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Time to hit the Track.

Would that only be the situation with a manual valve body? If it applies to factory also, post if lengthening the cable adjustment made the difference. That's how I set my cable adjustment but it won't be road tested until later.
Yes Sir Kid. Reverse manual. My road test will be on the hoist on jack stands, when the neighbours are at work. :)
 
Yes I love my electric W/P and fans. I can pull to the line nice and cool.
Yes Wookie, everybody is staying nice and cool and I could make hot dogs off the Indy intake.. I'm looking forward to seeing lower coolant temps too.

I built this Plymouth so that I could have fun at the track with it and jump in and cruise as well. Now that I've made a few passes I've found that things that work fine for a street driven car sure don't work too well at the track.. The ET Streets have been replaced, the high volume water pump is getting swapped out for a meziere unit along with an adjustable trans brake button. Right now I'm using the line lock button on top of the shifter and I've seen as many red lights as green.
 
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Adjustable brake button is a nice thing. I too am getting used to the quicker 60 foot and need to watch as I hit the red more often than I like. When I'm on though I'm getting good at havin one .0 in the RT. Now I need .00 in the RT :D
 
Well, could have been a better day at the track, that's for sure. First test pass this morning WTF, no 3rd gear... So much for that. Turns out that last week when I dropped the valve body to change the shift selector seal, I didn't get the cable set just right. I did make sure it started in neutral and park but didn't run it through the gears to make sure I was grabbing 3rd before going to the track. Ok so no big deal right, a quick adjustment, well that turned out to be a real pain in the *** dragged out job. Hot headers, trans blanket in the way, no room. Make an adjustment, try it, needs a little more, well the headers are hot again, delay delay. Messed up the day. But a better 1.500 60' right off, so heading in the right direction and the car felt good.
Will get it all good in the days ahead and will also upgrade to a good electric water pump before the next time out.

So it turns out that my shift cable was the reason I couldn't get 3rd gear. The cable had touched the header at some point and it ended up becoming stiff to the point that the cable wouldn't slide enough to get 3rd. I removed the cable and it was bloody stiff to slide. A new one is one order and I was able to free the existing one up nicely with lubrication and by working it. With the TTI headers it's pretty hard to not fry a cable. I thought I'd reinstall the existing cable since it's slides good again and try finding a new path.

I ended up going this route. It works good and smooth, full travel and nowhere near any heat source. The Hurst Quarter Stick has a 4' cable and it just makes it. Take a look. The cable goes around the right side now and up.

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I use the quarter stick as well. I wrapped the cable with header wrap then bought the 3M silver vent duct tape and wrapped over the header wrap multiple times. It looks goofy but works well. No heat burns last 3 years.
 
New ET Drags are on and heading up to make some more passes in the 64. Half a dozen passes are under the belt now and best to date is 10.7 @ 125MPH / 1.53 60'. Stay tuned!

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Sure wish I would have put a door on the left side of the trailer. With the sedan that door post is a bugger to squeeze through.. I see I missed removing a sticker on that right tire.



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Lots easier loading up myself now with the rail along the right side and tire stop. I can get the car over without worrying about getting too close. That hood and the 2 hinges weigh 80 lbs! That's on the change order list too.

Sledcityfiberglass.com
 
Heading back to the track in the morning. Hoping for better luck than last time with that stiff shift cable that wouldn't give me 3rd gear.. Will be running a Meziere electric water pump this time around along with a new trans brake button.
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Looking for better 60' times with the ET Drags.
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Kill switch is to the right of the gas tank neck. Tech didn't like that. Said open the flap so we can see it, so I did. Then they said nope, don't like that neither, take the plate right off. So I did. That look bugged me so I made a filler plate. Wondering how that's gonna go over.
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With some adjustments I hope to get rid of the red lights I'm good at getting.
 
Looks great as usual

Good luck...
 
Tell us your results. .. good luck...
Spent July 9th at the track and it was a scorcher. Got in 3 test passes and one race and concluded that the stock fuel tank with the sump has to go. On launch the pump is getting a gulp of air and messes up the pass. The gauge will flat line after launch and then fart around and never really recover. On my second pass it fell off so bad that I just got out of it and coasted through. The best I could muster up on the weekend was during my one race with a 10.87 @ 123.7 mph., 1.520 60'.
During the day I replaced the in-line filter hoping that may be a problem, even changed out the new aeromotive pump after the 3rd pass with another used pump. I ran the one race with a full tank of fuel just to eliminate pump cavitation.
So while enduring another day of working the bugs out of the 64 I'm having a hoot! I'm getting seat time and with the new adjustable trans brake button there were no red lights and my launches were consistent. The Meziere water pump also worked like a charm, dropped my coolant temp by 40 degrees in the staging lanes. 160, down from 205 previously.

A fuel cell is on the way and will be in place before the next time out. I'll be researching how to set that up, and would appreciate any input and pics of your set ups.

A few months ago some of the members were suspect of possible problems with the stock tank/sump set up and there concerns were correct.
 
Got the Meziere pump on order now Mike. Today in the staging lanes by the time I got up into the burnout box my temp was 205-210.
That's super hot to start off. A stock eliminator friend of mine advised 130 in the burnout and no more than 140 at the line. Been running our's that way for a long time. We use a cheap, Morosso electric water pump. It doesn't cool as quickly as the one described above. That's been a problem in late rounds in the past. Hope to have that problem again soon!
 
That's super hot to start off. A stock eliminator friend of mine advised 130 in the burnout and no more than 140 at the line. Been running our's that way for a long time. We use a cheap, Morosso electric water pump. It doesn't cool as quickly as the one described above. That's been a problem in late rounds in the past. Hope to have that problem again soon!
Yes, a problem I too would like to have - late rounds.. But I'll get there. Prior to the electric pump, by the time I would make my way up to do my burnout it was always at 200+. Gone with the mechanical pump and now the tank is heading to the same place.
 
i run a sumped stock tank in my 68 . never more than 1/2 full and run it down through the day , never had an issue .

Tex
 
Yes, a problem I too would like to have - late rounds.. But I'll get there. Prior to the electric pump, by the time I would make my way up to do my burnout it was always at 200+. Gone with the mechanical pump and now the tank is heading to the same place.
I go into the water box at 140, launch at 160 and it heats up to about 180-190 thru the lights, the 205-210 on the return road back to the pits....if I go back to the staging lanes the Meziere and twin fans will.cool.it to 110 in about 5 minutes.
 
I will make sure to do that Mike. Thanks!
I have a 10 gal fuel cell and fill it to exactly 5 gal prior to each run so exactly the same weight every run. With the fuel cell empty I put in 5 gallons. I cut a yard stick in half, stuck in into the fuel cell and marked the stick exactly on 5 gallons. Interesting enuf I use 1 gal on each run...from the pits to the staging lanes, the run down the track and then back to my pit....1 gallon.
 
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