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Turn Signal hot all the time?!?

91r/t

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I have a 68 Charger where the turn signal circuit is hot all the time, even with the key off. My understanding is that power comes from the accessory circuit on the ignition to the flasher, then up through the column to the turn signal switch. Also it looks like there is a jumper coming over from the flasher circuit to it as well. I have the factory 68 service manual and that is how the power shows it is routed as far as I can tell. Everything works as it should, just has power to it all the time. I can't see how this will be horrible as the flasher circuit is hot all the time normally as well but I would like to fix it eventually. Any input on anything that can go screwy? i have power back at the plug under the column to the red wire all the time. This should only have power to it when the key is on correct? The only thing I did was take the steering wheel off the other day and cleaned the contacts on the switch, but me having power at the plug under the column eliminates it being something in the switch I would think. Unless I am missing something???
 
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You need to check the flashers itself. The power gets first the flasher then runs to the turning switch.

Turning lights flasher gets the power from acc source and emergency flasher comes from batt source. Check if the flashers plugs looks somehow modified or jumped
 
Plug looks fine on there. I will trace it back to the accessory source and see if its modified somewhere. The only thing else I can think of is a pinched wire in the column that's touching and feeding 12v to the turn circuit but that's highly unlikely. Going to look at the black wire from the flasher to the accessory circuit and see how that looks and if its been modified. If not, maybe the ignition switch itself is messed up internally and sending power to the accessory circuit still when in the off position.
 
Question...

You meant hot because works even with key in off or because they are not blinking when being activated?
 
They work when the key is off.....sorry if that was confusing. Yes hot like the circuit has power all the time and not only when the key is on like it is supposed to be.
 
Don't worry, maybe is my fault. English is not my mother language

Then the problem is before the flasher, not on column.
 
Yea it has to be between the flasher and the acc ignition power source as far as I can tell. I am going to follow that black wire from flasher to ignition accessory power and see what I find. Mainly wanted to confirm I wasn't nuts!
:lol:
 
Ok here's another question then.....if the accessory power prong on the ignition switch was indeed malfunctioning and staying hot all the time, wouldn't the accesorries also be live all the time? Looking at the diagram, it sends power to the fuse block from the ignition on one branch. If that is live all the time, the heater blower, etc. should also be live when the key is off I would assume???
 
I have a 68 Charger where the turn signal circuit is hot all the time, even with the key off. My understanding is that power comes from the accessory circuit on the ignition to the flasher, then up through the column to the turn signal switch. Also it looks like there is a jumper coming over from the flasher circuit to it as well. I have the factory 68 service manual and that is how the power shows it is routed as far as I can tell. Everything works as it should, just has power to it all the time. I can't see how this will be horrible as the flasher circuit is hot all the time normally as well but I would like to fix it eventually. Any input on anything that can go screwy? i have power back at the plug under the column to the red wire all the time. This should only have power to it when the key is on correct? The only thing I did was take the steering wheel off the other day and cleaned the contacts on the switch, but me having power at the plug under the column eliminates it being something in the switch I would think. Unless I am missing something???
I think that the feed to the flasher was rerouted to the fuse panel to a spot that has raw current continuously for some reason or another. It should be fused somewhere in the feed wire but who knows. Perhaps there is an issue with the ignition switch. Have you tried it in "Acc" position to find out exactly what works and what doesn't. You'd be wise to trace the feed from the flasher back to it's exact source. I have heard of some who connect the wrong bullet connectors to the wrong female connectors and others who use the lighter feed to power a host of accessories they add.
 
I think that the feed to the flasher was rerouted to the fuse panel to a spot that has raw current continuously for some reason or another. It should be fused somewhere in the feed wire but who knows. Perhaps there is an issue with the ignition switch. Have you tried it in "Acc" position to find out exactly what works and what doesn't. You'd be wise to trace the feed from the flasher back to it's exact source. I have heard of some who connect the wrong bullet connectors to the wrong female connectors and others who use the lighter feed to power a host of accessories they add.

I believe the flasher circuit runs through the radio circuit which is fused there. I don't see anywhere in the factory diagram where there is any additional fuses in the flasher circuit other than the radio in the fuse block.
 
Yup. Come to think of it......it has been turning over slow like it does when the timing is too advanced once in awhile. Timing is at 34 degrees total which isn't high at all. Starter and relay are both new so maybe the ignition is Fubar. I will take a peak and maybe that explains why its been cranking funny sparatically. Maybe there's a chance its shorting out or low voltage going to crank position because its sending power elsewhere during it.....Now I am going to have to dig tonight when I get home.
 
Car-0 Me-1..... I figured it out! After chasing wires and going rounds with my knuckles under the dash I figured it out. I chased power back to the fuse box an found my issue. The first two fuse holders (radio, backup & heat A/C) are keyed Acc power. The next is the rear defogger and acc of which my car doesn't have neither. The Buss bar for that 3rd fuse slot should be separate on the one side but its not. It is connected to the 4th and 5th fuses in my fuse holder via the buss bar. That 4th one is 12V hot for the Dome/Cigar Lighter. They had a jumper on the third one to the second one like factory but the buss bar was hot so it was feeding my heat and radio circuits 12V of power live all the time. See the pics to show what was different on my fuse holder. Maybe a repop? not sure why it'd be different from the Diagram but hey it's fixed!!! Yatzee that is what I was thinking and that is why I sniffed by the fuse holder. Thanks again for the extra ideas! Always good to bounce ideas off a few and reassure your on the right track!

bussbar.jpg
jumper.jpg
fuse.PNG
 
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