What Changes Do I Need To Make When Insdtalling A Larger Output Alternator?

[soundhd]

I have a 70 Roadrunner Convt (383/Auto?PS/PB/AC) Have added power windows and an aftermarket stereo system. Alternator has gone bad and have ordered a new 65 amp stock alternator (externally regulated). What all do I need to do (if anything) to safely use the larger alternator? Have been told I should cut and solder together the in and out wire to/from the amp gauge by-passing the gauge (I have an under dash aftermarket 3 gauge panel under the dash (volt/Oil pressure & Temp) so don't really need the amp gauge to work. Just wondering if there is anything else that needs to be done.

thanks

 

[terzmo]

If this applies..I went from a 60 amp to 100 amp and did nothing except with the 100...the regulator was inside the unit...hate to say it but it's a chrome GM alternator but it works and I don't care about that

 

[Glenwood]

I have a 70 Roadrunner Convt (383/Auto?PS/PB/AC) Have added power windows and an aftermarket stereo system. Alternator has gone bad and have ordered a new 65 amp stock alternator (externally regulated). What all do I need to do (if anything) to safely use the larger alternator? Have been told I should cut and solder together the in and out wire to/from the amp gauge by-passing the gauge (I have an under dash aftermarket 3 gauge panel under the dash (volt/Oil pressure & Temp) so don't really need the amp gauge to work. Just wondering if there is anything else that needs to be done.

thanks

A larger alternator will just be capable of handling a larger demand on current. If there are no increases on demand, nothing really changes. If there are additional power loads (eg. amplifiers, extra lighting, etc.), your wiring and connections may become stressed.
I think soldering the ammeter leads is overkill. If you want to bypass it, just connect all leads onto one post tightly and make sure each wire terminal is clean and shiny. It's a good time to take a close look at your bulkhead connections to make sure they are also clean. A little dielectric grease helps to keep out moisture in the future.
A fusible link is also a good idea, but your '70 may already have that.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html
sorry of some bad spelling there...

more here with some correctiongs made by a fellow

http://www.heritech.org/cuda/Charge.html

 

[Yatzee]

I have a 70 Roadrunner Convt (383/Auto?PS/PB/AC) Have added power windows and an aftermarket stereo system. Alternator has gone bad and have ordered a new 65 amp stock alternator (externally regulated). What all do I need to do (if anything) to safely use the larger alternator? Have been told I should cut and solder together the in and out wire to/from the amp gauge by-passing the gauge (I have an under dash aftermarket 3 gauge panel under the dash (volt/Oil pressure & Temp) so don't really need the amp gauge to work. Just wondering if there is anything else that needs to be done.

thanks

Generally speaking, an alternator upgrade is not going from a 65amp unit to another 65amp unit. While you were at it, you should have jumped to 100 amp alternator which, if your conscious of appearance, looks identical. And if you had installed a newer version, you could have gone "internally regulated" which again, looks identical to the original. Why? Better regulated output reduces voltage/amperage spikes and drops, the internal regulators are cheap and respond quickly, especially when adding other optional electrical equipment in the future. Not really much to change, but I do recommend under all circumstances that an 8ga wire run from the alt to the battery + terminal with a proper blade fuse somewhere in between. This can reduce the overall length of the charge wire by as much a four feet or more reducing resistance in that particular wire. I mean really, who wants the current to go all the way into the car (via the bulkhead connector) just to go back out (via the bulkhead connector) to the start relay and then to a starter battery terminal. It's just plain nonsense in today's world of cars.