What flywheel for a 440 build?

[wsutard]

I need to figure out what flywheel to use on my 440 build. Its going in a 69 Coronet with a 833 and 4:10 gears. The car will be 99% street driven. 500hp/tq.

Which one should I use, 11 or 10 1/2? I've read that a 10 1/2 is recommended for race applications. Seems to me I would want the 11" due to the additional clutch surface?

 

[wyrmrider]

what crank
watch your balance
cast. & 6 pack are ext balanced
some HP came with the heavier 6 pack rods (ask me how I know)
you can get a flywheel drilled and tapped for both
now ask the clutch question
I'd run a B&B Long combination soft engagement and counterweights for secure lock up
your trans, u joints and rear end will thank you
and only genuine spicer U joints- big yoke

 

[wsutard]

what crank
watch your balance
cast. & 6 pack are ext balanced
some HP came with the heavier 6 pack rods (ask me how I know)
you can get a flywheel drilled and tapped for both
now ask the clutch question
I'd run a B&B Long combination soft engagement and counterweights for secure lock up
your trans, u joints and rear end will thank you
and only genuine spicer U joints- big yoke

Forged Crank. Internally balanced. No clutch yet.

 

[Daves69]

From '79 but some relevant info...................
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/DC_ClutchTrans_Race_Bulletin.pdf

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Here's what I know.
1. MAKE SURE YOUR CRANKSHAFT IS DRILLED FOR THE PILOT BUSHING/BEARING
2. If your engine is internally balanced, then you need a balanced flywheel (no weights, etc.) which makes things easier for you.
3. You're correct, 11" clutch surface will hold better than a 10-1/2" surface. It used to be that your 11" high performance clutch options were limited, but I don't think that's true anymore.
4. There's "something" about a "scalloped" clutch... like it's almost 11" and fits the 10-1/2" clutch bolt pattern (not sure about that)
5. A flywheel that takes BOTH bolt patterns sounds like a good idea to me
6. The "consensus" on this board was to use a standard weight, steel flywheel and not an aluminum one. I asked this question on here before.
7. A Lakewood or Quick Time "scattershield" bellhousing is a good idea in my opinion. At least with Lakewood you can use EITHER flywheel size (not sure about QuickTime)
8. I really like my dual friction Centerforce clutch, though some here like the McCleod clutches. Hays clutches are junk now in my opinion (mine lasted 30 miles, they used to be better quality)

On a side note, 4.10's are A LOT of gear for a street car unless you have an overdrive transmission. I do not have overdrive and I'm pulling 4000+ rpm on the highway with 3.91's. Also, a rev limiter might be a good idea too.

 

[moparnation74]

Here's what I know.
1. MAKE SURE YOUR CRANKSHAFT IS DRILLED FOR THE PILOT BUSHING/BEARING
2. If your engine is internally balanced, then you need a balanced flywheel (no weights, etc.) which makes things easier for you.
3. You're correct, 11" clutch surface will hold better than a 10-1/2" surface. It used to be that your 11" high performance clutch options were limited, but I don't think that's true anymore.
4. There's "something" about a "scalloped" clutch... like it's almost 11" and fits the 10-1/2" clutch bolt pattern (not sure about that)
5. A flywheel that takes BOTH bolt patterns sounds like a good idea to me
6. The "consensus" on this board was to use a standard weight, steel flywheel and not an aluminum one. I asked this question on here before.
7. A Lakewood or Quick Time "scattershield" bellhousing is a good idea in my opinion. At least with Lakewood you can use EITHER flywheel size (not sure about QuickTime)
8. I really like my dual friction Centerforce clutch, though some here like the McCleod clutches. Hays clutches are junk now in my opinion (mine lasted 30 miles, they used to be better quality)

On a side note, 4.10's are A LOT of gear for a street car unless you have an overdrive transmission. I do not have overdrive and I'm pulling 4000+ rpm on the highway with 3.91's. Also, a rev limiter might be a good idea too.

The last point PB nailed it well.....4.10's on the street are not enjoyable for street driving...Hope the speed limit is 45 cruising....Now if your driving like you stole it from stoplight to stoplight well run the 4.10's....Best street gear for a dana is 3.54 no question...a 3.54 with a good overall setup and right tires and a good driver cant make it seem you have 4.10's....

You may also want to think about solid lifters if you already have not...4.10 gear miss a shift and wait for the noise.....

 

[Daves69]

4. There's "something" about a "scalloped" clutch... like it's almost 11" and fits the 10-1/2" clutch bolt pattern (not sure about that)

 

[moparedtn]

When I very recently put mine back together with a "new" engine and tranny, I leaned heavily on advice from folks here AND consultations with Brewer's.
Can't go wrong there.
This is not a race car, it's a street only ride with occasional beatings.
I have the 11" factory steel flywheel, 11" factory cast iron bellhousing and am running the Centerforce DualFriction clutch setup. Amazing clutch, that one - pedal effort is half what you're used to but this thing bites like crazy.
3.55 gears and SureGrip in my 8 3/4 and that's about all I can stand on the highway.

BTW, Brewer's has everything - and I mean everything - you'd ever need to put a manual trans setup together in our Mopars. That place is the best.

Good luck with it!

 

[OSDart]

I used a Ram billet 8 bolt fw and McCloud 10½" clutch. As long as you use quality parts and not constantly launching at 6000>rpm, I wouldn't use a scattershield. Now 7000-8000rpm, yeah. If they fit better and wasn't such a PITA, I'd like the security. With todays metal technology, clutch explosions are pretty much a thing of the past. I don't think the Hellcat or Demon use a scattershield.

 

[gkent]

The smaller clutch can use a smaller flywheel and bell ... not as tight of a fit around the firewall. Otherwise I doubt that size matters if using identical clutches ... they would both be designed to have the same force, etc.

 

[cj's mopar]

One thing you want to consider is header clearance , If have TTI headers and with 11 inch bell scatter shield it will need to be cut for clearance .
I went with brewers aluminum bell and 10.95 scalloped clutch behind 493 charger with custom comp cam solid roller , hemi 18 spline and 8&3/4 with 410 locker and moser 30 splines axles. with custom drive shaft .
Drive on street most of the time 99.9 % never got to track.
I run solid motor mount with a 5/8 in bolt on left side no problems .
oh yea run a M&H 345 /45 / 17 rear tire and not enough tire lol.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

I used a Ram billet 8 bolt fw and McCloud 10½" clutch. As long as you use quality parts and not constantly launching at 6000>rpm, I wouldn't use a scattershield. Now 7000-8000rpm, yeah. If they fit better and wasn't such a PITA, I'd like the security. With todays metal technology, clutch explosions are pretty much a thing of the past. I don't think the Hellcat or Demon use a scattershield.

Just a fyi, I had a clutch explosion about 2 years ago on the street, with no slicks (the Hays clutch I mentioned). It came apart so bad it destroyed the Lakewood scattershield & I had to buy another one....no joke. I dropped the clutch at about 3500-4000 rpm, pulled it hard into second gear and BOOM!

Also, I first went to a scattershield after I ran a factory aluminum bellhousing, put a 8" crack in it, TIG welded it, and cracked it again. I like my toes.

 

[wyrmrider]

If you run 3 solid mounts you will break something.

First death I saw was at the old San Gabriel drags.
Fathead altered coupe where the clutch let go off the line and the interior exploded.
How did that happen?
Well the driver had a moon tank on the right floorboard where he could reach the hand pump.
He came bailing out of the car you could see the pack of smokes rolled up in the sleeve of his t shirt but he had burnt up his lungs, grabbed his throat and fell over unable to breathe,
They banned that tank in the car practice
Took a few more accidents to require scatter shields.
Later rules came along to route fuel lines outside the frame rails or armor them in the clutch area.
Seems like someone had to die to get new rules