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Who's upgrading?

I am still fighting the clearance issue I had the motor in 3 times an have clearance issues with my tie rod and the pan. When engine is in I have a 3 degree slope and I can't lower the front fur to the tie rod. I raised the rear of the trans but my blanket is so tight it won't move much
Suggestions ????
Can you possibly fabricate a steel or aluminum "extension" to the bottom of each ear of the motor plate which would actually "raise" the motor by the amount of the "fabricated extension" that you bolted to the bottom of each ear of the motor plate...??
But I guess that might change the drive shaft angle too much ....by raising the front of the motor ?? Don't know how critical that is.
Best way I guess would be to get a pan that would accommodate the tie rod...but that might be hard to come up with. You might call Milodon and Moroso and see if they have a pan that would solve the problem.
My Oil pan hit my tie rod by just a little bit....so I took a steel pipe a little bit bigger that the tie rod, laid it on the pan, heated up the pan and tapped on the steel pipe and "indented the pan" by about 3/8" of an inch, enuf to clear the tie rod but not too much where it interfered with the pickup in the pan.
 
I am still fighting the clearance issue I had the motor in 3 times an have clearance issues with my tie rod and the pan. When engine is in I have a 3 degree slope and I can't lower the front fur to the tie rod. I raised the rear of the trans but my blanket is so tight it won't move much
Suggestions ????
I have an expensive solution if you like.
Gerstsuspensions.com
 
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Modified the steering /motor mount to accomadate my external Indy Maxx pump. Getting it ready for paint
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Space the K-frame down from the frame rails. While you're at it wack the center out. You'll be happy you did. I cut and welded my sons 62 while still in the car.
Doug

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All my cars have the k-frame spaced 1-2" down. Mine are notched as well, but I left the hemi-mounts on the "K". It drives the numbers-guys, nuts.
 
I am still fighting the clearance issue I had the motor in 3 times an have clearance issues with my tie rod and the pan. When engine is in I have a 3 degree slope and I can't lower the front fur to the tie rod. I raised the rear of the trans but my blanket is so tight it won't move much
Suggestions ????
I used 1/2 inch square tube to raise my engine for centerlink clearence.

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Winter is quickly passing and I am still waiting for parts from summit (trans shield) still wont ship till 2/3 but, in the meantime I setup my throttle linkage and return springs. Here are a few pics. IMG_06111.JPG
 
I wish I could upgrade but I am just not in a position to do any upgrades for years. I really want to go to a Dana and pull my trans to upgrade the front drum as they are two reasons I dont race much. So my car will pretty much stay the same for years which is fine with me as I am very happy with it but as a gear head we all have that urge to want to go faster sometimes. Right now I need to get new rear tires as I have been driving on my Hoosier radial slicks for about 5 years and they are about wore out. I do plan to drive my car alot this year to local cruises and some shows. But I dont like to drive to the track in my car unless I plan to race it as I always have that urge to race when I go to the track. Good luck to everyone with their winter upgrades. Ron
 
I wish I could upgrade but I am just not in a position to do any upgrades for years. I really want to go to a Dana and pull my trans to upgrade the front drum as they are two reasons I dont race much. So my car will pretty much stay the same for years which is fine with me as I am very happy with it but as a gear head we all have that urge to want to go faster sometimes. Right now I need to get new rear tires as I have been driving on my Hoosier radial slicks for about 5 years and they are about wore out. I do plan to drive my car alot this year to local cruises and some shows. But I dont like to drive to the track in my car unless I plan to race it as I always have that urge to race when I go to the track. Good luck to everyone with their winter upgrades. Ron
Be careful what you wish for. Enjoy what you have. It sounds like a nice ride.
 
Finally moving forward. ready to install my shield to meet safety requirements. This part took a month to get.

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You might have to massage the pinch weld between the floor/trans tunnel and firewall.
I am going to cut out the tunnel and fab sa new one something that will make it easy to remove from the top.
 
I like that idea,do you have a plan?I'd like to do a belly pan after the fabricated oil pan also.
Plan I have no stinkin plan (LOL) actually I do but venturing into the unknown a bit. I just feel its the best way to install this shield since it's so tight and nearly impossible just to get it into position without removeing nearly everything. Since the motor is out its the perfect time to venture into this area. Belly Pan well I did a pan unter the engine but, I needed to take a second look since it didn't work that well when loading and unloading it from my trailer. So at the moment I don't have a good plan for that.
 
I used 1/2 inch square tube to raise my engine for centerlink clearence.

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I am now in the process of lowering the engine back down.The aluminum heads that will be used have a .750 raised exhaust port.While the engine is out the "K" will be made to duplicate DVWs work of art.
Will also have an aluminum pan fabricated.

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