine life, because there’s less unburned fuel to wash the oil down off the cylinder walls. The exhaust contains less toxic unburned fuel and carbon monoxide.
The thermostat controls the minimum temperature of the engine. It cannot control the maximum temperature.
 
What is everyone using for thermostats? I am going to purchase a new thermostat for my car and would like to install a high flow unit. I had a Mr. Gasket high flow unit, but it failed after about a month. Put it in 185 degree water and it never opened, allowed the water to boil and it still never opened. Don't want to go through that again. I looked at the Robert Shaw thermostats offered by FlowKooler, but they are out of stock.


Mancini Racing has the Robert Shaw high volume thermostats - I'm running a 180 degree one in my '65 Coronet. They flow better than the Stant thermostats do.
 
My 440 stroked to a 494 seems to run too cool - at least if measured by what the gauge says. It only gets to about half way to the warm line. I had the original radiator triple cored when I had the engine rebuilt. Could it be the reason the engine seems to be running cool? I have to pull it to see what thermostat the builder put in there. What I'm seeing on this thread is 180 - 190 seems to be optimal. I guess it could also be the gauge isn't reporting correctly..... ??
 
My 440 stroked to a 494 seems to run too cool - at least if measured by what the gauge says. It only gets to about half way to the warm line. I had the original radiator triple cored when I had the engine rebuilt. Could it be the reason the engine seems to be running cool? I have to pull it to see what thermostat the builder put in there. What I'm seeing on this thread is 180 - 190 seems to be optimal. I guess it could also be the gauge isn't reporting correctly..... ??

I'd bet you have no stat at all.
 
Opinions like belly buttons. 180 minimum won't cause excessive wear. 180 is the minimum as stated above. For a 69, 180. 190, 195 up is an emissions related number for 70-71 up when the Feds got involved. Like water pumps, I avoid "high" anything. High flow, high performance etc. The engineers already figured out the best flow rates etc. 48 years ago. Everything ne wants an edge. Sometimes the basic Ma Mopar rated stuff is just right. Never a problem with the Stant Superstat. Use a laser temp gun to be sure of actual temperature. Like pink coolant, there is only one way to properly cool a classic Mopar. Green. Not permanent.
 
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